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best oil for the job

over here in Norwayland we use oil from right outside in the North-sea which has been stored for Millions of year... All pun intended!
If your Duckham oil has been stored as you say in sealed containers there is NO danger using it.. Even if stored in subZero temp OR in
cozy temps in the foot-end of your bed under the duvee No problem..oil will not be damaged or degraded as Both high and low temp
IS the intended environment for which oil is intended to be used.....
 
Stored for millions of years, yes, but since then treated and with other chemicals added which can degrade and separate out of the oil itself, making the oil unsuitable for it's designed purpose.
 
AdamWilkes said:
Stored for millions of years, yes, but since then treated and with other chemicals added which can degrade and separate out of the oil itself, making the oil unsuitable for it's designed purpose.
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Thanks chaps. Yes, it's the additives that worry me. I'll keep one tub to keep my oil can topped up (should be ok for door hinges) and chuck the other. As someone said, it's simply not worth the risk.
 
angel said:
Motor oil is not milk and will not expire after time. Especially if it's kept in a sealed container. I would use it.
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TOTAL Lubricants says:
"Under optimal conditions (stored in the original, unopened containers at moderate temperatures), motor oil usually remains stable for an extended period of time. There should not be deposits on the bottom of the container. You cannot redissolve the deposits by simply shaking the container. The oil has to be replaced.
That said, an engine oil’s properties are best if it is used within two years. After that, we recommend replacing the oil."

However, ELF Oil says:"You are probably wondering if you can still use cans of oil which seems old: the oil is usable as long as it is sealed, stored in a cool dry location and no water or dirt has gotten in the bottles. "
 
The funny part is that Elf and Total are essentially the same company!

Eccles60 was talking about Duckhams 20W-50 mineral, not some fancy synthetic stuff full of additives that may condense and/or separate from the rest of the oil.
 
If it were my Duckhams oil it would certainly get used, i am still using a can of 60 year old 5 gallon tub of Century Oils grease which I received form my father when he no longer needed it, waste not want not. Or perhaps i am just a bit careful with money.
 
angel said:
The funny part is that Elf and Total are essentially the same company!

Eccles60 was talking about Duckhams 20W-50 mineral, not some fancy synthetic stuff full of additives that may condense and/or separate from the rest of the oil.
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That's an intriguing idea, but I just looked up Wikipedia (sometimes more trustworthy than our lovely politicians), and they say:
"Nearly all commercial motor oils contain additives, whether the oils are synthetic or petroleum based. Essentially, only the American Petroleum Institute (API) Service SA motor oils have no additives, and they are therefore incapable of protecting modern engines. " (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive ) It's funny stuff, is oil.
 
I'm even more confused than normal. If I decant the oil and it doesn't seem separated or contaminated, do I use it or not? Zinc seems important, does Duckhams of 2006/7 vintage contain enough for my humble GTL?
 
The old R4's use mineral oil as synthetic didn't really exist in those days, so the old R4's can perform well using Extra Virgine Olive oil, or for higher temperature tolerance even peanut oil ;).
Just kidding, just use that old mineral oil grade 20W50 is fine for all types R4.
 
There is a famous urban legend about two guys travelling in the '60s through Africa on a 2CV, breaking the crankcase and losing all the oil, and making it back by filling it with squashed bananas!!
 
I use a valvoline mineral 20W-50 at 21£ for 4 litres, and have not had any high oil-consumption or other issues between 104000km (when I bought it) and the current 137000 ish km. Only thing I've noticed is that it was very sluggish when starting at wintertime last year, but it has only behaved like that 1 out of 5 years :dontknow:
 
Digging up an old tread, I know.

But need to know if you guys have similar problems.
My 782cc 1126 1975 engine had an overhaul 20.000km ago. I changed oil 3 times now.
Today I took off the rocker cover because I hear the valves more and more so needs adjusting.
Then I saw a lot of black sticky goo every where. This is not to my liking after only 20.000 km or so.
I use Kroon 20w-50 mineral oil. Thinking this is good oil for my engine. ( it's an engine without the oil filter)
Now I want an oil filter ( can't find the adapter anywhere) and maybe change to synthetic oil in the 20w range to see if this helps.

Can somebody point me to a adapter source for the filter?
Is semi or full synthetic oil a good or bad idea?
 
angel said:
Millions of R4s over its almost 60 years of existence have done hundreds of millions of kilometers, most of them on single grade mineral oil, and having changed a lot of oil formulation along this time span. I doubt there was a single engine failure caused by inferior oil quality. The lubrication system of this engine is designed around '50s oil technology, and should not need any more than a good mineral oil. There is a good point of argument here, mineral oils of the past were primary products of crude oil, not recycled like today's, but even so, today's low detergent and additive stuff is fine.
There are no weak links in our lubrication system, and points that do not receive hydrostatic lubrication like camshaft/followers or rocker gear are very well conceived and need no further attention, lubricant-wise. Talk about this with a Simca or Ford Pinto Escort owner for example, and you are going to hear horror stories!
Synthetic or synthetic blend oils are a definite no for using in engines without an oil filter, as is the case on pre-70s R4s. The detergent additives in these continuously flush the lubrication system, which is good, but debris, sludge etc. is meant to end in the - efficient - oil filter of the modern engine. Without this, they float around in the oil and usually end up on a main or big end bearing.
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I think this covers the synthetic part of my question. Makes sense to me so going to stick to mineral. At least until I find the part to fit a filter. Thanks Angel.
 
Crelesy said:
Digging up an old tread, I know.

But need to know if you guys have similar problems.
My 782cc 1126 1975 engine had an overhaul 20.000km ago. I changed oil 3 times now.
Today I took off the rocker cover because I hear the valves more and more so needs adjusting.
Then I saw a lot of black sticky goo every where. This is not to my liking after only 20.000 km or so.
I use Kroon 20w-50 mineral oil. Thinking this is good oil for my engine. ( it's an engine without the oil filter)
Now I want an oil filter ( can't find the adapter anywhere) and maybe change to synthetic oil in the 20w range to see if this helps.

Can somebody point me to a adapter source for the filter?
Is semi or full synthetic oil a good or bad idea?
Click to expand...
Any good?
https://vehicules-anciens.fr/fr/shop/product/view/955/8516 (Please double-check with them!)
20240809_102641.jpg
 
In the absence of a filter I would change the oil every 1,000 miles. Idk I were you I should use Castrol Magnetic 10W40, which I've always found a really good oil for classic engines. Remember to flush the engine with flushing oil first, as this will shift any crud around the valves & the oil ways.
 
According to the old instruction manuels, oil change every 5000 km or 3107 mi.
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Thanks for the reply.
So I need to change oil more often. And maybe change to thinner oil as well? I thought it was 20W according to the manuals and better for leack protection as my engine has no oil seals.
 
As your Renault does NOT have filter the oil isn't being cleaned, so it will become dirty more quickly. The French article produced here says to change the oil every 5,000 Km (or 3,100 miles) but I've always believed in changing it more than the manufacturer says, so I would half that and change it every 2,500 Kms, or 1,550 miles. Once you've drained the old oil, replace the sump plug and then add flushing oil to the maximum level on the dipstick. Run the engine at tick-over for 10-15 minutes and then drain that oil out and only then add the correct grade engine oil. Oil technology has moved on since the Renault 4 was built and I can only speak from personal experience, that being that Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 has always served my classic cars very well.
 
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