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changed brakes and hand brake lines but gets stuck

dreaming mechanic

Enthusiast
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73
Location
France
hey
i am just doing what need doing for the controle technique . the front brake shoes and hand brake lines need changing so i changed them all them tried to adjust the shoes but i adjusted them from side to side but they are stil stiff but when i put the wheel on at an angle it goes fine . what does anyone think ?
thank you
Toby
 
Hi

If you have adjusted the brake shoes up correctly and I am assuming the handbrake is on the front wheels as you mention they free up when the wheels are at angle, I would look at the handbrake adjustment under the bonnet, you have three small adjustments on the hooked lever (try there first it might be the only adjustment you need to free up the wheels) and you have three more( larger adjustments) where the two handbrake cables are connected to the half moon bracket, there is a clevis pin with a split pin which needs to b removed and re-positioned. This could be your problem as you have fitted new shoes and cables.
 
hey thank you very much for your reply .did that this morning it helped but when i put the wheels back it slids over the shoes fine its just when it gets to the end that it gets stuck . what's the best way to adjust them?
are there any other adjustments for the hand brake ? would it be that the half moon isn't straight so the other is longer ? because both the hand brake levers on the shoes pulled out a bit
thank you
 
Hi

Adjust the brake shoes first. If the brake drums bind, you have over adjusted the brake shoes. Release the adjusters to the point where the brake drums just become free. If you have the ratchet type adjustment whereby you adjust with the drum off, release a couple of notches at a time and offer up the drum on each occasion, as soon as the drum can be spun freely you are good to go. If you have the square headed adjusters on the exterior of the back plate, Lock them one at a time by adjusting them in a downward direction with a brake spanner. Then slowly release them by turning the spanner in the other direction. As soon as the drum just releases, the adjustment is correct. Then adjust the other adjuster in the same way. Once you have adjusted both drums. Check the handbrake, when the handbrake is applied the drums should lock ( as a rule of thumb, six clicks is about right, as you gently pull up the handbrake, count the clicks). When released the drums should unlock. If the drums lock and unlock correctly when the handbrake is applied/released and the handbrake travel is about six clicks. You do not need to make any adjustments to the handbrake. If you need to adjust the handbrake, first start off with the small adjustment which can be made by moving one hole up or down on the handbrake hooked lever. If you have fitted new shoes and handbrake cables the first hole should be ok. If you still have issues you may need to make a larger adjustment from the half moon by removing the clevis pin and slotting it in the first hole.
 
hey
i think it might be the bottom springs for the brakes that are a bit bent so they are too long . just to be sure what is the lenght the the front bottom springs on the shoes ?
thank you very much
 
Hi

I do not know the exact length of the springs. However, a quick visual check will indicate whether they have lost their tension or not. The springs will look stretched. If you grab the bottom of the shoes by hand and there is movement , there is a problem. If the clips/hooked springs which hold the shoes in place
 
are stretched the shoes will not centralise easily. With new hooked springs/ clips the shoes should pretty much centralise themselves.
 
hey
i was checking the brake shoes and the bottom spring is lose but when i changed the spring with the other drum and it wasn't lose . then i tried to adjust the shoes bit at a time to see if the drum will loosen up but it didn't . a mechanic told me that you tap the drum with a hammer to centralise it .
should i get new springs ? were are the cheapest ones ?
we got 200mm x 35mm shoes for a renault 4l tl r1126 1978
is that right ?
thank you very much
 
Hi

You can tap the drum with a hammer to centralize the shoes. You can also tap the drum with a hammer to loosen it. It is good practice to change the springs. Bear in mind your old ones might be 30-40 years old. If you are in France, try Melun Retro Passion or Vehicles Anciens to see if they sell a brake fitting kit. Do your shoes match your old ones in size? Easiest way to check is to do a visual comparison. Two sizes of shoes were fitted to the R4s.
 
i think they are the same . i think i got them centralised .
but it is still getting stuck . so should i get new springs for it ?or can i rewind the springs ?
thank you for your reply
 
hey
i am just doing what need doing for the controle technique . the front brake shoes and hand brake lines need changing so i changed them all them tried to adjust the shoes but i adjusted them from side to side but they are stil stiff but when i put the wheel on at an angle it goes fine . what does anyone think ?
thank you
Toby
Bonjour,
Ce site donne beaucoup d'informations sur la Quatrelle.
Sous la rubrique freinage il y a beaucoup d'informations sur les différents systèmes (DBA Bendix ou Girling-Lucas) et les freins à tambour ou à disque.

(Hello,
This site gives a lot of information about the Renault R4.
Under the braking section there is a lot of information about the different systems (DBA Bendix or Girling-Lucas) and drum or disc brakes.)

 
hey
whats is parts on the photo? on the controle technic that it needs welding but it looks like a separte part but i can't find it on the internet .and it looks glued on ?
controle technic goes off next week .
thank you

mini-using-jack96.jpg
 
Those are the reinforcement plates for the strongpoint of the rear seatbelt mountings.
Take a look at this link (https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/r4-gtl-1985-restoration.8252/page-11#post-77064) to see how it can be welded or replaced by new parts available at Der Fanzose
 
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