Rear Brakes and Bearings

[orsome]

Now I'm into wheel cylinders and flexibles. As I suspected, the front wheel cylinders were fused solid, once I'd persuaded the brake drums off, but linings look okay. I imagine the rears will be the same. I am also pleased to say that when I made a chance buy at a carboot a few months ago, I guessed right with the front wheel cylinders. Getting the old ones off was a bit of a mission and I had to release the back plate to get enough clearance to get at the bolts.
Haven't reassembled yet, but hopefully I will grab another session over the bank holidays and get both front brakes back into working order, before I turn my attention to the rears.

**just like mines-23years of storing and anything wont roll, i just got brake drums from turning, waiting for to get new rear brake shoes delivery+new rear bearings se(which i hat to destroy to get out the rear back plates-as someone did forecast.Bolts opened nicely with a gas flame(only two broken bolt for back plates assy)...also had the strater motor cleaned(solenoid), now should be OK, waiting for new bumper gummies)

 

[barnfind]

My brake drums weren't too bad, still bright metal over most of the braking surface and some fine surface rust at the bottom of the drum, where presumably any damp had settled.
A rub down with some fine emery cleaned everything up nicely.
I am hoping that I can get at the rear wheel cylinder bolts without too much difficulty and everything gets plenty of WD40 before it sees a spanner.
I am replacing all of the hydraulics lock stock and barrel. I don't subscribe to cleaning up the bores and then putting in new seals after my Morris 10 popped its front seals after the PO had 'overhauled' them.

 

[orsome]

backplates adjustment bolts

My brake drums weren't too bad, still bright metal over most of the braking surface and some fine surface rust at the bottom of the drum, where presumably any damp had settled.
A rub down with some fine emery cleaned everything up nicely.
**lucky you!:eek:

Can y rotate the shoe adjustement eccentric cams?
Mine wont rotate, i did put torch flame and rust off but no movement seen.
I see clarly that there is some kind of thin metal sheet between the eccentric disc and base metal but do not know what is it for?
I think i have to make a proper tool or purchase it somewhre, but the square nut did not move even i put it to jaw vice and tried to turn the whole backplate?

Any good news, other guys?:eek:

 

[barnfind]

Yes I can rotate the adjusters, at least on the fronts (haven't tackled the rear yet). I have been spraying with WD40 for several weeks, so that should have helped. Heat should help, or conversely, try one of the new freeze/releasing oils that you can get now. Shrinks everything and opens up the threads so that the oil can get in.

 

[barnfind]

Tackled one of the rear brakes today. To my surprise everything was free and although the cylinder looked dreadful, it was still in reasonable working order. I opted to change it anyway, however, having a new replacement to hand. I need to change the flexible as well, but ran out of time.

 

[orsome]

Tackled one of the rear brakes today. To my surprise everything was free and although the cylinder looked dreadful, it was still in reasonable working order. I opted to change it anyway, however, having a new replacement to hand. I need to change the flexible as well, but ran out of time.

Orsome: Oh-lucky you!
Flexible y mean connecting hoses or do y have pipes as i do?

I did use some cooling oils, no help but i am going to heat again to red and then spray cooling oil directly only to the nut -an hopefully it will give up in screw jaws- and not to brake down.

today i will pick up new rear bearings, i hope those will fit without any problems(i only wonder the inner bearings inner diameter, catalog gives 19,9 mm but i think my measurement was 21mm?-there should not be any such bearings in R4)

 

[orsome]

rear wheel bearings

today i will pick up new rear bearings, i hope those will fit without any problems(i only wonder the inner bearings inner diameter, catalog gives 19,9 mm but i think my measurement was 21mm?-there should not be any such bearings in R4):

ah-did not get the bearings-instead it was bumber gum parts.

Took yesterday of, what was left off, inner rear wheel bearings, those seem to be brand SNR and type marking AC 10059
- d(shaft) is something like 22mm's and T(width) 22mm

anyone having the same?
where to byu new ones?
(equivalent brand and types should be A&S F15063 and IRB IR 2028/34, SNR AC-10059/32005)

 

[angel]

(off-topic, Malcolm move it wherever you think it fits better)

We had discussed this with Geoff in the Gully recently, it's a special SNR bearing (you will notice the inside edge of the inner track has a radius not a right angle), 22 x 47 x 20,75mm. Try to search it at a bearing store near you with the SNR AC 10059 code. If you can't find it I can help you, I have found them here for about 35 euros each.

 

[orsome]

snr ac 10059

(off-topic, Malcolm move it wherever you think it fits better)

--luckily bearings received the rigth stuff-what i cannot undesrtand is sellers identification specs??
see the photos..and thanks

 

[orsome]

rear back plates revealed

I got the adjusters rotating
when having no rigth tools i used the piece bougth backwards-it has a 100 rect hole which is ideal for the adjusters.

I did heat them up as much i could+then bang the adjuster bolt with hanmmer(on screw jaws under it+some oils-and it mowes!!)
see the photos

as y see one bolt broken per each backplate

 

[orsome]

finding bolts difficulties

well, as anyone else seem to have any kind of interest on my writings, i'll do it myself: as told before had unluck with two pcs of the bolts keeping rear brake backplates on their position's.
was looking for new 8mm times 1,0pitch from local stores-not very simple task as some of you migth know.First to a special bolt seller which had no bolts with 1.0mm pitch at all?
Then to my local motor repair workshop, quite friendly young gyu searched me two ex yellow passivated samples for free of charge.Was not so satisfied at all.
Then went to a Parker store(selling hydraulics etc. special goods) and suprisingly they could find me 8pcs rigth bolts(cs material as original with material strength class needed) rigth pitch but little too long.Ok, will shorten them if neede- cost-guess-only 1 euro.I will today fix the backplates+assy the new bearrings+assy the new brake shos+assy one new slave cylinder+one old one(to be brightened inside)-soon i will have new brakes on every corner-even one new handbrake wire assembled! the to put back the strater motor (solenoid cleaned by proffs)