Front Brake Binding Problem

[beagle]

Hi gang,

My front disc brakes are (still) binding.

I’ve searched previous posts and it appears I may need to change the calliper piston seals. Before I take the callipers off (for the 3rd time) I want to check I haven’t missed anything….

Background to this sorry story…

My front brakes were binding badly (struggled to get out of 1st gear on the flat). So I thought it was a good time to change the old front discs and the pads.

After much persuasion I eventually got the discs off as per “tech tips”. I cleaned up all surfaces which the pad touches. Thoroughly cleaned the 2 sliding pins. And used copper grease etc.

The callipers needed to be pushed in using a g-clamp and a bit of wood. They were quite tight but not stuck.

I refitted and re-bled the system. Now the binding isn’t as bad but after a mile or so there is a hot brake smell. If you jack up the front the wheels still turn by hand, but there is significant resistance. If you wait 5 min it is back to normal. The rears are fine.

Is it normal to have both binding?

Are the Lucas rebuild kits on Der Franzose suitable for Girling?
http://www.franzose.de/en/Renault/R4...ttel/ANR84130/


Can anyone think of anything I have overlooked?

Many thanks for reading this far.

 

[alewis]

Question !

I had a similar problem on a car with power brakes and the problem was the brake fluid had caused the flexible pipes to close up. (So fluid would get too the brakes but not back from them)

When it locks on again try opening the bleed nipple on the caliper in question see if that releases them.

Regards,
Andrew

 

[Steve Hennessey]

Question !

I had a similar problem on a car with power brakes and the problem was the brake fluid had caused the flexible pipes to close up. (So fluid would get too the brakes but not back from them)

When it locks on again try opening the bleed nipple on the caliper in question see if that releases them.

Regards,
Andrew

Yes - good answer. I have seen this too. There could also be a problem with the master cylinder - I have seen the little feed hole blocked with swarf so the fliud only goes one way and won't return to the reservior.

 

[beagle]

Sounds like some good ideas. Unfortunatly I won't be back with the car till Christmas. As both brakes are binding does this make Steve's suggestion more likely?

 

[pepper]

I reckon it's the poor old calipers that are seizing up slightly. I've had calipers resleeved in the past with stainless steel liners, they made a massive difference. I can see if I can find the details for you.

 

[alewis]

Is it seal on piston or seal in caliper ?

I just finished rebuilding some girling ones (not R4) which were seal in caliper, new pistons and new seals worked well on those.

 

[politeperson]

Almost certainly the flexipipes, I would change all 4.

 

[beagle]

Good idea with the flexi pipes, however, I've changed all 4 as they looks ropey.

I'm away till Christmas, but will try these ideas when I'm back.

Thanks a lot

 

[barnfind]

Something else to consider is the adjustment of the brake pushrod on the pedal. If set too long it can stop the master cylinder pistons coming to rest and allowing the fluid to recuperate when you take your foot off the pedal. The system then becomes progressively more pressurised with every push of the pedal and the pads/shoes stay engaged with the wheel. The brake limiter might well prevent this happening at the rear and concentrate the effect at the front.