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Leaks are driving me crazy

lazyduck15

Enthusiast
Messages
87
Hi everybody

I am here again asking for wisdom and directions. After starter motor failure, I decided to remove it and fix it. In the way to installing back the manifolds I discovered water. testing the starter I did noticed cylinder #2 was spitting water. Bad news! After removing the head, I found water in chamber 2. I remember I got some trouble with overheating while ago. So, I had the head skimmed and installed a new gasket. When I tested for leak I found water coming around the recently installed gasket.
I have changed three times mentioned gasket and I am still getting water from the same area. See a picture of it.
I am following the rule for tightening the head as per gasket manufacturer, stepping on 15, 29, 47 <90º, 47 lb-ft.
Would you please share some advice? Engine is 1289 cc, 810 model

Regards
 
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Well it looks like you have yourself a huge problem, I remember a friend of mine put the gasket on the wrong way sealing the water ways up, sounds stupid but it happened.
 
Are you using a decent torque wrench or can you borrow a good one to check the head bolt torques? Friend had a cheap torque wrench and had the same trouble.
 
Could be that you crossed threaded a couple of the head bolts and stripped the treads and they won't tighten down right.
 
Billy, Malcom

Thanks for your notes. Please see attached picture on gasket as installed. Do you agree on the way it is installed?. Chances are I did it wrong.On the other side, I will borrow another torque wrench from a local factor and see what happens.

Regards
 
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Billy, Malcolm

I just tighten again, going backwards 90º and then to 50 lb-ft as per my torque wrench. As a result, leaks reduced to a tiny couple. Please see attached picture.
Lots better, but Is it correct to do so?. Should I have the head reviewed again at the shop where it was skimmed?
Your advice is welcome.
 
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I myself have never had to change a head gasket on a Renault 4 however, Steve Hennesey previously did a post on this a while back.

Before I replace a head I do the following:

1) Stuff clean rag in all the orifices of the block except the bolt holes.
2) Thoroughly clean the surface of the block using a Stanley Knife blade, wet and dry paper lubed with WD40 or similar.
3) Stick a small screwdriver in each bolthole to check for swarf and crap.
4) Run the compressor up to 100psi, wrap the end of the airline nozzle with rag and blow out each hole. Keep a grip on the rag to prevent swarf and carbon going everywhere.
5) Repeat if necessary. Then run a tap down each hole to clean burnt carbon particles from the threads. Blow out all the holes again.
6) Remove the rag from the orifices and throughly clean the block surface and bores with thinners so everything is perfectly clean.
7) Fit the gasket without any sealant or grease (light greasing okay on copper asbestos gaskets). Carefully drop on an equally clean cylinder head that has been thoroughly overhauled and checked for straightness.
8) Apply a very light smear of copper grease to each cylinder head bolt and tighten them down by hand using an extension and socket.
9) Then nip them up using a bar, then tighten them in the correct sequence using half the recommended torque. Then 75% of the recommended torque, then 100%.
10) After 500 miles on a cold engine. Undo each bolt one turn and then torque to the recommended figure.

By using these simple rules I never had any failures at all and I urge any of you who are carrying out any top end work to use these rules.
I hope Steve's post helps you to solve your problem.
billy
 
Have you checked liner protrusion over block deck?

Is block surface clean and flat?
 
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