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Fuel tank problems!

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Viking4

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I know this is a common problem, rust in the fuel tank. Mine do also have this problems... But can anyone tell me how to remove it? I know it is a 13mm bolt under the back seat, but where is the other bolts? Do anyone have pics of it/how to do?
 
Hi, and welcome to the forum, there are two other self tapping bolts (10mm i think ) that screw through the spare
wheel carrier, but i unscrew the spare wheel carrier its self which i find easier and has 4 bolts through the side into the rear chassis legs,
i hope that's understandable ?
 
Yes, that's true, you have to remove the spare wheel and its carrier from the car to have full access to the 3 bolts retaining the fuel tank.
I had your same problems, a bit more fiddly because I have the lpg tank in place of the spare wheel...
Tankerite healed my tank.
Good luck!
 
Are you sure you need to replace the tank completely.

I have installed a small fuel filter in the fuel line between pump and carburettor

and can I suggest you buy 6 strong magnets and stick them onto the fuel tank underneath.

This will attract all the bits inside the fuel tank, to the magnets , on the outside,.....simple, cheap.
 
Yes, I am pretty sure I have to restore the fueltank, because it does not help with the extra filter before the carburettor!
This is my first R4, and i dont know so much about it yet, since I do not have had any time to fix on it yet, I have only drove it so far. It has a unrestored rat-look. but mechanically its close to ok :p
So, i have to remove te spare wheel and spare wheel carrier, than there will be 3 bolts? And the last bolt is placed on the floor under the back seat? I have to fold it forward, i do not have to remove the seat? (Sorry, the car is placed many miles from here right now)
 
In my car I had no need to work inside the car - all three bolts came working under the car.
 
For removing fuel tank from the car you need to loosen bracket that holds spear wheel, and than loosen three bolt from under the car.
 
The famous bolt under the rear seat is very special because it has two offices: he fits the body on chassis and in the same time, it fixes the tank on the chassis. It's a very long bolt (almost 20/25 cm) and it has a nut under the car, this is the reason why you must have someone with you to remove the bolt and nut simultaneously ;)
 
Just had to take mine out as the fuel pipe from the sender unit split and its above the tank.

Remove the rear wheel next to the filler pipe and support the car on stands.

Remove the clip on the filler neck and loosen the joint, also disconnect the breather pipe.

Then remove the two bolts (18mm)for the spare wheel bracket/hanger, then remove 4 (11mm) bolts on the crossmember that the tank sits on , then the one in the boot floor was 13mm and you need a long reach socket for that one underneath the car.

Remove the crossmember from the tank with 3 bolts.

I also had to remove the mud flap on that side of the car to allow the filler neck to slide back when you lift the tank over the roll bars.

When the tank moves back disconnect the wire to the sender unit and the fuel line before you remove the tank.

I tried to use the drain plug to empty the fuel ( an allen key ) but it sheared off and now and I need to get the drain plug (alluminium with a steel plug !! ) soldered back into the bottom of the tank:( All that work for a fuel pipe :mad:

Now I just have to put it all back together again tomorrow:confused:
 
Great, thanks all. Tank out and sender unit not moving fuel guague when i raise float. I have a multimeter, but only know how to measure ac/dc. Any advise appreciated.
 
Best advice having gone that far is to switch ignition on and have an assistant sit in car and watch needle
If you touch the push on terminal to a non rusty tricky metal part of the chassis or body the gauge should go to top
If it doesn't investigating sender is not going to help
There is a join in the wiring harness at the back non filler side which is where I would of looked first and indeed testing can be done from this point but ive only just seen your post
If you separate this connection make sure it is not corroded by fitting fresh terminals if necessary
Taking sender out of tank is tricky but you can test without disturbing use ohms setting on multimeter try 20 k setting not sure
Measure reading between terminal on top unit and clean part metal of tank
Tip tank on side and reading will change if sender working
Sorry can't give values as I have recently refurbished my own tank sender which was sticking
 
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If I remember correctly, empty resistance is around 350 Ohms, and full is 15 Ohms.
 
Make sure the fuel sender is earthed to the chassis when you test it. If anyone needs any fuel senders Mr Reno gave me a box of them and they look R4 ish. Can send one back if you like Paul.
 
I have a plan of fitting acess hole in fibreglass floor of rodeo
 
Previous owner cut a hole in my r4 to get access. I just screwed a plate to cover it . quite useful thing to have
 
malcolm said:
Make sure the fuel sender is earthed to the chassis when you test it. If anyone needs any fuel senders Mr Reno gave me a box of them and they look R4 ish. Can send one back if you like Paul.
Click to expand...
Hi Malcolm. Do you have any of the R4 fuel senders left. I need one with a 175mm reach. You said you had a box full, although I know it was 3 years ago. Just asking... Edwin
 
Stull have some. Remind me at the weekend to have a look - in Sweden at the moment.
 
malcolm said:
Stull have some. Remind me at the weekend to have a look - in Sweden at the moment.
Click to expand...
Hi Malcolm. You said that you still had some fuel senders. I have a requirement for two. One tank is for a French '78 model, with three bolts holding the sender unit, and with a 175mm reach. I need this in my hands before the 16th Sept. The second is for a '88 Spanish GTL, and I have no details of that because I have not got it out yet. No time scale on this.
The senders you have, are they new or very good second hand, or rusty and requiring work? And how much do you want for them.

Thank you for your help, Regards Edwin Onions.
 
Hi Malcolm. Just reading the message above and it soundeda bit crisp. I did not intend that and I am very grateful of your help and for this fantastic Forum which has been a great help on many occasions. I am up against trying to refurbish an old tank I have, ready to take to France on the 20th to instal in my car there which has a damp fuel patch on the bottom of it's tank. While over there I am trying to get my control techniques dealt with and I want to get the new tank in before I go to the CT appointment. Life gets so complicated !. So if you do not have a nice sender unit with three holes and a 175mm reach, I will need to order one from Franzose, with its 7 day delivery time. So that is the full story. Edwin
 
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