electrical problems

[orsome]

won't start 2

- Brake ligths do'nt work-i do have that hydraulic switch with two cables,
- register back ligth not working.


I just wonder should i have two red ligths on the instrument panel when inginition is turned on -or just one?
Today i have non red ligths- can it really be so good oil pressuire with new parts that it holds pressure enough owernigth?

I doubt the alternator ?

Earthing-should i have a wowen widw cable going from gearbox to RHS FRAME BEAM?- SEEN SOME OF r4'S HAVING SUCH
I'll have tomorrow net points+capasitator(condensator?) plus new candles.

changed the remaining 23years old gasoline
to few liters fresh one.
- gas pump is working and giving feed to filter-OK

tested ignition with two old spark plugs-no spark
-tested spark with one new spark plug-no spark identified


whe:eek:re to searh ?[/QUOTE]

 

[iMacThere4iAm]

Do you have a multimeter? They are cheap and very useful for finding electrical faults.

 

[orsome]

multimeter

Do you have a multimeter? They are cheap and very useful for finding electrical faults.

**yes i do and have measured everything according to Ingo Heitel's book, resistance Ohms from distributor cablings, voltage from ignition coil, tried to seek spark according his instructions but nothing.

Yesterday i succeeded to ligthen up inner ligth and also brake ligths, it was very odd reason; both cable ends were so contamined /cooroded that electric did not go trough even i took those cables ot from brake sensor and connected them with each other when ignition on II-position.Only after some scrubbing the surface i did the rear ligths take action.OK, no wonder after no use for 23years.
I found the same on ignition coil connections when i outplug the cables, all metal surfaces were cooroted very badly.No action even after this one.I did check all fueses.They are are well.

I am just wondering whre hell the red oil ligth vanished after my first rotations with renewed parts.

I still have no final answer whre the minus thread from ignition coil should be connected? Other one goes to batt+ ? I actually have connected the same way SNOOPY instructed me "...And the wiring which is connected from the coil to the ignition distributor (sorry the picture is blurred)"


I think is is trange that also minus end gives plus current from coil when ignition is in position II-should it be so?

Is it coil problem?

 

[iMacThere4iAm]

According to the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, the one wire from the coil should be connected to the ignition key switch, and the other wire to the distributor points.
The wire between the coil and the key should be pink.
This is the circuit that should energise the coil when the ignition key is turned on.

 

[orsome]

coil connections

According to the wiring diagram in my Haynes manual, the one wire from the coil should be connected to the ignition key switch, and the other wire to the distributor points.
The wire between the coil and the key should be pink.
This is the circuit that should energise the coil when the ignition key is turned on.

**Thanks MaccA, yes it does go via key lock(actually on same cable bundle as oil press cable.
With other wire(from RUB?) to be connected to the points you mean distributor frame-to one small screw?

Actually i must now also check the simple rotation test of the distributor(because i havent done that yeat and having new parts inside like i described earlier on)-that would be a dramatic solution(stupid me)

Having four different wiring diagrams(of which anyone suit for mine 77's) i am a littlebit confused-those are all quite bit different. I have a frech diagram for 71..75 and 79 then this german book wiring diagram for maybe fresh cars? and not the one i should have. I know i have at home somewhre the original owners maunal, but not suucceeded to find it again.

I'll enclose here some photos, so you'll see what i do have.

 

[orsome]

ignition points

.
With other wire(from RUB?) to be connected to the points you mean distributor frame-to one small screw?
- now i catched the idea when looking more carefully what you could mean "to points" precisely: OK first to put in the isolation washer+then one nut+minus wire from coil+washer+wire from condensator.Then i remembered that i had made the same error when i was 20 with my Corolla, i did put the coil wire to the frame nut and not directly to the pioints.

After this i carefully checked all cables and cable ends(distributor cover to candles and coil to distributor cover), all of thjose seemed to wear a good layer of contamination.I scrubbeb them metal clear, adjusted some connections plus greased even with copper grease to guarantee best ever electrical connection.Then i changed the coil(purchased from local dealer with 14E, new candles(NGK) and new points+new condensator.WAU, i did get sparks on every candle.

This was very promising but not even with this help i could not get the motor started?

A question: shall i read the ignition order from front(from cooler) or can the manuals mean from fly wheel end with "front"?

Hopefully i did not assy the cam 180 degrees opposite position?

Something strange also happen with my turning signals, those operated correctly before and i had green signal ligth on dashboars, as well for beam ligths and for oil pressure-now all those are gone??

 

[barnfind]

.

Hopefully i did not assy the cam 180 degrees opposite position?

I have had a look in the Workshop manual. You should have some marks on the timing chain sprockets that need lining up before you put the chain back on. It shows Vee shaped reference marks in the illustration, but I can't see anything on your photograph.

 

[iMacThere4iAm]

Well done on getting a spark
I have sent you a scan of the circuit diagram from the Haynes manual, in the hope that it will help with your other electrical problems.

 

[angel]

Firing order is counted starting from the flywheel end of the engine (front when placed on the car).

Electical faults are very difficult to solve from a distance or from the keyboard...anyway I would first check all fuses and the contacts in the fusebox, first with the "wiggle it and hope" method, then by removing each and cleaning its fusebox terminals). It's very common on cars which have been standing for a while.
Check also that with the ignition switch ON you have 12V on the BAT terminal of the coil, if not, start suspecting the ignition switch itself.

It seems that camshaft timing is correct, as the camshaft sprocket mark should be hidden by the timing chain on the photo. Double check it-with both timing marks facing outwards, they should be in the same line with the crankshaft and camshaft centers.

 

[GhettoPrincess88]

I have a problem with my Renault 4 !976 TL . When driving at night when I go to turn and put my clutch in the red light comes n and the engine cuts out completely then won't start straight away the lights also go out. Could this be a problem with the dynamo at night, in day time I do not get this problem. Any advice greatly received, Thanks in advance