1977 R4 TL restoration made in France

[malcolm]

Worth a read of the 2K section of the paint safety page on the mig welding forum: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-safety.htm There's a link from there to a thread by someone who has big health troubles through spraying it just once.

Having said that I much prefer the paint. I have the air fed mask but generally have someone else do the spraying.

 

[Rutger-peer]

I have painted my car myself with 2k paint. I used a pretty professional paintmask, but it wasn't after the whole job that I heard you should use an airfed mask (mine only had coal-filters). The sprayingcabin I used was pretty big and had a few leaks and air was being sucked away by 2 ventilators, so I guess there wasn't too much haze staying around in there so I probably didn't get the full load of paint to inhale. Anyway, I'm still alive and my paintmask is yellow. But after what I read on Malcolm's site, I would recommend everybody to use sufficient protection (and would do so myself if I were to paint another car).

 

[Snoopy1974]

Personnaly, I will stop my job with the primer, Gérard, my "carrossier" (sorry, don't know the good word in english) will paint the car, and as orsome said, he will use 2k paint

 

[orsome]

"K painting and masks

Personnaly, I will stop my job with the primer, Gérard, my "carrossier" (sorry, don't know the good word in english) will paint the car, and as orsome said, he will use 2k paint

**As Rutger-peer said, i had also a pretty proffs mask but without additional fresh air feed. What i did was a 400ml spray bottle only(two component content and it had a push button on bottom, push it and mix heavily and you had few hours to spray it.)

**But more i would not recommend to spray yourselves in a normal garage, even i had made quite good protection on other parts, all plces went green in some extent.Place must have real in7out vent systems with filtration.

It is always good to let someone else to do the nasty jobs

 

[Rutger-peer]

Alexandre, it's a good choice to have your carrossier do it. But maybe in that case it's also wise to let him do the primer as well, since that's the base, which has to be good. If you don't have a spraying cabin at your disposal, you might find it hard to put on a good layer of primer (with all the dust flying around). Also the de-greasing etc. has to be done really well. So if you're already have him do the spraying, then why not let him do the primer as well. Just a thought, you might consider it. Anyway, good luck! I'm curious about the results.

 

[Snoopy1974]

I'm curious about the results.

I decided that I'm going to paint the different parts actually in Rustol by myself, no matter the result, actually the only important thing is to pass the CT. Anyway, the body will be completly dismantled, repaired, and painted by Gerard during the "real" restoration later.

Today the temperature was exceptionaly "hot", 10°C So I sanded the other rusty parts: the rear panel and the bulkhead, under the windscreen:



Contrary to the doors I made that by hand, and only with eccentric sander, 80, 120 and 180; the result is the surface is smooth and without defect or hollows. Good job but longer than last times with the grinder :shock:

 

[iMacThere4iAm]

Talking of sanding, for those in the UK Lidl have random orbital sanders in stock at the moment for £15. I don't know what the quality is like, but if you're cash-strapped like me it might be time to get one!

 

[Snoopy1974]

Hi

Today the temperature was about 10°C, so I decided to finish the job with the Rustol, I started to sand the right rocker panel, bad surprises on it, during sanding several little holes appeared

The surface of the roof also didn't suit me, so I sanded it with 180 before applying a last thin coat of Rustol.

The wind was very strong today, so I painted the car in my outer little garage.

Few minutes after starting the job... disaster on the top of the rear panel :eek: :eek:

I finished the job before parking the car in the house garage, I'm going to leave the paint drying before applying a primer.



Can anybody here tell me what I can do with problem exposed above ??...

 

[Rutger-peer]

Hey Alexandre, that looks an awful lot like silicone contamination! The dots in paint that are caused by silicone contamination are often referred to as "fisheyes". Those are caused by silicone on the surface that you want to paint. The paint doesn't attach to silicone and it actually repulsed by silicone, leaving little dots where no paint sticks on.

You can avoid fisheyes in your paint by using a good degreasingproduct with silicon remover in it. I used M600, which is a degreasingproduct from Motip, don't know if that brand is known outside the Netherlands. But that also takes care of silicone contamination.

It might also be caused by some other source of contamination. Can you remember using any kind of spray or cleaning/polishing product on that spot of your car? It might well be that you didn't fully manage to remove it. What do you use for cleaning and degreasing your car before painting?

PS: Polishing products may be especially nasty to remove from surfaces you want to paint. I used one that, even after i thouroughly removed it, left fisheye-like spots on that particular panel.

 

[Rutger-peer]

Oh, about any sulotion to the problem ...

I think you best wait till the paint dries, then clean the surface really well with some degreaser/silicone remover, then sand the area down again so you remove all the contamination and then respray it.

 

[barnfind]

If you follow this link it takes you to Malcolm's other website, which has a section on painting and refers to this problem.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/paint-faults.htm

 

[Rutger-peer]

I forgot to mention that, I see now... that's a very useful link.

 

[Snoopy1974]

Oh yes, I already saw this link and I find it very useful, thanks you !

 

[Snoopy1974]

Hi everybody,

recently I decided to make a test on the rear door, considering I still really don't know how to correct the little holes due to rust, I wanted to see if I could apply this famous filler primer on my Rustol whithout problem...

The rear door is damaged inside, I will have to cut the rusty areas and make patches in steel sheet, so if my test is a disaster, it doesn't matter

I bought a gravity spray gun with 2,5 mm nozzle to make good job, then I started to sand the Rustol with 240 dry paper to improve the adherence of the filler primer:


Here is the product I used, the Raderal 3508 from Spies Hecker, I spayed the rear door of my 77 in the same time than the fiberglas wings and inner wings of my GTL:


After 2 coats with about 15 min between each one, the rear door is now primary coated, and the good surprise, contrary to the speech of the seller, the Rustol doesn't peel off, all seems to be ok And the famous result I waited for is that the holes disappeared under this "liquid filler"

After fews days I sanded it with 240, and then 400 dry paper before applying the final coat of PPG primer, it is now ready to paint, I hope it won't have reaction in long time, actually none fault is present...


This saturday I decided to make the same job on the roof, so I did the same as the rear door:


Some holes are still present but I think when I will sand the primer, its thickness will allow to remove them.

 

[pepper]

We use a product called stopper here to fill what we call pitting, if isn't quite a hole but needs to be smoothed out otherwise it will really show through in the top coats!

 

[pepper]

Or it can be called knifing putty

 

[malcolm]

It's looking really good! I would use ordinary body filler on the rust pitting as the primer won't be thick enough to hide the pitting.

 

[pepper]

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/body-filler.htm

Here's some of Malcolms own tips

,

 

[Rutger-peer]

My experience is that those fillers are pretty thick and if you don't mind spending some money on it, it might be worthwile to apply a few coats of it, sanding each one of them down to flatten out the surface, before applying the next coat. At least, if there is a big surface affected by pitting. Might actually safe a lot of time compared to using regular body filler (knifing putty) because you can make nice, even layers.

I'm curious about the eventual result and I hope the whole 2k-on-top-of-Rustol thing will turn out to also not cause problems in the future!

 

[DavidN]

Great Job Alexandre !!!
Looks damn good !!!

Now I understand why I heard nothing about that little thing in Poissy ...

Cheers,

David