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Front end overhaul

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iancr900

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I'm just about to start a front end overhaul which will include the renewal of all of the ball joints,brake pipes,shocks and rubber boots.Is there anything I should do/not do?Any tips would be much appreciated.
I'm going to try all of the methods of the previous post on my ball joints.What does a scissor splitter look like?
 
Ill be following this with interest. Ive just completed an overhaul of the rear of my car, and will be taking the front end to bits this spring too...

A 'scissor type' joint splitter will be something allong these lines...
ball_joint_spliter.jpg


Any tips you can offer when your done on removing the preload on the torsion bars will be gratefully recieved, this is the bit thats worrying me before i start.
 
No need to do any difficult torsion bar unloading unless you need to remove the torsion bar from the chassis under the seats.

For dismantling the suspension trick is remove the centre cap on the sheel and loosen the driveshaft nut. Then jack the car up and support it on axle stands. Brake caliper off first, then support the lower arm wiwth a jack, split the upper ball joint and steering arm balljoints, then lower the lower arm down on the jack. Then pull the driveshaft out (will need an oil tray under the gearbox as oil will fall out). There will be no pin holding the driveshaft in unless the car is pre-73 ish, then undo the lower balljoint.
 
One thing thats always got me is... What holds the pinion gears in place in the diff when you have pulled the driveshaft out?

Is there any rish of the 'core' of the diff coming to bits?
 
It's not the driveshafts that hold the diff together. Not sure what does, but I'm guessing they have some bearings in there holding them together.
 
Thats ok then, im just familiar with the Diff in my Ford Sierra... take the output flanges out of the diff and it all comes to pieces if your not careful... But then it had bolt on driveshafts so you dont need to.
 
malcolm said:
It's not the driveshafts that hold the diff together. Not sure what does, but I'm guessing they have some bearings in there holding them together.
Click to expand...

There are two large taper roller bearings and a pair of threaded rings that keeps everything in place. So pull the shafts out at your hearts content!!
 
I see that I'd better look at a manual before I start taking it to bits because I don't understand anything thats being said.
f4e7_1.jpg

I paid £15 for these de carbon shocks, is that a good deal?What does "de carbon" mean?
 
Thanks for the photo SteveC,you confirmed what I thought. I looked at one in Halfords today,but at £16 it seemed a bit steep?I shall look elsewhere.
 
deCarbon is a shock absorber brand (and they surely are not deCarbon! they are Girling...)
The large taper roller bearings and threaded rings hold the differential carrier. The differential planets are located in bores in this carrier, so they cannot fall off when you remove the driveshafts.
You will need to remove the torsion bars if you plan to replace the lower wishbone bush (or the wishbone itself).
 
The shocks have de carbon printed on the side of them.
Just did a quick google and found this.

High pressure gas monotube.
Patented by Christian Bourcier de Carbon in 1953.

Christian Bourcier de Carbon founded the De Carbon company in the same year 1953 when he invented the monotube high pressure gas shock absorber. Soon after a license was sold to Bilstein in Germany. Now that the patent has expired also other companies such as Koni use the monotube technology for their top range.

I guess the de carbon printed on my girling's is an acknowledgement of the inventors monotube design
 
iancr900 said:
I guess the de carbon printed on my girling's is an acknowledgement of the inventors monotube design
Click to expand...


Maybe that's it, because they look quite different form original de Carbons (they were something like upside-downs). Anyway, gas pressure shocks are always good...had never experience with Girling ones though, so I am waiting for your comments if you put them on your R4.
 
Bought a seeley scissor splitter.It worked ok on the top two balljoints but didn't win the battle with the lower one.

27203706.jpg


I will replace the mild steel pin with a high tensile bolt and try again.
 
I have never used a splitter in my 20 odd years in the motor trade!! I can see their use but next time just exert a reasonable amount of tension on the tool and then use a hammer and drift on the lower arm and it should come apart.
 
I managed to get it off with a pronged splitter and a club hammer and brute force.It was the original balljoint which had been on there for 25 years(and cold welded),there's no way it was going to come off with a few gentle taps.
I'm going to try a blowlamp on the other side.

27203424.jpg


The original shocks have the plunger at the other end,does it matter?
 
Steve Hennessey said:
I have never used a splitter in my 20 odd years in the motor trade!! I can see their use but next time just exert a reasonable amount of tension on the tool and then use a hammer and drift on the lower arm and it should come apart.
Click to expand...


Steve Hennessey said:
Malcolm, you'll find you have another splitter in your toolbox - it's called a hammer!!!!!!!!

I have only ever used a hammer, wedge type splitter and a hammer, and a hammer and 1" thick, 10" long copper drift (for those difficult to reach joints with just the hammer only)!

Steve
Click to expand...

Do you mean that it's just the scissor type of splitter that you've never used?
 
No problem if the damper is the other way around from the original (so long as it is sold as a Renault 4 damper). Aftermarket dampers don't follow the original design.

Steve has a magic method for splitting balljoints. It's an accepted method - often using a weight behind the casting to react the happer force. Springs the casting a bit and the balljoint frees up or pops out. But I've never managed it myself, and am happy enough with the scissor type splitter (and sometimes heat and a bit of a hammer for the really bad ones).
 
Maybe I need to set up mobile training sessions!! I do have a wedge to use if I'm lazy and only use it for replacement as it tears the rubber. I am often called a luddite and I'm quite happy - maybe I'll graduate to a scissors spilitter on retirement :)
 
....same as my method except that I use only one hammer. I sometimes use a bar to lever the wishbone at the same time - just depends. I have never resorted to hitting the threaded part of the taper.
 
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