removing sump in situ

[michael power]

hello. i have low compression in no 1 cylinder. i have done the valves. still have low compression. goes up considerably when the cylinder has been given a few shirts of heavy oil. so convince that the problem is pistons or rings. i have been trying very hard to remove sump with engine in situ. i have at last managed to remove all fixings. the sump is loose, i am finding it impossible to remove as the bodywork gets in the way of the back of the sump. i am concluding that it is actually impossible. i therefore fear i will have to remove engine and gearbox. any views. is it actually possible or not? thanks michael

car is a 1984 renault 4 GTL 1108cc.618-CIE

 

[jcarruthers2]

Hi Michael

The sump can be removed with the engine in situ. You need to remove the tubular crossmember underneath the car which straddles the chassis rails in order to remove the sump.

 

[Crelesy]

If you have some means of hoisting above the car, removing the engine then is not that hard if you leave the gearbox on. And I think it's a good way to check other things like chain and tensioner while it's out.
After checking all and maybe renew some seals and stuff, you might be surprised how confident you get and the more fun you have driving, resting asure the engine is in top condition.

 

[michael power]

Thank you for this. i understand what you are saying but with the later engine this is not the problem.( the cross member) it is the back of the sump which is up behind the botton of the floor pan. i am trying to attach a photo. i think my only chance short of engine removal is the lift it slightly, say 2 inches the back to get enough clearance to drop the sump at an angle. it is the extreme right of the picture which is the problem. the haynes manual supplement helpfully just says 'drop the sump" and refers to the earlier section which is a for a different shape of sump which has its own different problems. if i can't do it then clearly i will have to take the engine out. it sounds like a lot of work, splitting drive shafts and moving steering racks.etc..

 

[Andy McGhee]

Thank you for this. i understand what you are saying but with the later engine this is not the problem.( the cross member) it is the back of the sump which is up behind the botton of the floor pan. i am trying to attach a photo. i think my only chance short of engine removal is the lift it slightly, say 2 inches the back to get enough clearance to drop the sump at an angle. it is the extreme right of the picture which is the problem. the haynes manual supplement helpfully just says 'drop the sump" and refers to the earlier section which is a for a different shape of sump which has its own different problems. if i can't do it then clearly i will have to take the engine out. it sounds like a lot of work, splitting drive shafts and moving steering racks.etc..

View attachment 33761 View attachment 33762

It'd be worth reading angel's comments in this thread (he's an expert):

Oil leak from sump / timing chain cover

Hi everybody, I'm experiencing a little but annoying problem with my 956cc TL. The junction between the block, the sump and the timing chain cover is leaking quite a lot, and I'm wondering if I could fix that without taking off the engine from the car. The space to unscrew the sump is quite...

www.renault4.co.uk

 

[michael power]

success. I have loosened the front engine(gearbox ) attachments but left in place. i have lifted the rear of the engine about 2 or 3 inches. this has not put strain on anything. i was then able to remove the sump and then conrod, take out piston and liner to discover a broken ring and a broken rim on the piston. many tahnks for comments.

 

[michael power]

here is what i took out. apart from this piston everything else looks good, bores as new and shell is good. can anyone help me with how to get one piston and rings? 70mm or to fit bore of 70mm.