Chassis ventilation

[Richard Williams]

Whilst gazing into the newly opened box section of my chassis ,recovering from several hours on the wrong end of a spot weld drill; it is not unnatural to concentrate the mind on how this job may be avoided for a while. I am sure internal treatment with the old Waxoil would be recommended by many but has anyone investigated whether the ventilation of the chassis may be improved with some modification? I have worked out that if the central box section is isolated ( this is vented from inside the car anyway through opening of the torsion bar adjuster mount .. Now any air introduced somewhere near the front bumper into the chassis will filter through the chassis and out of the rear "legs"
I fondly imagine parking up and connecting a hot air supply (hair dryer on a timer) and walking away knowing that all my hard work will be protected-!!
Any milage? or is all this drilling affected my mind too!

 

[entwistlecymru]

You could run an air supply off the bottom vents of the heater and through the round plug in the slopy bit of the front chassis. The warm air should travel through the front and side box sections.

If you manage to get warm air flowing through all box sections you could leave the bungs out to get front and rear footwell ventilation! Make sure the chassis isn't open to the elements as you get a hell of a draft through the bung holes when there's a hole on the road side of the box section

Seeing as your chassis will be upside down while replacing the floor, you can coat the top and side of all the cavities while it's there. I used Bilt Hamber Dynax which leeches through the tiniest of nooks and crannies and is supposed to last forever. Apparently.

 

[Deano]

Remember, warm air + cold metal = condensation

 

[reidalpine]

Hi Richard! I've had the same thought too-I drilled two holes in each box-sections Front one some 30cm from front and rear one 20cm on front of end.I slightly bent the frontpart of each holes downward and inserted a rubbergrommet-thingy with a ridge on it to hold it in place and glued another rubberhose into the hole,I positioned it so the hose points rearward so no splash would enter also I used a slightly larger diameter hole/grommet/hose at rear to make an "underpressure" or pivot-effect that will SUCK through the front hole and boxsection.Seems to work fine -I used my endoscope to have a look inside and it is completely dry and clean.
Whilst I was at it I cut a long lenght of stranded wire-bent strands back (10cm long) and put a plastic hose over them then inserted this tool into the 2 small holes at rear of boxsection-pulled back the plastichose so the strands woulkd pop out then mounted other end into my powerdrill-used the plastic-hose to steady it and pushed and pulled the wire-tool in and out to crush and remove that dreadful builders-foam they used in there.Used a vacuumcleaner to suck all (now crushed) foam out the end-hole..
As you guessed I did this without removing or open-up the sections.
I swear at gun-or weapon-oil as you can warm it (in hot-water)and it will creep UP and into all nooks and crannies-Is acid-free and won't dry out-any exess you just wipe off with a rug.
Other option is to use vaceline-oil which is acid/smell/-free this should be available at the Chemist (drug-store)for a nominal sum.

Wish you all a rust-free time! -R.

 

[malcolm]

Great creative thinking there.

I'm a great believer in venting. I tend to drill a lot of 10mm holes in the underneath of all the chassis box sections reasoning any water in there can drain out, and a bit of air will blow through when driving to dry everything out.

reidalpine's comment about oil is a good one. I've still got the MGA with new sills I fitted 15 years ago. Those sills are now rusting in the seams despite a thorough waxoyl with a proper pro gun. Same for Ermintrude - needs a patch at the corner of a floor panel where the seam has gone after 3 years. I don't think waxoyl protects seams very well, and that'd where cars rust.

Didn't know you could get odourless oil! I'll look around for some to use in the Gordini. Sounds perfect.

 

[reidalpine]

Hi Malc! This vaceline-oil is fantastic.as you say totally odourless and see-through-I even gave all of inside Floor-sides-even roof a good coating then viped off exess with a tovel after an hour or so,it is not sticky,but has left a very thin clear layer and crept in-between seams.
As you,I'm Not a fan of Vaxoyl/Tectyl/Dinitrol or whatever they call it-this thick Heavy stuff tends to come off the panel after a while and leave an "airbubble" where humidity will make a breeding-ground for Swedish Crome (ie:Rust)-from outside it still looks intact so too often when you discover the rust underneath it is very advanced..
Also worth trying is to get some Zink-anodes (offer-anodes) as used on boats and ships.These comes in a variety of sizes/shapes and screws directly on to the body/frame/traverse-No wires or other work involved! Just screw them on where you like(undernesth body)
Seeing as you guys in GB has the same kind of weather as we have here in Norway with rain/sleath/snow the zink-anode will have enough humidity to work perfectly as an offer-anode and will slowly
be dissolved-INSTEAD of the body/frame-parts on your beloved R4.
-They cost a bob or three-Lasts 2-3 years.Just remember to scrape off all paint between anode and where you mount it To get good galvanic connection.-Also use steel-screws or bolts to get Best contact-Good idea to re-tighten these when you're under there anyway.. -R.