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Removing Track-Rod end - Changing Gaiter

I

isobars

Enthusiast
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Hi All,

I've got the steering arm gaiter to replace a torn one , but I'm ashamed to admit I've never really looked closely at a TRE until today.

I've removed the nut beneath - this is a '91 1128 - and thumped the bolt upwards a few times thinking it was simply going to pop-up/out. It has started to expose a couple of threads from beneath the rubber sleeve, but I'm worried if all this force is the way to go?

Am I on the right track with this?

If I am, what is the next move for fitting the gaiter?

I'm not bad in the kitchen, but I'm not quite sure how long you leave a gaiter in an 800w microwave with an ambient temp of 25C.

Thanks in Advance,

Paul
 
You'll need a ball joint splitter if you want to remove the track rod end. An alternative method if you can get the nut back on the track rod end would be to loosen the locking nut between the steering arm and track rod end and unscrew the steering arm (it will turn in the rack). Advantage of that method is you wouldn't need to have the tracking reset.
 
If you just thump the end of the bolt then you'll have serious problems getting the nut back on the thread afterwards!
You're far better off getting the proper tool for the job as nothing much else will do it.
(no I'm not even going into the two hammers method here)
 
TREDIR.jpg

So, am I heading in the right direction:

A) With the spanner
B) Getting closer to slipping on the gaiter?

Thanks in advance.

Sorry to be a bit thick, again.

Cheers,

Paul

litsred.jpg
 
Hi Paul, you need to remove the ball joint at the end (the nut in the foreground needs taking off, which is the piece I thought you were hammering)

you need to remove that ball joint first then the trackrod end just undoes.
 
Ah,

I was trying to remove what I thought was the steering arm from Malcolms post.
(I was hammering upwards, but put the nut back before I bollocksed it.)
So I need the Portuguese word for Ball-joint Splitter!
Do I remove the bolt, put the flat bit of the 'scissors' on the bolt-hole, then slot the two prongs under the rubber rim of the hat?

Thanks again.

Cheers,

Paul
 
You don't need to remove the balljoint!

Beside the 22mm(?) lock nut where you have the spanner in your photo there should be a flattened section on the steering arm that will accept a 16mm spanner.

Holding a 16mm spanner to stop the steering arm from moving, release the lock nut, then using the 16mm spanner undop the steering arm.
 
Ok sounds cool if you don't need to remove the ball joint, I didn't think there was enough play to get the whole track rod end out of the steering rack.
 
Turn the bar (marked with X in the photo) not the nut. The bar should unscrew from the track rod end.
 
Don't forget to have the tracking set after you bolt it all back together - the amount the steering arm is screwed into the track rod end is important for steering and tyre wear etc.
 
Next time you do such a job, remember to loosen the locknut very slightly, just to allow the tie rod to be unscrewed. If you keep the locknut on its original position on the balljoint (ie not turn it) you have effectively kept the front end alignment unaltered. This can save you the hassle of having the car retracked.
Of course, this means that you are sure the front end alignment IS correct and not checked last time in Billancourt in the 70s...
 
Hi,

Thanks for the advice. I wish I' d thought about it a little harder before I started turning it the wrong way! I'll remember that for the next MoT, when t'other side is bound to be blxd. I suppose spending most of my physics lessons hiding under a blazer sniffing ether didn't help either.

Before any movement I did mangage to count the threads with my thumbnail -13.75 from TDC, I'll see how the tyres go!

Best wishes from Portugal,

Paul
 
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