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Fan/Alternator Belt replacement - R1126

autocrisp

Enthusiast
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5
Hello all,

Sorry in advance for any 'elementary' questions, my mechanical knowledge is limited but getting slowly better.

I have a Renault 4 TL from 1982. Type R1126. It is time to change the belts and wondered if anyone knew exactly how to do this as the Haynes manual isnt very explicite nor have I found any good advice on the internet.

From what it appears, the fan/alternator belt is a lot easier to get to than the second belt (drive belt?) which I presume drives the fan and the alternator belt.

Does one have to remove the radiator to change these two belts? I don't see how this can be done otherwise. Can I just move the radiator forward a few centimetres to get the two belts out (So the belt can slide in between the connection from the engine to the fan)? Seems a bit overkill to drain the radiator and remove it entirely just ot change the belts!

It doesnt appear as though the two belts are the same size. Is this true? I currently have 2 replacement belts of this model GATES Courroie trapézoïdale - 6280MC (AVX10 x 688La) which on analysis seems to correspond to the alternator belt which seems slightly larger than the drive belt.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated and thanks!!
 
You don´t need to remove the radiator. You should pull the belt over the single fan blades step by step, while you turn the fan. There are two different belt sizes on the 845 cc, I´ll check tomorrow, what I have there.
 
Re:

Hi Pavel,

Cheers for the response. It would have taken a lot longer than the 5 mins I spent analysing the situation to figure that out!! Genius.

It would be greatly appreciated if you could tell me the sizes of the belts!

Thanks in advance.
 
It might be an idea to loosen the two nuts securing the radiator to the steering rack and removing the support arms either side of the rad. This will allow the rad to be tilted forward slightly. This should give you more room to work with and reduce the risk of damaging the radiator matrix
Best of luck
Ailbe
 
Hi there, so I checked the belts on my R4 845 cc, as I promised. There are used the sizes as follows:
1. the front belt (alternator - water pump) AVX 10x685, but it should be a little bit longer (5-10mm). Thereby is my alternator suspended quite high and near to the heating hose.
2. the rear belt (water pump - crank-shaft) AVX 10x666.
Regards Pavel
 
Re:

Pavel and Ailbek thank you very much for your advice!!!

I shall take pictures when I do this and try and post a step by step on how to do this so others can learn too!

Happy 4L'ing all
 
Hi I need help with the belt sizes! The water pump/crankshaft belt shredded. I was supplied with a 10x625, but it dosnt fit!! The alternator belt is size 10x635. These sizes dont correspond to the replies given. Can anybody help?
The car is a gtl clan
 
The GTL from 1978 - 1990 used 625 for the alternator and 666 for the water pump. Engine codes C1E719, 688712, C1E714.

Suggest you measure your broken belt as eg 666 refers to the length.
 
Make sure the tensioner isn't seized before replacing, I've had a couple seize up and it can rip a belt to shreds in double quick time!
 
I ordered both belts from Renault and they arrived in a few days.The price however was horrendous.
Gary
 
Make sure the tensioner isn't seized before replacing, I've had a couple seize up and it can rip a belt to shreds in double quick time!

Hello again,
Can we assume this may be a common occurrence?
My current GTL that I drove back from Portugal in April appears to suffer a similar fate. 2400 road kilometres. Never missed a beat & 56mpg. Put it my garage until today. Went for a drive. Once the engine warmed-up, there was a muted scream from under the bonnet. That's the best way I can describe it. I was looking for somewhere that was allowing air to be drawn in eg. a broken jubilee clip-air duct to air filter.
However, my talented son spotted a very slight throw on the tensioner pulley. I'll remove that tomorrow and take it from there. The car shows under 112000 kms
N.
 
They're a standard bearing in them so are easy to fix or replace.
 
They're a standard bearing in them so are easy to fix or replace.
Thanks for that.
It was the proverbial "stitch-in-time" in this instance.
Sourced the bearing, circlips & new belt all under one roof. Clydach Bearings. Tenner the lot.
Will carry spare(s) in future.
N.
 
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