Well, we got the car looked out in the warehouse it is (which is soon to collapse :s ) and got a new tyre to it and stuff. My dad tried to pull it to see if it could be pushed out the warehouse, but it didn't actually move even an inch. So is there any possibility that the 20 of basicly keeping it in the warehouse might've broke the brakes, corrode them or something? Or is it possible that the engine is somehow struck, and wont let the wheels turn?
- Thread starter Sunny
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malcolm
& Clementine the Cat
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Drum brakes will seize on if the car hasn't been moved for some time. The drum corrodes and sticks to the brake shoes.
To unseize the brakes remove the wheel. Put penetrating fluid on the adjusters (and maybe heat) and back them off. Release the handbrake.
Then give the brake drum several sharp taps with a hammer all the way around the drum. Try tapping the back plate too, but be careful not to dent it. The drum might free off and be able to turn.
If not, try it some more and a little harder.
To unseize the brakes remove the wheel. Put penetrating fluid on the adjusters (and maybe heat) and back them off. Release the handbrake.
Then give the brake drum several sharp taps with a hammer all the way around the drum. Try tapping the back plate too, but be careful not to dent it. The drum might free off and be able to turn.
If not, try it some more and a little harder.
angel
Enthusiast
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Seems that your wheel cylinders have seized for good... There is another method, not so gentle as hammering. You will need a strong three-legged puller.
Rear wheels are a little easier. Remove the wheel, the grease cap on the centre of the drum, the split pin, and the 24mm nut. Back off the brake shoe adjusters (10mm square heads, and I will not be surprised if they are seized, too). Now try to extract the drum with the puller, by placing its claws over the ridge on the drum periphery. More than likely you will damage the brake shoes, but it is pointless trying to rescue them anyway. Better still if you disconnect the wheel cylinder hydraulic union and remove the wheel cylinder locating bolts (10mm) so that the wheel cylinder is free to come out.
The front drums can be extracted in the same manner, but you will discover that the wheel cylinder bolts cannot be loosened (you must loosen the backplate first-another story...). Make sure that, before you start pulling the drum, you have removed the locating setscrews (3 cross-headed ones on each drum). These can also be hard to come loose, and you may need an impact screwdriver, too.
Rear wheels are a little easier. Remove the wheel, the grease cap on the centre of the drum, the split pin, and the 24mm nut. Back off the brake shoe adjusters (10mm square heads, and I will not be surprised if they are seized, too). Now try to extract the drum with the puller, by placing its claws over the ridge on the drum periphery. More than likely you will damage the brake shoes, but it is pointless trying to rescue them anyway. Better still if you disconnect the wheel cylinder hydraulic union and remove the wheel cylinder locating bolts (10mm) so that the wheel cylinder is free to come out.
The front drums can be extracted in the same manner, but you will discover that the wheel cylinder bolts cannot be loosened (you must loosen the backplate first-another story...). Make sure that, before you start pulling the drum, you have removed the locating setscrews (3 cross-headed ones on each drum). These can also be hard to come loose, and you may need an impact screwdriver, too.
Thanks, I'll see when I'll be abled to do that with my dad. Also got that little oval number thingie posted, as you ask in my introduction thread. But is your guide here advicing to remove all the stuff from inside the drum brake, and just put it back togethor, without having anything init?
