starting problems

[bermudasaab]

Our 1985/6 Renault 4gtl turns over slowly.We brought another battery but still the same, Book say's might be starter motor? would this be right Which one s fit are they easy to fit?

 

[malcolm]

It'll probably be the starter motor, but it's well worth cleaning up all the battery, earth and starter electrical connections just in case.

The symptoms are common with the R4 starter. Clutch dust gets into the solenoid and causes a bad electrical connection. They can be cleaned up as Frederick demonstrates. Otherwise it should be possible to buy a new or reconditioned one from your motor factors.

Fitting is a fiddly depending on the starter motor. One type has a threaded casting for one of the bolts to the gearbox, and the other type has an inaccessible nut.

 

[Steve Hennessey]

A quick earth check is to clip a jump lead onto the battery earth terminal and the other end onto the engine. If it spins over ok then it's definitely a dirty earth strap connection.

Steve

 

[bermudasaab]

starter motor

Many thank's for the advice How many bolts are there I think I've found 3 I'm making a spanner to fit under the clutch cable or is there a better way

 

[malcolm]

Sounds like you are heading in the right direction. There are 3 bolts, and everyone should have a modified spanner for the nut tucked away at the bottom. Mine is a small ring spanner with the edges ground off a little.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery.

 

[bermudasaab]

Hi Guys the starter is now free of the engine but how do I get it out of the engine bay? Do I take off the manifolds or lift the engine Thanks for your help but Haynes manual is as unclear as ever

 

[malcolm]

Lifting the starter out is a bit like one of those chinese puzzles. Move it backwards, twist it 45 degrees and then draw it out forward and up (from memory).

You don't need to remove the manifolds, but it might be helpful to remove the reinforcing bracket between the engine and the engine mount or possibly the bracket that holds the clutch cable.

 

[angel]

You RHD-guys are much luckier! I think you only have to remove the bridge on the LH engine mounting and the motor will be free to remove. Compare this with a LHD car:you have to remove completely the handbrake mechanism(drum-braked R4s),disconnect the steering column so that it can be moved a little to the side, and then you have the master cylinder on the way...really fiddly.A "half moon" ring spanner is very useful for the inaccessible 13mm nuts,too.

 

[will]

starting problems too.

My TL wouldn't start this morning, turned the key once and it turned over a little, then when a tried again absolutely nothing. It's been starting fine recently, only 2/3 turns of the key at most. I'm pretty sure the problem is not the battery. Does this sound like the solonoid problem Fredrick the frog describes?

Thanks

 

[malcolm]

Could be - the symptoms are very similar to a flat battery or dirty electrical connections. Do you have a set of jump leads to rule out the battery?

 

[will]

I checked the battery yesterday evening and it was fine. I turned the key and the car started first time. Does this sound like the symptoms, sometimes it's fine other times nothing?
Removing the starter moter doesn't look like too much of a problem on the TL. Is it OK to take out the engine bracket that goes over it when you take it out?

Thanks

 

[malcolm]

Sounds like it probably is the starter motor. My 850 does much the same thing. I thought it might be the ignition lock to start with so hotwired the car, but it still does the same thing. It's OK to remove that bracket.