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Manifold to exhaust studs

View attachment 34738
What tips do people have on how to replace these?
I would wire brush mainifold side of pin stud, soak with 5.56 or WD40, dubbel nuts (turned tight together) on pin stud treads and try to turn it out with the top nut. If that isn´t enough apply heat and try again.
Hard to describe though english isn´t my native language.
 
I would wire brush mainifold side of pin stud, soak with 5.56 or WD40, dubbel nuts (turned tight together) on pin stud treads and try to turn it out with the top nut. If that isn´t enough apply heat and try again.
Hard to describe though english isn´t my native language.
Those were my thoughts - I've never actually had to replace them as I've always had spare manifolds (not the case these days...)! Just wondered whether I was missing a 'trick'.
Tack så mycket för hjälpen!
 
View attachment 34738
What tips do people have on how to replace these?
Hi there Andy!
-take manifold to your local shop -have them use induced heat-gun (I used coil-type to remove them) Bought a set of studs (10 or 12 pc's) from "Autodoc" or similar. (approx.£10)
Also get a new set of COPPER-nuts -and a SMALL dab of copper-grease on the first treads which all makes sure you won't have a problem removing them if and when later on.. -Reid
 
Hi Andy

On occasions, even when I have soaked the studs in copious amounts of WD40, countered- locked two nuts on the stud to extract, they have still snapped on me. Occasionally, I get lucky and they do come out. It is a real pain to drill out the remnants of the stud but possible then you can retap the thread and fit a new stud. If you have access to heat, I think it would be best to heat them up before attempting removal, more chance of a successful outcome at first attempt.
 
Hi there Andy!
-take manifold to your local shop -have them use induced heat-gun (I used coil-type to remove them) Bought a set of studs (10 or 12 pc's) from "Autodoc" or similar. (approx.£10)
Also get a new set of COPPER-nuts -and a SMALL dab of copper-grease on the first treads which all makes sure you won't have a problem removing them if and when later on.. -Reid
Thanks for the reply, Reidar. All the best!
 
Hi Andy

On occasions, even when I have soaked the studs in copious amounts of WD40, countered- locked two nuts on the stud to extract, they have still snapped on me. Occasionally, I get lucky and they do come out. It is a real pain to drill out the remnants of the stud but possible then you can retap the thread and fit a new stud. If you have access to heat, I think it would be best to heat them up before attempting removal, more chance of a successful outcome at first attempt.
Thanks, Chris - much appreciated!
 
Every good possible option is already written, just heat up the manifold around the studbolt, either induced or by flame, and with a good grip plyer gently turn in either direction the stud. Carefully because when the studbolt breaks it's always on the most impossible place (Murphy with his famous laws always apply).

You can also weld another bolt on the stud bolt to get grip.

And yes as @reidalpine wrote use coppergrease on the new studbolt thread and use copper nuts.
 
Every good possible option is already written, just heat up the manifold around the studbolt, either induced or by flame, and with a good grip plyer gently turn in either direction the stud. Carefully because when the studbolt breaks it's always on the most impossible place (Murphy with his famous laws always apply).

You can also weld another bolt on the stud bolt to get grip.

And yes as @reidalpine wrote use coppergrease on the new studbolt thread and use copper nuts.
Thanks, Joop.
Yes, Mr Murphy and I have become good friends....
 
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