Only static timing after fitting new stuff?

[Niels Svane]

Hi again guys

Im just wondering: Do I need to purchase a timing gun for setting the timing of my '83 845cc 4tl with ducellier dist., or is it enough to 'just' use the static timing?

All in the ignition circuit is new except for the distributor body itself.

Is there maybe a low-tech way of adjusting dynamic timing without using a strobo-gun?
At the moment its not firing, so Im going to set the point gap, and static timing today.

Niels

 

[David M]

Have the static timing set first.
You can use a globe connected to the battery and use the points to open the circuit by twisting the distributor.
Just do a check that the distributor is not 180 degrees out of alignment*. Very easy to do, but as a workaround you can change the position of the spark plug leads in the the distributor cap.

*a likely cause of not firing

PS if the car has been standing for a while a dribble of fuel directly into the carburettor will help it catch if all is well. (Take off the air cleaner)

David

 

[Niels Svane]

Now ive set the static timing to 9-11mm before TDC with the rotor at cylinder 1, as described in the manual. And it still doesnt fire..... At all. I have tried rotating the distributor somewhat in both directions, but it doesnt change anything. The gap at the points was 0.4 as it should be.

I have then tried with the old cap, the old HT lead, the old coil etc. and its the same.

List of changed parts: Points, coil, condenser, plugs, leads, dist.cap. Its getting enough juice (I can smell and se on the plugs).

What could then be the problem? I have put all wires right as they were with the old parts :S

 

[Niels Svane]

There is enough current at the coils + pole, but it seems that no spark is generated when the engine turns and the coil output is checked. But it is no better with the old coil either :|

 

[jonigel]

Where are you looking for a spark plugs or points? you need to check points first by flicking them open with ign on .you should get a blue spark if not you need to check the points are wired in properly all the insulators have to be in place and tight on the body .Also the wire from coil is ok.

 

[mr-reno-139]

Posted in 2 places I replied on other one common mistake is the plastic spacer washer on low tension wire fitted wrong order or spring on points touching distributor body for same reason this will permanently earth the negative side of coil

 

[Niels Svane]

Sorry if I have been too bad at looking into former answers in the forum. But thanks a lot for the different takes on the problem. I think you are right with some sort of ground inside the distributor. The sun shines and theres nearly 6 degrees here in Denmark, perfect for fiddling with the car

 

[mr-reno-139]

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignition_system
Read the section on modern ignition systems may be some help
Would love to have the time to spend troubleshooting everyone's problems but need to pay my bills somehow and a rodeo to get sorted !

 

[Niels Svane]

Ive got it sortede now. Old breakers and voila; it started. I also took everything apart in the top of the distributor and put it together, made correct timing and breaker gap, and it started perfectly.
It didnt even go out at junctions which was the original problem (maybe near faulty coil). But it still runs a bit uneven, so im installing a gas-filter, and cleaning the small filter in the carb.
Thanks again Now ill look into buying a Norton ES2 1953 to supplement the renault and honda. (Maybe even sell the honda).