Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
home my cars restoration tech tips guides forum
Réparateur d'automobiles

Cam Distributor Shaft Replacement

Thanks. I did find parts on eBay and replaced the gear and got the distributor all back on. -line. I adjusted the point and have a dwell about 58 but will recheck and retime. It’s an r284 distributor and still runs crappy so not sure if the carb is next problem. It’s a solex 26. I’m not sure I can post a short clip but will try. Thanks for all your help.
 
Hi, here’s the latest: I out the gear in and timed it and it starts like a charm and very happy about that. Now the oil pressure light stays on. I checked the wires, got a new sensor and still stays on. I dropped the pan and cleaned up the dump and actually replaced the oil pump.
Now I’m not sure how much oil pressure I actually have and concerned about running it.
Is it possible the oil channels are blocked? Is it possible the pump is not pumping because the shaft is not aligned or engaging?
I thought about putting a gauge on to measure what I get for pressure ?
I was going to drop the pan again and check if the oil pump shaft is turning ?
I’m just stuck on this and welcome any advice.
I’m thrilled it starts and seems to run well but don’t want to run it without oil pressure? Or at least the light on?
 
This may sound like a silly question, but bear with me:
Switch on the ignition but DON'T start the engine. The oil pressure warning light should now be ON. With the ignition still on, disconnect the wire from the pressure sensor in the engine block. The warning light should now be OFF. If the light's still ON the fault lies in the wiring somewhere, which we can sort out.

You could remove the oil pressure sensor from the engine block and run the starter motor for a few seconds. You should see oil spurting from the hole. If it is, then there's oil running round the engine. If it's NOT, then, to quote N.A.S.A., "we have a problem", but I'm certain we can solve it!
 
André4Renaults said:
This may sound like a silly question, but bear with me:
Switch on the ignition but DON'T start the engine. The oil pressure warning light should now be ON. With the ignition still on, disconnect the wire from the pressure sensor in the engine block. The warning light should now be OFF. If the light's still ON the fault lies in the wiring somewhere, which we can sort out.

You could remove the oil pressure sensor from the engine block and run the starter motor for a few seconds. You should see oil spurting from the hole. If it is, then there's oil running round the engine. If it's NOT, then, to quote N.A.S.A., "we have a problem", but I'm certain we can solve it!
Click to expand...
Thank you. I did disconnect the wire and the light went off. I hadn’t thought about removing the sensor and seeing if oil spurts from the hole. Good idea. I’ll give that a try. If all else fails I’ll drop the pan and see if I can disassemble the oil pump enough to see it spins off the cam. Does that make sense? Thanks again!
 
Don't forget on the early engines the oil pressure sensor and temperature sensor share the same warning light. A short on the temperature sensor wire can cause all sorts of worry - it runs close to the exhaust and will burn through and short if it touches. Though if removing the oil sensor wire turns the light off it'll be that that's triggering the warning light.

The distributor drive does drive the oil pump too so I can understand the worry. Sounds like you have a good plan to check things before running the engine too much.
 
malcolm said:
Don't forget on the early engines the oil pressure sensor and temperature sensor share the same warning light. A short on the temperature sensor wire can cause all sorts of worry - it runs close to the exhaust and will burn through and short if it touches. Though if removing the oil sensor wire turns the light off it'll be that that's triggering the warning light.
Click to expand...
I'd forgotten about that. Water-cooled Dafs used 1100 & 1300cc Renault engines and the wiring was identical, producing the same effect.
 
André4Renaults said:
I'd forgotten about that. Water-cooled Dafs used 1100 & 1300cc Renault engines and the wiring was identical, producing the same effect.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I didn’t know that and will check the temp sensor wire too. I’ll have an update this weekend. I appreciate the advice. It’s a worry until I know otherwise. Thanks!!
 
Help again,
I need more help. I confirmed that the oil shaft pump was not turning. I then removed the distributor and gear and compared the old broken tooth one to the new one. For some reason the splines do not go far enough down or it’s just worn out.
I need a new distributor cam.
Any suggestions on how I can get one?
Many thanks in advance !
Bill

IMG_0549.jpeg IMG_0548.jpeg IMG_0547.jpeg
 
Final Update. I thought I would share that I got a newer distributor CAM with good working splines from Angel and very happy to say, it's running well and no oil pressure lights....and the engine is running pretty good. It seems like its running rich but that's another post.
Just a note of THANKS to all the help this forum has provided. I'm grateful it's up and running !!!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Community platform by XenForo® © 2010-2024 XenForo Ltd.
Back
Top