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Starting up troubles

C

Cafatera

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Can anyone help diagnose start up problems I'm having with our A reg Renault 4 GTL?

The engine starts runs for a second or 2 and then cuts out- this happens whether the choke is in or out, regardless of trying to rev it. I managed to get it started yesterday after 5-10minutes of trying and then had almost no power; it would barely pull away from the kerb side even using full throttle.

Happy to try any suggestions!
 
Hi there, assuming that the fuel pump is delivering enough fuel, I would say you have a serious air leak somewhere in the emissions side of the carburettor or between the carb and the inlet manifold so giving a very very weak mixture. This is just my thoughts, and maybe another forum member might come up with a better reason. Regards Brian.
 
Sniffs of ignition to me. Points closed up. Actually, thinking about it a little further it could be a bunch of things - fuel supply problem even. Easiest way to diagnose is to sort the ignition side of things first, check points are less than 1 year old and have 0.4mm gap and that you have a spark.

Which R4 did you buy?
 
Good point Malcolm, pardon the pun, ignition problems seem the most likely. Condensers don't last long these days so shortening the life of the points. Electronic ignition is the future.
 
Hi Azazello, I think what Malcolm meant was that after a year of regular use points are past their best, and can give trouble.
 
Have you checked for leak at accelerating diaphragm at the carburetor?. I had that behavior in my car once and happend to be such rubber part.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I've had a prod around under the bonnet and I'm pretty baffled! Does anyone know a good mechanic in the Edinburgh area that might take a look at the problem for me!
 
Turns out it was the points after all! It's been fixed but the mechanic suggests they may need replaced soon along with the condensor. Apart from the post above, any recommendations for changing to something more reliable and less maintenance?
 
Hi there, the only way I reckon to get low maintenance and reliability is to convert to electronic ignition. Check out Aldon Ignitor too, but you will need a Ducellier dizzy for this as they don't do E I for the Femsa your car probably has fitted.
 
check on this website under TECHTIPS- electrical-changing the points. Its very well detailed. Points and condensor are also quite inexpensive
 
I'm having a look at boyer's site:
What does positive or negative earth mean? Is it related with the fact that the minus pole of the battery it connected with the car body?
 
If the positive terminal goes to the body then it's positive earth, if the negative is used it's negative earth!

Most vehicles are negative earth now.
 
Steve Hennessey said:
If the positive terminal goes to the body then it's positive earth, if the negative is used it's negative earth!

Most vehicles are negative earth now.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
My r4 is definitely negative earth.
There is some older r4 model positive earth?
 
Just received an answer from Boyer's - they will send me a kit for about 35£ P&P included.
I'm very tempted, because if it fails it will be very simple to turn back to the old point&condenser system, even during a trip.
Is there anybody here with personal experience with this product? Steve, maybe?
I wonder if it is the right choice... given the fact that the 123 is too expensive for me.
 
I have personally bought three of these. Fitted one to a Mini, one to my own R4 and the other to an R5 Mk1. All worked perfectly. You keep the points and condenser so if the unit did fail then it's a case of swapping a couple of wires over. The one on my R4 was giving good service until I sold it and no doubt it's still going strong.
 
Thank you very much; so I think this is the right compromise between a complete electronic distributor (that I cannot actually afford) and the normal one... I think I will proceed as soon as possible.
 
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