engine removal

[nicky4tl]

Hi,
I want to take out the engine and gearbox from my 1983 tl (845cc). (body already removed from chassis, friend has a hoist I can borrow). The haynes manual has me pretty confused about how to get out the drive shafts indicating I must be particularly careful not to disconnect the "inner joint" and use some combination of strong electrical wire and worm drive clips to retain something. Any clarification on this would be great.
I also read that I must undo the upper balljoint and it recommends a splitter. Is this necessary?
If anyone had any recommendations on how to approach this task I'd love to hear them. Will I need to buy new balljoints?
thanks
N

 

[corky]

Hi, nicky
first drain the gearbox oil as it will pour out as you take out the shafts, and yes you will have to undo the top and bottom ball joints. The inner joint can be damaged on the way in but not on the way out.

 

[angel]

Haynes advice is for pre-1973 driveshafts, therefore they do not apply to your R4.
The driveshaft inner joints are free to move in the gearbox, a spring keeping the inner joint always extended.

With this type of driveshaft, a second type of special tool was in use (to compress the spring loaded inner joint) but it is by no means essential. However you may find that it will be necessary to disconnect both uppere and lower balljoints to enable the driveshaft to be removed. The use of a ball joint splitter is not always necessary, but if the "two hammers" method fails, you must use a ball joint splitter. And no, you won't need new ball joints, what you "split" is the ball joint taper from the corresponding one on the sub axle carrier.

 

[benchseat]

I've tried both the hammer and the splitter method and the latter is vastly preferable. Using hammers, or a pronged splitter plus a hammer, is very awkward work and risks puncturing the rubber seals on the balljoints.
You want a good quality splitter, with screw adjustment for the two arms and a threaded shaft + captive nut for application. There is one illustrated (Sykes-Pickavant Ball Joint Separator) on the ShackTools.com website (code 66055200) for £31.20. Sounds a lot but it always works even on the toughest seized joints and will save you an infinity of sweating and swearing. You may be able to find a cheaper equivalent by Googling.

 

[nicky4tl]

Hi,
Thanks everyone for that. Much clearer now. I'll find a splitter (think I can borrow one). I just had a look at the balljoints. They aren't riveted on so must have been replaced at some stage. They do however all have perished and split rubber bits so I guess replacing them is probably wise.
Nick

 

[renoir cigar]

this is interesting, this is the dilemma I am facing with my 65 R4. Aha! The manual says only loosen off top ball joint though.

Steven

 

[alewis]

I found it only nessasary to remove the steering ball joint and the top one (Did it last week )