- Thread starter Tomcat
- Start date
harbourseal
Renault R4 Lunatic
- Messages
- 1,049
- Location
- Breda The Netherlands
Hi Tom,
That isn't an easy conversion
You need
2 brake discs
2 disc brake calipers and the brackets that hold them
2 other wheel hubs (the rounded of triangular type) the round ones on the drum brakes won't do.
2 sets of brake pads for disc brakes
2 sets of anti rattle springs
Maybe a new set of wheels. The older type of wheels rub against the calipers. GTL wheels and alloys are fine.
You need to move the handbrake to the back-wheels
You need
2 other back wheel anchor plates suitable for handbrake
2 long handbrake cables
A handbrake assembly for in between the front seats.
If you are lucky you might be able to find a special conversion kit. Then you can leave the handbrake handle on the firewall.
orderlist
Product Aantal Totaal
2 front wheel hub L=R ( syst. Schijfrem)
€ 93,00
2 handbrake cables L=R 4 GTL - Clan - R4F4 - Savanne mod 84->
€ 29,00
brake caliper Bendix L ( 87,50 + 35,- statiegeld )
€ 122,50
brake caliper Bendix R ( 87,50 + 35,- statiegeld )
€ 122,50
Set of disc brakes
€ 56,50
-58%
brake pads Bendix , prod. Delco
€ 12,25
anti rattle springs syst. Bendix (set)
€ 19,75
Total € 455,50
This doesn't include the brake caliper brackets, the handbrake assembly and the rear brake anchor plates. Those you'll have to take from the scrapyard
That isn't an easy conversion
You need
2 brake discs
2 disc brake calipers and the brackets that hold them
2 other wheel hubs (the rounded of triangular type) the round ones on the drum brakes won't do.
2 sets of brake pads for disc brakes
2 sets of anti rattle springs
Maybe a new set of wheels. The older type of wheels rub against the calipers. GTL wheels and alloys are fine.
You need to move the handbrake to the back-wheels
You need
2 other back wheel anchor plates suitable for handbrake
2 long handbrake cables
A handbrake assembly for in between the front seats.
If you are lucky you might be able to find a special conversion kit. Then you can leave the handbrake handle on the firewall.
orderlist
Product Aantal Totaal
2 front wheel hub L=R ( syst. Schijfrem)
€ 93,00
2 handbrake cables L=R 4 GTL - Clan - R4F4 - Savanne mod 84->
€ 29,00
brake caliper Bendix L ( 87,50 + 35,- statiegeld )
€ 122,50
brake caliper Bendix R ( 87,50 + 35,- statiegeld )
€ 122,50
Set of disc brakes
€ 56,50
-58%
brake pads Bendix , prod. Delco
€ 12,25
anti rattle springs syst. Bendix (set)
€ 19,75
Total € 455,50
This doesn't include the brake caliper brackets, the handbrake assembly and the rear brake anchor plates. Those you'll have to take from the scrapyard
angel
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 2,534
- Location
- Athens, Greece
If you have 160mm rear wheel drums, you will need a pair of 180mm ones, in order to fit the backplates with the handbrake provision.The front stub axle carriers are also different fro the disc brake models, you will also need a pair of them.
In general, it's better to obtain all parts as a lot from a scrapyard, then replace wheel cylinders, caliper seals, and brake pads and possibly discs with new ones.
In general, it's better to obtain all parts as a lot from a scrapyard, then replace wheel cylinders, caliper seals, and brake pads and possibly discs with new ones.
mr-reno-139
AKA Paul Cunningham
- Messages
- 2,268
- Location
- lancing west sussex england
3 Facebook groups and I come back here and Tom has posted here as well
Thomas Vinnicombe
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 25
- Location
- chichester
Goodness gracious me that's a lot of kit. I did mention it to Paul yesterday and he seemed to like the original wheels so will stick with that for the moment. Thanks though I will keep that list for future reference.
I’m not sure of my ground here.
So don’t flame me. We didn’t get later models of the R4 here in Australia.
I thought that the early models had a spring loaded steering rack and a (predetermined) steering camber that was dictated by (mainly) the length of the lower wishbone.
Later models had a different steering rack and lower wishbone (and torsion bars) as I understand.
So my thought is that, replacing the cast iron upright to allow for the caliper, will change the steering geometry. I did not think that they were interchangeable.
I’m happy to be corrected, as the possibility of an easy retrofit would give a few people here something to play with.
So don’t flame me. We didn’t get later models of the R4 here in Australia.
I thought that the early models had a spring loaded steering rack and a (predetermined) steering camber that was dictated by (mainly) the length of the lower wishbone.
Later models had a different steering rack and lower wishbone (and torsion bars) as I understand.
So my thought is that, replacing the cast iron upright to allow for the caliper, will change the steering geometry. I did not think that they were interchangeable.
I’m happy to be corrected, as the possibility of an easy retrofit would give a few people here something to play with.
Tomcat
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 968
- Location
- Milton Keynes
Paul.
I only asked the question on 1 group on Facebook.
My belief is that the people on RCCC and on here vary and so I will get a better set of comments.
All knowledge is good!!
Tomcat
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 968
- Location
- Milton Keynes
Hi Tom,
That isn't an easy conversion
You need
2 brake discs
2 disc brake calipers and the brackets that hold them
2 other wheel hubs (the rounded of triangular type) the round ones on the drum brakes won't do.
2 sets of brake pads for disc brakes
2 sets of anti rattle springs
Maybe a new set of wheels. The older type of wheels rub against the calipers. GTL wheels and alloys are fine.
You need to move the handbrake to the back-wheels
You need
2 other back wheel anchor plates suitable for handbrake
2 long handbrake cables
A handbrake assembly for in between the front seats.
If you are lucky you might be able to find a special conversion kit. Then you can leave the handbrake handle on the firewall.
orderlist
Product Aantal Totaal
2 front wheel hub L=R ( syst. Schijfrem)
€ 93,00
2 handbrake cables L=R 4 GTL - Clan - R4F4 - Savanne mod 84->
€ 29,00
brake caliper Bendix L ( 87,50 + 35,- statiegeld )
€ 122,50
brake caliper Bendix R ( 87,50 + 35,- statiegeld )
€ 122,50
Set of disc brakes
€ 56,50
-58%
brake pads Bendix , prod. Delco
€ 12,25
anti rattle springs syst. Bendix (set)
€ 19,75
Total € 455,50
This doesn't include the brake caliper brackets, the handbrake assembly and the rear brake anchor plates. Those you'll have to take from the scrapyard
Robert
Thank you for the very exhaustive list of items. Very much appreciated.
Best regards
Tom
Tomcat
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 968
- Location
- Milton Keynes
Angel
Thank you for your informative comments.
angel
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 2,534
- Location
- Athens, Greece
To David: Your thought is right, but it is possible to replace the complete front suspension, including the upright wishbone carriers which are different, in order to fit front disc brakes.
But then, moving to the rear brakes, you will find that neither the brake backplate, nor the wheel bearings of the large drums are compatible with the early suspension arms, so the whole rear axle will need to be replaced...
But then, moving to the rear brakes, you will find that neither the brake backplate, nor the wheel bearings of the large drums are compatible with the early suspension arms, so the whole rear axle will need to be replaced...
I have recently upgraded the rear hubs and brakes on my Renault 4F (fourgonette van) using Renault 5 components. It was an interesting job taking about a month of evenings and weekends including waiting for parts (wheel bearings) from der Fanzose in Germany.
But let's take a look at why I had to do it. I bought the car with front wheels already upgraded to Renault 5 disc brakes. This meant that I had no handbrake - 4L has hubs and handbrakes on the front wheels whilst 5 has discs on front and drums with handbrakes at rear.
Here's what I did:
1. find an old Renault 5 and remove its backing plates, slave cylinders, shoes, hubs, handbrake cables and floor mounted handbrake. Make sure you don't lose the little horseshoe insert that holds the front end of the cables.
2. remove the R4 wheels, hubs, shoes and backing plates. Use a hammer/screwdriver and lever to remove the inner wheel bearings by removing the backing plate 4 bolts and levering behind the backing plate. You'll most probably damage the inner wheel bearings so order a new set from dealers such as Der Franzose or Melun Retro Passion. I got a better price from Germany and, being in South Africa, DHL offer a great delivery service. At the same time have the slave cylinders serviced.
3. bolt the Renault 5 backing plates onto the axles (use the R4 bolts), install the inner bearings (I heat at 100 deg C for 20 minutes in the oven). Bolt the R5 slave cylinders onto the backing plates, and install just the brake shoe on each side which has the lever for the handbrake (the rear one).
4. Have new handbrake cables made using the old fittings. I wanted to control my new handbrakes from the old dash mounted lever. An alternative would be to make and install the handbrake on the floor. My cables were 3.5m left and 3.7m right and are best routed from the lever mount beneath the alternator under the steering pinion and around the front of the gearbox, then under the car, over the front ant-roll bar, cable tie to underneath the car and onto the rear torsion bars to then enter the backing plates.
5. Install the handbrake cable onto the shoe lever first then install the other shoe and springs. Check for free movement of the lever when pulling up the handbrake. If the cables are too long, take up the slack on the brake handle lever which has three holes and if too short have the cables lengthened slightly. This is unfortunately a trial and error process. I got it right on the second attempt.
6. Install the hubs, the outer bearings and axle nuts using no grease at this stage.
7. Set the brakes by moving the adjustment castellated nuts until they are just touching and the handbrake stops the movement completely.
8. Bleed the brakes.
9. Now grease the bearings and install the axle washers and nuts and dust cover before putting the wheels back on.
10. Test drive and celebrate your achievement.
Good luck!
But let's take a look at why I had to do it. I bought the car with front wheels already upgraded to Renault 5 disc brakes. This meant that I had no handbrake - 4L has hubs and handbrakes on the front wheels whilst 5 has discs on front and drums with handbrakes at rear.
Here's what I did:
1. find an old Renault 5 and remove its backing plates, slave cylinders, shoes, hubs, handbrake cables and floor mounted handbrake. Make sure you don't lose the little horseshoe insert that holds the front end of the cables.
2. remove the R4 wheels, hubs, shoes and backing plates. Use a hammer/screwdriver and lever to remove the inner wheel bearings by removing the backing plate 4 bolts and levering behind the backing plate. You'll most probably damage the inner wheel bearings so order a new set from dealers such as Der Franzose or Melun Retro Passion. I got a better price from Germany and, being in South Africa, DHL offer a great delivery service. At the same time have the slave cylinders serviced.
3. bolt the Renault 5 backing plates onto the axles (use the R4 bolts), install the inner bearings (I heat at 100 deg C for 20 minutes in the oven). Bolt the R5 slave cylinders onto the backing plates, and install just the brake shoe on each side which has the lever for the handbrake (the rear one).
4. Have new handbrake cables made using the old fittings. I wanted to control my new handbrakes from the old dash mounted lever. An alternative would be to make and install the handbrake on the floor. My cables were 3.5m left and 3.7m right and are best routed from the lever mount beneath the alternator under the steering pinion and around the front of the gearbox, then under the car, over the front ant-roll bar, cable tie to underneath the car and onto the rear torsion bars to then enter the backing plates.
5. Install the handbrake cable onto the shoe lever first then install the other shoe and springs. Check for free movement of the lever when pulling up the handbrake. If the cables are too long, take up the slack on the brake handle lever which has three holes and if too short have the cables lengthened slightly. This is unfortunately a trial and error process. I got it right on the second attempt.
6. Install the hubs, the outer bearings and axle nuts using no grease at this stage.
7. Set the brakes by moving the adjustment castellated nuts until they are just touching and the handbrake stops the movement completely.
8. Bleed the brakes.
9. Now grease the bearings and install the axle washers and nuts and dust cover before putting the wheels back on.
10. Test drive and celebrate your achievement.
Good luck!