she won't start

[ade]

got my '67 850 back together after a head gasket renewal, but she's not wanting to start......

am i right in saying there is only one way a distributor can be put in (i removed it and turned the engine over a few times before putting it back in)? i marked its exact position before i removed it

also, i've set the valve clearances to + 0.2 mm on top of standard clearances (i.e. almost double) as per Haynes....is this right?

although i'm getting a spark, i'm not sure i've got the electrics totally right: does the earth wire from the dizzy go to the dizzy fixing screw into the block....and is the alternator wiring thick black wire to large stud, green to small top stud and pale (grey?) wire to small bottom stud

she's been making a phutting noise when turning engine over.

any help much appreciated....Adrian

 

[alewis]

I have no idea but !

Was the distributor drive a flat like a screwdriver ? If so it could be 180 degrees out.

The phutt noise could be it trying but at completely the wrong time. (Just a guess)

Regards,
Andrew

 

[Geoff in the Gully]

The flat bit on the bottom of the distributor drive is not centred, it's set to one side. This means it only goes in one way.

However, the cam goes round twice for each turn of the crankshaft. When you turned the engine over a few time you may have ended up with the dizzy being 180 degrees out - the lead for no.1 cylinder being where no. 4 needs to be.

Had that problem recently and the engine was coughing, trying to start and backfiring all over the place. Swapped the leads around on a hunch - had tried most everything else - and she fired up straightaway.

Give it a go - nothing to lose.

 

[orsome]

distributor bottom flat pin

The flat bit on the bottom of the distributor drive is not centred, it's set to one side. This means it only goes in one way.

However, the cam goes round twice for each turn of the crankshaft. When you turned the engine over a few time you may have ended up with the dizzy being 180 degrees out - the lead for no.1 cylinder being where no. 4 needs to be.

Had that problem recently and the engine was coughing, trying to start and backfiring all over the place. Swapped the leads around on a hunch - had tried most everything else - and she fired up straightaway.

**Dear Geoff..if you have wrigth, you made my day. I have done everything other now perpect and triplechecked(like for moonfligths), but still, only what i get is exactly thet what you wrote "coughing, trying to start and backfiring .."

When you say that flat bit in the distributor bottom is not centered...??..that could also explain why the hole distributor is swapping when its not screwed down completely.

Let me tell what i have: I had lost that pin with slot(counterpart for distributor bottom flat bit) and received new part from Angel (most difficult to get) and put it down....lets see what will happen when i go to garage now

 

[iMacThere4iAm]

Even if the distributor is right way round, if the timing is really very wrong then the engine might splutter and backfire. Check that too.

 

[angel]

May not have much to do with your non-start issue, but why did you set the valve clearances so wide? The "cold" setting (0,15mm in - 0,20mm ex) is fine.

 

[orsome]

wont start-distibutor issue

I think the mystery will be solved- i have put the distributor pin to wrong position, each time i try to set points correctly, the rotating head points out just berween the knobs, not on the knob.Yjats'why it has been impossible to get it running.

Now i have to try get off the "pin" and set it so that any knob inside distributor head will matgh to rotator.

Not so easy, a toolissiu, could lend a specific outdragger from my motyor workshop where i did get the engine done.

--cannot be anything else

 

[ade]

thanks Angel, i wondered whether Haynes was correct on this....it sounded wrong to me...if i still cant start it after repositioning dizzy, i'll redo valve clearances to just a tad wider than standard

got a price for a genuine lead set....£67!...think i'll pass
but, the pattern rotor arm i bought was rubbish...far too loose a fit, the cap wasn't much better

 

[orsome]

starting problems...next episode

I think the mystery will be solved- i have put the distributor pin to wrong position.

That was the reason, after makin some tricks i could reset distributor to a "close"ositin and has succeeded to start engine at least three times.
First she runs very nicely with full choke but cannot continue with or without choke. I then checked the fuel pump, which i know did not have the reversing spring at all(had been damaged -89.).I did put one spring but low results.Then i discovered two fuel line issues, insi9de the rigth wheel arc somebody before -86 had repaired leaks with rubber hoses-even without any hose clamps. Next place to repair was rear wheel arc, overpass wheel support-there was a half centimeter hole?

After these repairs, after putting some fresh fuel, no move???
before when i tested the fuel pump outlet, it seemed to be OK, but now i do not get nothing but bubbles?

Now i have all ligths working, what i can say is that it seems always to be an earthing problem, found some much contamination owerall in cable end clamps, agel and clem were rigth.

Have ordered new fuel pump(i did knew that some of the rubber parts inside were not OK. Did order as well a repair set for carburettor Zenith 28IF(inlet needle most important)

What this could be?