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R4 FRONT TORSION BARS

STEPHEN ADDISON

Enthusiast
Messages
61
Location
THIRSK, NORTH YORKSHIRE
Morning all --- I have been looking through past posts regarding the front torsion bars but i have not found an answer to my current problem. My chassis and suspension have been completely stripped down to the last nut and bolt and everything has been re welded, restored and re assembled with the exception of the front torsion bars which where removed cleaned painted and greased. they have now been fitted again but i must be doing something wrong as i am unable to achieve the 41 mm setting distance from wheel center to under side of chassis as quoted in the Haynes manual.
The facts are
A) The body and chassis are together with engine and box fitted but has no wings, doors, tail gate, bonnet, glass or interior.
B) The torsion bars are fitted into the front lower suspension arms
C) The rear of the torsion bar were bolted in position following the procedure listed below
D) All other elements of the front suspension were fitted prior to operation C)
The situation is that with the car fully jacked off the ground so that the wheels and tyre's are hanging in mid air i then aligned the rear torsion bar in the bracket and bolted it via the 3 bolts to the chassis -- all quite simple but in lowering the car from the jack it settled almost at floor level ( fully closed shock height ) which is no where close to the suggested 41 mm setting and it is far from full weight
In my mind this was the maximum torque i could impart onto the bar and having checked the height i was going to adjust it down by lowering the car on the jack and bolting again until the height was correct
What am i doing wrong, should this procedure be carried out without some elements of the front suspension assembled such as the shock in order to increase the amount of travel that the lower arm can take thus increase the twist on the torsion bar ? or is it more complex
Steveemily 002.JPG
 
It is possible to reassemble this way but only if you carefully marked both ends when dismantled or better still left it all together using method I I posted on here before
I took loads of pics and explained it all in my post maybe 6 month or a year ago
Officially you are supposed to have car in the air twist it using tool and hope for best
If both ends of bar been removed and no marks made this could take a while as you need a base setting on both sides some where near desired height

If you want to continue the way you are doing it now slacken nut front end inner lower wishbone remove top nuts shocker antiroll bar and driveshaft top swivel and bolts holding lower crossmember and uprights to chassis nut removed
remove tie bar then if you get assistance to put leverage to hold lower wishbone almost vertical aprox 5 o'clock ns
7 o'clock os
Then you can bolt back end torsion bar mount
Reassemble hope for the best
leave shafts out temporary and if you are lucky it might be somewhere near right height ☺
 
Having read through the manual again, plus your comments and taken notes from Malcolm's unloading tool i feel i have the answer --- so thanks chaps for your assistance
Steve
 
Before dealing with torsion bar and ride height settings, make sure that if the upper or lower wishbones had been removed, they have been tightened at the correct position. If in doubt, loosen all four pivot bolts and with a jack set the car so that H1-H2 is 90mm (that will be easier without bolting the torsion bar anchor lever). At this point tighten the pivot bolts to correct torque.
Of course, final ride height check should be done with the car fully equipped (seats, glass etc). Don't fit the anti-roll bar, it will be easier to check left to right ride height difference that way.
 
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