Cylinder liner sealing rings failure on 956 engine

[Leonardo.IT]

Hello everybody!
I have to deal with an engine who has a leak of fluid from the bottom of the liners, and I'm here to ask for advice.
If I'll replace the rings (and all the other sealings) without grinding the engine block, can it work? Can it work WELL?
Or I'll have to take it to a workshop to control the block?

I hope I've been clear, thank you for your attention

Leonardo

 

[mojobaby]

Hi Leonardo, if you have a leak from the bottom of the liners, it means that the liner seal under one or more liners have broken. They are very thin paper seals. The coolant (anti-freeze) in your engine then leaks down past the seals into your oil sump, so your oil will be a milky colour. Have you noticed that?
Changing the rings won't make any difference.
To put new liner seals in, the cylinder head has to be removed and then the pistons and liners. Its best to take the engine out for this job
I'm busy doing that right now in my garage. You can look at my project to see the liner seals.
http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/look-what-i-found.5611/

 

[Azazello]

I can suggest you to go with a sheet of glass and thin sandpaper... It worked on my air compressor head!

 

[mr-reno-139]

Language translation could mean may be the paper seals are being called sealing rings
I have definitely cured liner seals leaking coolant into sump by using a Holts product called wonderweld designed for cracked blocks it won't work on failed head gaskets on cooling systems that are pressurising
It is worth trying if you have neither ability or money to do it correctly
You will know it worked when the engine oil remains normal and not milky
Obviously the oil will need changing after treatment

 

[Leonardo.IT]

Thank you!
mr-reno-139 is right, I mistranslated the paper seal because I saw them as paper seal "rings".
The engine on which I'm going to work isn't in the car, I bought it as running but with an head gasket failure to replace mine, but disassembling it the head and his gasket were good and in the sump there was the oil and a lot of coolant...
So the failure must be at the paper seals.
I'm asking for advice because I obviously can send the engine to a workshop, but if I can only replace the paper seal I could save a lot of money! The engine is good, low mileage with clean piston and liners.
If I only replace the paper seals it would work well?

 

[Leonardo.IT]

Here it is the engine

 

[mr-reno-139]

You realise you will have to remove sump and oil pump to access the big end nuts on con rod this operation must be done carefully with all parts marked with paint marks to ensure correct reassembly which would cause terminal failure if not correct the pistons and liners can be removed complete and then all parts can be carefully cleaned
Refer to manual for more details on tightening settings and setting Liner heights and measuring protrusions
Do not change order of pistons as this only apply using new parts
I always used to use thickest seals but check the liners aren't too high
Be aware that without knowing exact history of you r engine it is possible the gasket was replaced badly and seals disturbed or head is distorted and not sorted previously so check it is flat have it minimal skimmed if any doubt
good luck