Huh?? can't hear you! -Soundproofing.

[reidalpine]

as I haven't anything (more) sensible to do I've gone haywire with soundproofing Roffen for our Lonely High Nordic Challenge.

sound and noise are a funny thing-like a Granny yapping on and on and on 'till you just don't notice it anymore-untill you wake up one morning finding you have killed her in your sleep :eek:

as i didn't want to change the look and feel of an otherwise original interior I opted for large sheets of rubber-cork (doped)
same material you would use for making cork-seals.This material won't hold or trap water.smells lovely and comes in sheets of 50x50cm or 100x50cm in 0,5/1,0/1,5/2,0/2,5/and 3,0mm thickness.
I didn't want to cover the actual profiles themselves so opted to cover only the flat panels in the roof plus sides and rear side-parts plus rear-door Some 75-80% of all inside panels covered and Boy! does it make a difference....
I thought Roffen was fairly quiet,but noticed this buzz after driving a couple hours-why I often use earplugs..
Anyhoo;
Any/All resonances and noises from vibrating body-parts (No-not mine!) are now dampened to an extent I did not believe possible..
-In addition to this for the inside of the fire-wall/bulk-head I used what is called Shoddy -that's ripped fabrics lightly compressed to 1cm thickness. comes in 100x200cm for 10£ Only top-part of it is lightly glued to as high under the dashboard I could get and mat stretches to profile right under front-seats .glued only top of it so as to have the poss to lift it up and check for moisture/water under it.
Last place (but Most important place for killing direct noise!)
I soundproofed the engine-side of the fire-wall/bulk-head.
I did only the Mid-section right behind the timing-chain which sits real close to the fire-wall and there is nothing to dampen the noise from it as heater-matrix sits right on the inside.
used thin cardboard as template (Malcolm-way) cut very precisely and made holes for heater-hose air-bleed-valve plus the gully-hose. Used 1,5cm thick stuff approved for engine-rooms in boats,all fireproof and safe.this stuff has glue already on one side-A tip here! if you want it to look nice and slick-squirt water on firewall where glue goes then it won't stick where you don't want it -and you just sliiide it into position -soon as water evaporates it sticks like ..Well glue.
-I'll try to take some piccies tomorrow -just plainly forgot it today as the contact-glue I used inside is some Real Good Shit and I had a High-noon all by my self in there.
-Talk about Purple Haze!
Contact-glue on metal-panels works nice and has an extra advantage if you ever want to remove these sheets as it comes off nicely in one piece and leaves no trace at all..... Oh well-Time for a Newcastle brown and some kip later.. -R.

 

[malcolm]

Sounds good

Do post some pictures if you get a chance. I'm also thinking about soundproofing. One thing I've already noticed is the early seal for the rear of the bonnet (the one mounted on the bonnet) isn't at all effective so I'll replace it with a later seal mounted on the bulkhead.

The bulkhead will also need something - some pictures should provide inspiration.

 

[pepper]

Funnily enough I've got to have a serious soundproofing session on our Master Camper. We did 700miles over the weekend and my ears are still ringing!

Its blooming awful as the engine sits between the driver and the passenger and it hasn't been helped by the previous owner fitting a direct injection turbo diesel instead of the old non turbo! These Sofim engines are sooooo noisy!

I reckon I've got to strip the surroundings out and turn it all upside down and then glue all new extra sound proofing inside it whilst its in an easier position.

I really must do it before I go on our next trip as its driving me CCRAAAZZZYYYy.

 

[reidalpine]

Hi Malc and Pepper! -I've been thinking long and hard on this soundproofing-thing as I hate to cover everything up with fluffy stuff looking like a Shanghai brothel afterwards,
so spent lots of time finding what I think is the best/neatest stuff for the job..
(images hopefully on here soon -Via Malcolm)
I am very content with the result so far as I feel I have dampened the tedious noises that gives you a headache and won't stop buzzing in your head the first night after doing some hours driving-Plus Seriously affects your hearing!
Did a test-run and now I can actually hear the wires to the licence-plate in the rear rubbing against the inside of rear-door And this at 90km/h.
-The Direct noise from the timing-chain area is now all but gone-what I hear from the front now are the exhaust (still have the under-the wing muffler) the booming-noises from the rear(!) have never been this muted and soft -And I bet you,if you were blindfolded you would have a Hard time believing you were sat in a R4....

-pepper-there's no reason why you shuldn't have as good results with your camper-van
and you won't believe the stress-relief you'll see.
as you say the motor is between you in there,so you have loads of Direct noises from it Plus the resonant/booming/amplified noises from the "box" in addition.
If ample space on inside of motor-cowling I'd start there to damped at the Source of lots of it-IMPORTANT! Go for material that are Non-flammable and approved for marine engine-rooms applications then you'r safe as can be also re. your insurance.
When it comes to the living-area inside I'd definately go for this rubber-cork mats I found they are light-smells nice,easy to cut by knife or scissors,glues easily,doesn't hold or trap water,they can be left as is or painted with a roller or brush and are Really Really effective sound-killers!They come ready doped so won't fal apart or disintegrate as is.. if problems locating let me know and I'll assist ok? (can't see any branding or such but we'll work it out)
If you start tomorrow-you'll have the hang of it by night and Sunday you'll be so amazed you'll go on the next few days,and you won't recognize your camper afterwards -Promise! (maybe you'll end up going as far as Norwayland too)

 

[reidalpine]

Soundproofing-The pictures..

Hope this works....


daddys little helpers..


A little on the side-Sorry.........





last picture show heavy-duty carpet made to exact measurements for rear wheel-arches.They were made in 2 parts One side to front plus one Top.sideparts were cut on top then carefully ironed to get the 90 degree angle on them Top-part then glued to sidepart Finally reinforced using fibreglass-webbing on underside to hold shape. they are held in place only by velcro behind the vertical profile seen on top. I choose waterproofed carpet for this.

 

[malcolm]

Looks good. That little triangle behind the engine is hardly visible. I'm tempted to think about something for the Gordini while the area is still accessible.

Cork is cunning too - will add some damping but is very light. Anything heavy makes the panels boom (I added damping material on my F6 and made it noisier). Carpet is always good - works just the same way as in a house - noise doesn't bounce around so much.

I've examined the third photo and have a theory about what was making the noise. Did it sound like a party was going on?

 

[reidalpine]

Hi Malcolm! -personally I think the spot that pays off most to quiet dirct noise is that little space right behind the motor.hard to see here,but damping-material goes all the way down -just take care the down-hose goes beyond it..
-You are right-I just noticed my Renault-Cognac stash is down a few bouteilles..
They are real party-animals!
Next I will paint the cork,but need to find a sober guy to mix it-as this one quoted £68 per 1/2-litre..

 

[malcolm]

I can get paint here for £20 per half litre. It's not always the right colour (anyone want some 414 that's silver rather than dark blue?). Could post some over if the rules are different in Norwayland.

Could well be an important spot that. I worked on a car once where a tiny bit of damping just under the screen was astonishingly effective. Did you try the bulkhead stuff independently of the other sound proofing?

 

[reidalpine]

now £20 sounds much more like it!
I was amazed to find they can still deliver the Real paint i.e Not water-based as my paint comes from the Renault Lorry-division and it seems they have other rules so cellulose and thinner-based paint is still used by them and legal too...
- I had mounted the cork in the roof-section but then went on to the bulk-head and there was a very noticeable improvement by that alone..
I guess some heavier stuff (asphaltine-mats)in patches underside of bonnet/hood would further improve it a bit ,bonnet is to say the least very flimsy and carries lots of vibrational noise.
Other option would be to place some better rubber-pads each side of it to rest on ,to dampen noise being carried onto next panel.. (the rubbers on Roffen has hardened a bit so is getting too solid..
To be honest I am thrilled to bits by now,so will try to stop myself from going completely overboard... So far it has def.been worth it! -R.