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Clementine the Cat
 
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Rear brake flexible - oops!

The brake line is connected and the brakes are bled and now I just have to do the other side. It was admittedly a bit of a struggle but couldn't have done it without your help so thank you!

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Hiya, Ok, it seem that you have won, great.

Please check before returning the car to the road.

1. leak check: with all brakes bled and adjusted. Push the brake pedal very hard and hold the pressure on, any sinking in the brake pedal means a leak.
2. leak test visual: get an assistant to press and hold pressure on the brake pedal, carefully inspect all your new pipe joints.

I may be imitating an old woman (non pc comment) but please be safe.
You as a plumber would do similar checks I guess.

Cheers Dave
 
Tried quite a few times but those marks persisted, so my "silly idea" wasn't so silly after all.

I filed both sides of the block very lightly and now its looking a lot better. Just marks from the thread inside the block

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Way better Dave, well done, as a former army instructor (for 30 years) I'd always said "there are no silly idea's or questions, only silly answers" :D
Like I said the edges should be smooth as possible looking by the looks at my set.
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Thanks Dave/ Pascal, yes it does seem that I have won but only half the battle because the other side has still got to be done.
And there's a reason that women live longer than men so I take your warning to heart.
I've already bled the brakes on that side just to check that my connections are all good and they were but I will bleed all the brakes front and back again just to make sure.

Thanks Joop, thats a really nice looking flaring tool that you have. I notice that it doesn't have any grip inside, completely smooth. Angel warned about buying a cheap tool and I think I probably did although I couldn't tell the difference. Now I know better. I really hope I never have to do this job again.

Today I started the second side and I'me already getting neck spasms. This side is worse because there is the brake limiter valve in the way and all the nuts are seized with rust and my brake line spanner has stripped so trying to get a vice grips in there.

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I’ve found it easier working on brake pipes etc. to soak a few hours(or overnite) with WD40 or similar before tackling old pipes etc., spray, sit, glass of wine, snack, watch the world for an hour, makes the neck ache less painful hopefully;)
 
Hi mojobaby, glad to hear that you are leak free !!!

The pipe on the brake limiter valve look a right little swine to get at.

My only suggestion involves more work.

1. un-clip the flexible pipe to give more room.
2. Un-bolt the valve ditto more room.

I am not sure if there is room for a pigs tail !
I.e. make the pipe longer than standard or required by forming a complete 360° loop.
Make sure that there is room for the loop without contacting the suspension via movement.

This is a job that I have to do in the near future, so I am interested to se how you get on.

Cheers Dave
Pascal is my cars name, christened by the previous owner
 
Thanks Laxeian, the WD 40 certainly did work, especially around those clips that hold the brake hoses in place. I sprayed and left it overnight, but it still took half and hour to get them out. I'm now using my tyre as a head rest.

Joop, your photo explains a lot, we're a lot less complicated but the real reason is in the photo below and lats face it, we've all done this.

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and this

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and hi Pascal\Dave, I'm Dave too. The clips holding the brake hoses in place were a nightmare to get off.

I had to get them off because the brake line nuts and hose connection were badly rusted together. WD 40 helped a lot with the clips. I also had to undo the brake line connected to the brake limiter valve. I also disconnected the brake line at the wheel.

Once everything was loose I pulled the complete hose and brake line through the bracket holes. Now I can easily undo the connections with a vice grip

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Let me just say, that this is one job that I never ever want to do again. Never ever!!

It was pretty difficult getting everything out as the hose connection to the pipe connecter was very rusty, but I managed to loosen the connecter at the brake limiter valve side and then pulled everything through the brackets. (see above photo). I used vice grips to loosen the hose and replaced it with the new hose.

Connecting it again was another story. I started by trying to connect the pipe connecter to the limiter valve and couldn't get it in deep enough for the threads to engage. Believe it or not I tried for about 4 hours and then 2 hours the next day.
In desperation I got a loose spare pipe connecter and it screwed in straight away. So I tried again and this time it went in with no problem. Perhaps the thread was blocked or damaged and the spare connecter cleared the way.

Putting the bracket clip that holds the hose in place took 3 hours yesterday. Eventually I realised that the bottom of the 2 legs was a little thick so I tapered them down to a knife edge on the grinder and then tapped it in with a hammer.

Today went better and I could finally bleed the brakes and call it "job done".

My back and neck are wrecked, my hands are black and blue and bleeding and to make matters worse the temperatures have been below 10. My Johnny Walker Blue has never tasted better!!

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Well done Mojobaby. Top marks for persistence. That pipe will last for years. You are now an official 'pipe strangler'.

When I got into this game my foreman would not accept anything less than 100%. I have literally spent days making one pipe to his satisfaction (he was ex-race team mechanic).
We both worked for Girling brakes back in the day.
Cheers.
 
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