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Fuel

walter white

Enthusiast
Messages
14
Location
france
HI from a newby..i ive just bought an 4l for my eldest son for his first car...I think the car is pinking.After reading some french forums,i still havnt a deffinative answer on what fuel to use with or without additive..can i have your thoughts please.Its a 1985 model..thank you in advance.
 
Hello
They dont need any additives ,but do not use any E10 petrol They should run on 95 or 98 ok ,where i live i can not get ordinary 95 so i use 98 all the time but they are pretty economical anyway
If it is still pinking you need to retard the ignition a degree or two and check points gap
 
Hello Walter, as Jonigel says, E10 is to be avoided as it has 10% ethynol content.

When leaded fuel was phased out, a Renault mechanic told me to use a lead additive with 95octane, which I have done for the past 12 years. He said that when the engines were designed, unleaded fuel didn't exist, which makes sense.

However, a lot of people just use 95 or 98 without any problems, as you can see from the following thread:
http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/which-fuel-additive-to-use.6546/
 
Thank you for thd replys...im going to look at the timing saturday..
It sounds like the exhaust blowing somewhere when the i accelerate. But im pretty sure its pinkin
 
Ok...I havnt got a manual for the car yet.And i have to get it back to the ct (mot)..garage v soon.
1....i cant find a leak on the front exhaust section..so does the engine generally sound noisy?or is it pinking?.ive done a static time on it and the mark on the flywheel l is just past the pointer mounted on the block.there are no other marks.help

the cars a 1985 modle 4l
2...the car failed on a front wheel bearing..can somone give me a short rundown how to change them?
 
Pinking is completely different sound from exhaust blow When you are going uphill in high gear is best way of hearing it pink ,metallic rattle from engine to far advanced,turn dizzy back a bit and try again,there are two marks on the flywheel and in theory should line up with the first one but in practice it generally needs to be done by ear on an old engine.
For wheel bearings you need disconnect track rod end top and bottom swivels push out drive shaft ,but leave in g/box if you have drum brakes disconnect flexi hose disc brakes just remove caliper.
With the upright now free you press out the hub and then the bearing and seal . To put back just revers, Bonne Courage
P S remove h/brake cable from inside engine bay
 
Last edited:
Thanks jonigel.Ive been playing with the timing all day and made no difference whatsoever !.I can only see one mark on the flywheel which is now a good 15 mm away clockwise from the pointer.(as you look fro the front of the car).Ive read so much about retard and advance ive got very confused.i can hear the noise as soon as i accelerate in and gear.Checked the exhausy again.nothing wrong.
Thanks for the wheelbearing rundown.



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Hi Walter, I'm presuming that you have an 845cc and not the 1108GTL engine. They don't both turn in the same direction. The 845 turns clockwise and the 1108 turns anti-clockwise.
There's only one mark on the flywheel and if that lines up with the pointer, it's Top Dead Centre.
On the 845 engine, you need to position the flywheel mark approx 10mm to the left of the pointer (before TDC), looking from the front of the car.
At this point, your points should be opening. Loosen the distributor, turn on the ignition and turn the distributor until the points open. You'll hear a click. Then tighten slightly, start the engine and fine tune by ear (as Jonigel suggests-its the best way)
 
Thanks fuel..it does turn clockwise so it must be the smaller engine.I will have another look at it tonight and move the timing again..lol
 
Ive done as you said fuel..The engine sounds spot on..but it has from day1...but the noise is still there..im now thinking its somthing else..noisy tappets or somthing...?
Or is it normal for the engine? Still sounds like a leaky exhaust to me.
 
difficult to say without actually hearing it .........and my name's not "fuel"!
might be valve/rocker arm clearance. You had better get a manual-try Amazon
 
Sorry..Mojobaby..i was reading of my phone email thingy..and it said Fuel..forgot that was the title..sorry..
thank you anyway.
 
no problem Walter,
there is a male/female exhaust connection with a clamp where the exhaust goes through the left front wing. Sometimes it works loose from vibration. You might be getting the louder exhaust noise from there. Disconnect, sand smooth and push back as hard as you can and re-tighten the clamp.
also check that your manifold bolts are tight
If you want to remove your rocker cover and check your valve rocker arm clearances with a feeler gauge, they are 0,15mm for the inlet valve and 0,20mm for the exhaust. That's on a cold engine.
From the front of the engine, valves 1,4,5 and 8 are exhaust valves and 2,3,6 and 7 are the inlet valves
 
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