Red,Green,Blue or Evans?

[reidalpine]

Ok guys,new topic for the week-end..Since none of us has a proper life anyway-i'm trying to keep
you all occupied this week-end to keep you from any mischief you might have planned.

I've always used the green antifreeze (glycol-based) If I recall all the other R4/4L's I've been
peering into the engine-bay of has had the same green stuff...

-Aren't all these R,G,B-colored products glycol-based And for use in iron/alu-engines?
maybe with different rust-inhabitors,additives etc but basicly correct for us?

Now as the time nears for my new engine,I thought about that insanely expensive Evans "The ultimate
cooling solution" as they call it. contains absolutely NO water, withstands 180C.so no boiling and near zero pressure in system,so top-end gasket should have a fighting chance too.

Expensive at Nok:695/€76 per 5L (and you need to fill to usual level,so needs even more than 5L)
and this is ONLY for the prep-fluid (hydroporic)that has to be used to get ALL water out of system.

Then you'll need the actual coolant that will set you back another Nok.790/€86 for 5L,so you need
an additional Litre or two...

Question is, is it worth it? I mean on the up-side they say it'll last you 20 years !! but you better make sure you don't have a leak in the system.Also on the up-side is it's waterless so no more NASTY rust,gunk and nastyness clogging up the system.bad or No heat inside car.Bad cooling for engine,failing water-pump,leaking hoses etc etc
I've been a Good lad changing every 2 seasons using name-brand product plus demineralized and boiled water but despite this I'm Always blown away by just how filthy and rusted it looks inside when dumping to renew it..

so hows about it gang.. Worth it? tried it..-and?? Tips? Advice? -I'll take them all! -R.

 

[ggcton]

Ok guys,new topic for the week-end..Since none of us has a proper life anyway-i'm trying to keep
you all occupied this week-end to keep you from any mischief you might have planned.

I've always used the green antifreeze (glycol-based) If I recall all the other R4/4L's I've been
peering into the engine-bay of has had the same green stuff...

-Aren't all these R,G,B-colored products glycol-based And for use in iron/alu-engines?
maybe with different rust-inhabitors,additives etc but basicly correct for us?

Now as the time nears for my new engine,I thought about that insanely expensive Evans "The ultimate
cooling solution" as they call it. contains absolutely NO water, withstands 180C.so no boiling and near zero pressure in system,so top-end gasket should have a fighting chance too.

Expensive at Nok:695/€76 per 5L (and you need to fill to usual level,so needs even more than 5L)
and this is ONLY for the prep-fluid (hydroporic)that has to be used to get ALL water out of system.

Then you'll need the actual coolant that will set you back another Nok.790/€86 for 5L,so you need
an additional Litre or two...

Question is, is it worth it? I mean on the up-side they say it'll last you 20 years !! but you better make sure you don't have a leak in the system.Also on the up-side is it's waterless so no more NASTY rust,gunk and nastyness clogging up the system.bad or No heat inside car.Bad cooling for engine,failing water-pump,leaking hoses etc etc
I've been a Good lad changing every 2 seasons using name-brand product plus demineralized and boiled water but despite this I'm Always blown away by just how filthy and rusted it looks inside when dumping to renew it..

so hows about it gang.. Worth it? tried it..-and?? Tips? Advice? -I'll take them all! -R.

I use Evans in my Renault 16 had it in for two years with no problems but it does look a bit dirty .The engine had already coverd 80000 miles when I put in.I may go mad and change it again next year just to get rid of the old engine silt. I feel confident with the product and will put it my other 16 in the spring when I fit the new engine.

 

[angel]

All types of antifreeze sold now are glycol baseed, the difference lies in their anti-corrosive additives which may be organic based (red antifreeze family) or non-organic based (yellow and green and maybe blue-I have never come across this stuff here). Both of them are good for our engines, but it is said to be forbidden to mix them, because the additives react and attack any rubber seals and o-rings in the circuit. In the earlier cars this may probably have no effect, as they don't have any such parts, but the resulting brownish liquid will look equally unsightly through a clean glass expansion bottle... So whatver you choose, stay loyal to it, or before changing colour, flush the circuit thoroughly.

I have tried Water Wetter as an additive and I don't think it did anything, or maybe it was sort of placebo effect. I would be interested to hear more about the Evans stuff-is it really worth the extra cost?

 

[reidalpine]

Hi again Angelos! Thanx for clearing my question re.glycol,so now I know they Are all based on this stuff. As you say, the difference would
be in the rust-inhabitants and poss.other additives (I would guess some lubricants for the water-pump? etc)
It looks to me that its a matter of choosing the best you can get for your money.

I used water-wetter before and for me it helped a lot. general temp.didn't go down much but it was atleast always very steady and predictable.
I'm not sure why,but a friend treated his engine at same time as me,and like you, didn't see a noticeable result (that is: he saw NO result after)
He poured in half a bottle whilst I poured in a tiny amount a time. Now I'm not saying this was the reason,but atleast it worked for me.

The new motor has just seen "normal" glycol for minutes,and has NO residue or other stuff in there,the rad is now flushed out again,so I am
tempted to go for Evans with prep-fluid and all.

Had hoped for evan(!) more feedback from other members that uses it,so Please join in! -R.

 

[mr-reno-139]

Your forgetting most of us running an R4 are on a budget
I guess if I was confident that all components internally were clean enough ie everything new with the amount already spent a bit more on non water would be a small price to pay for peace of mind
Especially good if it doesn't eat into the new debatable quality repro hoses gaskets and radiators pumps etc
Think I would settle for spending money on temp gauge instead and making sure cooling system flushed clean and new fan switch and associated wiring terminals etc
Running a length of flat twin cable off the switch terminals up to dash as manual override would be good enough for me
☺

 

[Paul Narramore]

I was chatting to Brian (Cornish) and Vincent today about the correct antifreeze/coolant for our cars and Brian surprised me by telling me that I shouldn't be using OAT coolant. This stuff if fluorescent orange in colour and supposedly unsuitable for our old engines as it harms O-rings and silicon sealant amongst other things such as soldered radiators. Vincent thought our engines weren't quite old enough to warrant any concern. Reading articles on the Net on this subject this evening, people do suggest the old blue or green antifreeze/coolant stuff is THE STUFF for our engines. Discuss.

 

[reidalpine]

Hi Paul-I opted out of Evans waterless anti-freeze as I discovered it not only Allows for higher tems,but also Operates at (much) higher temp.
I don't really know if this would be damaging,but I've always been vary of exessive temps.I might be overly caucius here,but we know our cars
works nicely on the glycol-based stuff so to sleep better at night I opted for a premium brand with added rust-inhibitor added (but approved for
alu-heads and Non abrasive) Also has double the change-intervals of ordinary/cheapo-stuff -Reid.