reidalpine
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,707
You must surely think I've lost it -if ever I had it to start with that is. My Roffen-project seems to be The Original Never Ending Stooooooory...
-I discover bits&pieces that do not correspond All the time.
I'm Not trying to scare anyone off from such a project,but think it's a Good idea to start Checking out as many of the parts that's needed for the project First-Then doublecheck again.
I've found Radiator needs new lower-brackets and upper
struts.Battery-tray(shelf)needs to be changed and re-placed.both Rad-hoses needs replacing.Speedo-wire is JUST long enough,but need rerouting.Acc-cable needs re-routing.2 Engine-mounts are identical TO rubber-part Chassis-mounts (under the rubbers)are Totally different.Crossmember/gear-lever support from R4GTL must be mounted.If you put on the thinking-cap it is possible to fit it and still have the scissor-jack in place.
Clutch-wire needs replacing,and to maintain in-dash gearstick Top-lid plus reverse-selector (sits On top-lid)needs to be changed Easy but essential!
I've mounted a VDO oil-temp sensor (150C.) at the inspection-plate rear-top end -For water-temp.gauge
Bracket for gearbox/front-traverse I've used the one from Roffen the F4 as the R5-one is too 'fat' and wrong angle
R4-one might need one or two spacers/shims to be 100%
-I have reinforced the rubber-part as R5-motor/box is heavier than orig.
One thing not fixed yet is that the doner R5 have 2 studs on the exhaust-manifold so I can't use the exhaust-clamp from Roffen.
I have not been able to locate correct exhaust-
pipe (going from manifold into front-fender) as aftermarked ones are all too big to fit???? may have to fit make-shift solution at first..
Any advise guys???
Before installing the new motor/box it is wise to check ALL auxilliary-bits Starter/Carb/Alternator/Pump/Clutch etc as it is SO much easier to work on them than afterwards-
-I found that spotwelding the rear bolthead to the back of starter-motor mountingplate would be smart as next time you need to get starter out it is Much easier ,as spot welding it on will ofcourse stop that &%*^¤%% bolt from turning-now it's just a matter of unscrewing the nut sitting nicely on the bellhousing..
Ok guys-if All of you cross All fingers and toes Roffen is due for surgery and transplant 8th.next month and all going well he will be zooming around soon!
If you should spot a funny-looking geezer smiling ALL around his head in a beige Rocket it'll be me.
-If you should think I must be a clever guy after all my babbling-on, I rush to tell you I have had invaluable help and assistance from lots of nice and knowledgable R4-afficionados on here.None mentioned-None forgotten They will all appear with Royal Regalia and Pharaphenalia at a Palace near you!! hug:
-to be continued........................ -R&R.
-I discover bits&pieces that do not correspond All the time.
I'm Not trying to scare anyone off from such a project,but think it's a Good idea to start Checking out as many of the parts that's needed for the project First-Then doublecheck again.
I've found Radiator needs new lower-brackets and upper
struts.Battery-tray(shelf)needs to be changed and re-placed.both Rad-hoses needs replacing.Speedo-wire is JUST long enough,but need rerouting.Acc-cable needs re-routing.2 Engine-mounts are identical TO rubber-part Chassis-mounts (under the rubbers)are Totally different.Crossmember/gear-lever support from R4GTL must be mounted.If you put on the thinking-cap it is possible to fit it and still have the scissor-jack in place.
Clutch-wire needs replacing,and to maintain in-dash gearstick Top-lid plus reverse-selector (sits On top-lid)needs to be changed Easy but essential!
I've mounted a VDO oil-temp sensor (150C.) at the inspection-plate rear-top end -For water-temp.gauge
Bracket for gearbox/front-traverse I've used the one from Roffen the F4 as the R5-one is too 'fat' and wrong angle
R4-one might need one or two spacers/shims to be 100%
-I have reinforced the rubber-part as R5-motor/box is heavier than orig.
One thing not fixed yet is that the doner R5 have 2 studs on the exhaust-manifold so I can't use the exhaust-clamp from Roffen.
I have not been able to locate correct exhaust-
pipe (going from manifold into front-fender) as aftermarked ones are all too big to fit???? may have to fit make-shift solution at first..
Any advise guys???
Before installing the new motor/box it is wise to check ALL auxilliary-bits Starter/Carb/Alternator/Pump/Clutch etc as it is SO much easier to work on them than afterwards-
-I found that spotwelding the rear bolthead to the back of starter-motor mountingplate would be smart as next time you need to get starter out it is Much easier ,as spot welding it on will ofcourse stop that &%*^¤%% bolt from turning-now it's just a matter of unscrewing the nut sitting nicely on the bellhousing..
Ok guys-if All of you cross All fingers and toes Roffen is due for surgery and transplant 8th.next month and all going well he will be zooming around soon!
If you should spot a funny-looking geezer smiling ALL around his head in a beige Rocket it'll be me.
-If you should think I must be a clever guy after all my babbling-on, I rush to tell you I have had invaluable help and assistance from lots of nice and knowledgable R4-afficionados on here.None mentioned-None forgotten They will all appear with Royal Regalia and Pharaphenalia at a Palace near you!! hug:
-to be continued........................ -R&R.
with lhd specifics co-written by Angel) 
