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Andy Sherlock

Andy Sherlock

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103
You have probably all been through this debate over and over again, but I haven't, so sorry to drag up old stuff if that's the case.

Can I run my 1985GTL on unleaded without an addative?

The petrol cap has a green inner cap to it, suggesting unleaded.
The handbook is not clear I think it suggests 97 octane.
The head on the car is aluminium I think, so I would imagine the valve seats are hardened and unleaded is okay.

I am currently running the car with Shell Optimax (99 RON) and a a 'FuelCat', its a device placed in the petrol line just befor the carb. The petrol filters through it picking up a lead replacement. The car runs fine on this and there's no hassle with pouring stuff into the tank.
What are the thoughts of you very helpful people on this?

I'll attach a photo of the 'FuelCat' with photo's of my new stainless exhaust in the near future. along with a photo of my six tone 'Lacucaracha' air horns crammed under the bonnet! They sound great under bridges and make old ladies jump from 200 yards! Really suit the car they do.
 
I don't know about your car, but in my case I never do.

I always use an additive with unleaded petrol.
 
Hi Andy! shouldn't be a problem as Renault was one of the first to go for hardened valve-followers/seats.
I've driven both an -82 Fuego and a 81 R-18 on non-lead fuel with No problems at all.
Going flat out for hours on tour to Italy was no problem at all.
engine on R-18 was dismanteled after several years and I could see No wear at all.
Only 2 things to watch out for is Long hours in topspeed-If going for real long hauls I would add an additive for total peace of mind.
-Pinging when going uphills,You will notice If it occurs-retard the ign.till pinging is gone...


NB!!:One thing of REALLY much higher importance is to check AND change all petrol rubber-hoses as the new petrol is now a totally new 'mix' and old(er)rubber-hoses is at risk as new petrol is MUCH more aggressive on them.
Make SURE to get petrol-hoses with any of these writing on them:
NBR-PET-CSM or:
FKM-PET-CSM -if you can't get these go for:
DIN 73379 type E
ISO 4639 type 2
SAE J 30 R 7 or:
SAE J 30 R9-11
-any of these codes MUST be printed on the hoses........(Don't let the local garage talk you into buying what they have laying about)

WRRRRRRRRRRRRRRROOOOOMMMM! -R.
 
Thanks for the info, from this and other, I have come to the conclusion that I should be okay exept for long hauls, in which case, I will add some Valvemaster.
That said, the Fuelcat does seem to be doing what the manufacturer claims.
Thanks.
 
Fuel Cat

Here's some photo's of the fuel cat I fitted.
Seems to be doing it's job and hasn't damaged anything yet!

Regards.
 
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hi ya i run my R4 in france on super 98 unleaded for the last 6 years had no problems always change your oil every 6000 miles
 
I've burned exhaust valves three times in R4 1108s. Always after prolonged max speeds over long distances. Two of these times driving across France, and once shuttling from Dundee to Cambridge.

Carb spec seems to make no difference, so I guess magnetic fuel conditioning will not prevent the problem either. My solution these days is to use a lead replacement additive whenever I plan to drive at maximum speed for more than 200 miles.

For the rest of the time I use standard unleaded without problems.

There's more than one issue regarding fuel choice and additives. R4s are prone to pinking due to a lean fuel mix and distributor advance curves that are better suited to leaded than unleaded, so it's a different matter to sort the pinking from protecting the valves.
 
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