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Uneven revs...

C

Chris

Enthusiast
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Hi there everyone!


I'm just wondering if any of you have any suggestions regarding a niggly, annoying problem with my 4. It sounds like a similar problem to Philip on the post 'My Renault 4 keeps cutting out', but I'm not sure if it's the same as mine doesn't actually cut out!!!

Basically, the revs are slightly uneven, when the engine is both ticking over and through all the gears. It also feels a little like a slight loss of power as well, particularly on hills. It just doesn't run smoothly and isn't 100% happy.

The car has just had a brand-spanking new distributor fitted, points, condenser etc etc, so I think we can rule that out. (At least I hope so, otherwise I've just wasted a lot of money...!!!) It also had a new fuel pump fitted about 18 months-two years ago, but I still have an inkling it might be something fuel-related.....

Any suggestions/musings on this will be great!


Cheers for now,


Chris
 
Hi Steve,


I'm going to get the compressions etc checked after the weekend, and I'll tell you the news...

Last night I went for a curry with a friend in the Renault - got to the restaurant no problem. But afterwards, there was a little difficulty starting which hasn't happened before. Also, after driving just five miles back home, there was a kind of slight burning smell coming from the left side of the car, kind of burning rubber-type smell. As well as that, the left hand front wing and left hand side of the bonnet were really quite hot. Of course, the exhaust is on that side and I've never felt those parts of the car after a journey before, but it did seem unreasonably hot after such a short trip...

I thought the heat and the smell might be burning oil, but I've checked under the car this morning and there's no oil on the ground at all, and the oil level is fine.

Any thoughts, anyone??

Should I continue to drive locally, or is it going to blow up on me??!!!!!!!!!


All the best for now,



Chris
 
I've had the burning rubber thing before. Chances are it's the big rubber grommet at the rear bottom of the inner wing panel. This seems to sit very close to the exhaust downpipe.

I removed the grommet from my car and the burning rubber smell stopped.
 
A blown manifold gasket i a common problem on the R4, at least on the old R1123/R1126 engines. My engine calmed down a bit when i replaced the gasket. Worth a try, the gasket it cheap, and it wasn't such a big job as i imagined.
 
Hi, check the fuel tank is venting properly, the distributor vacuum unit is working ,check the engine breathers are not blocked and last of all fit another coil .
 
Sorry just had another thought ! what about the ignition timing ? sounds like the old girl just needs a good tune up .
 
Hi again, chaps!


Just a quick update on the uneven revs...

The car's been to see a really good engine-tuning guy. He checked everything, including all the various parts of the fuel system, and found that the problem, minor though it is, is to do with the carburretor. Everything else is fine now.

The compressions were high, up to 165-170, but that's sorted, but the problem with the carburretor is that at lower revs the mixture is a bit too lean. He also said that due to the type of carburretor it is, he can't adjust it to allow for this. (It hasn't got some adjustable jet-type-thingy, in my technical-speak!!)
Anyway, she's running much better, but that slight unevenness in revs is still there because of this little problem. Any thoughts?? Can I replace the carburretor with another, adjustable one...???


Thanks!


Chris
 
Chris, good to hear the compressions are OK.

Fit the Mk 1 R5 pumped carb set up. I've put a post on here ages ago and it reveals all. Do a search as I don't want to write it all over again!!

Steve
 
Hi,
if you fit a sevicable standard R4 carb and have it all set up properly the cars run superb .I personally am not a big believer in practise of swopping about parts from other models.Renault would not have spent hours and money on development and produced a car with the wrong carb .My money is that you vacuum advance unit Diaphram is split and allowing the carb to draw in extra air creating a lean mixture on idle.
I can supply a good standard carb if that helps but i think this is not your problem in the regards of it running properly.
 
Thanks, Steve & Liam.

I'll check out the vacuum pump and see what's what, then get back to you. It IS frustrating because having had two R4s before, I know only too well how great they can and should run!!!!


Speak soon,


Chris
 
You can check the vacuum advance very easily by taking the distributor cap off. Then unplug the vacuum hose from the carb and suck on the pipe. The distributor base plate should rotate (and stay there for a little while).

My R4 is uneven at idle. Fair enough it's angling for some new points, but off idle it's perfect. Does anyone else have one that hums perfectly evenly at idle? If so I'm doing something wrong.

On the throttle the cars should be OK. If not I'd be looking at air leaks and the vacuum advance.

Any idea why it wasn't starting. Was that fixed or is it related?
 
Hi,
have got my wifes GTL to run great on idle .The carb does need playing with when it comes to gaining perfect idling .Just altering the idle speed slightly can really throw out the mixture .It really helps if you have a good CO metre to read whats happening at the exhaust pipe.Try to get friendly with your local MOT test station and see if you can let you use the machine over say a lunch hour .I set my idle at around the 750 rpm mark and the CO [Mixture] at around the 1.5 % but allowing for wear and tear if the car sounds good at 2.5 % then leave it at that.
 
Hi again!


Since having the new dizzy fitted and having the car professionally tuned by a local guy who remembers R4s, she starts first time every time and, as I said, runs SOOOO much better.

I think I still notice the slight unevenness at low revs because when I first got the car last year she ran really smooth. It's actually good to hear that other 4s also run a little unevenly - it's not just me!! I'll follow Liam's advice above and see what happens, but it's not a pressing issue as everything else seems fine.

Going off at a tangent, Liam - many thanks for the bits & bobs you sent. I've since pored over my Haynes manual and there is absolutely NOTHING in there about replacing wing-mirrors!!!! I'm guessing that you remove the interior door trim and then try to crane your neck at some strange angle to get at the necessary screws, etc. It must be such a simple job, but if anyone can quickly explain the best way I'd be really grateful... I just can't wait to have the luxury of TWO wing-mirrors!!!!


Many thanks,


Chris
 
Wing mirrors are fairly easy. For the GTL there is a plastic cover over the mounting where the mirror attaches to the door. The cover pops off to reveal two torx head screws. The screws are very long, and normally will undo fairly easily, but you might need to pull the door trim off to spray penetrating fluid on the threads.
 
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