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Yellow R4
 
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Tuning the R4

New condensor, points, dizzy cap, plugs. I'll change the filter tomorrow too then. Running 100 octane 4,7 % ethanol petrol.
Actually I don't think the condensor has any effect cause I'm using a boyer bransden power box (not full electronic ignition). This still works fine on it's 5th year.

Maybe I'll have to put aaall the old stuff back on and then see if it fire normally (but runs roughly as before). It seems something is mucking the timing up... Could be the dizzy spindle :confused:
Can it be the coil? Missing sporadically? It's 6 years/35000 km old.

Regarding the vacuum tube: I'll never forget that again after I ran 50 km without it some years ago :D
 
Another option is a big vacuum leak. The big hose going to the manifold is always sensitive to leaks - the one with the 1.5mm restrictor inside. It's unlikely to be jets as idle and running jets are different. I had a lot of figuring out on my R5 with bad idle and bad running apart from on full trottle, and that was a leak from a hose to the top of the carb.
 
It has never had the restrictor and always run fine without. I've cut a bit of cracked pipe of it so now it should be even tighter. But never had a problem with that :)
But it might be a air-leak somewhere else, after re-attaching the carb.
 
No restrictor in that pipe? Are you mad? Might be worth blanking it off completely to see if that makes a difference. I normally run that one with a wood screw inside it to block it off as it's a pain and the emissions benefits won't save the world.
 
Never have had anything in that pipe, and the car has run 36000 km perfectly.
The smaller one going to the car is blanked off though.
 
It has a narrowing part but no near 1,5mm. More like 5mm.
 
We might be talking about different hoses. It's the emissions hose that goes to the base of the carb I'm thinking of which I guess is the smaller one.
 
Malcolm!
You are referring to one that goes from T joint to manifold? There should be restriction 1,something but it is very sensitive to cracks or looseness.

On bigger one that goes from T joint to valve cover i have never had any restrictions.

Niels...try to check all those rubber pipes as they get hard thru time and start to crack or do not hold tight to joints.
 
Source: https://www.la4ldesylvie.fr/circuit-de-recyclage-d-huile-et-ajutage
The different oil vapor recycling systems
Ventilation:

A hose connected to the rocker cover sends the oil vapors to the ground. This system was only present on the first Renault 4 models and was quickly modified following new anti-pollution standards.
There is no nozzle on this assembly.

Simple circuit from 1965:

The oil vapor recovery hose connects the rocker cover to the carburetor body. The oil vapors are thus sucked in by the carburetor and burnt when the mixture explodes.
There is no nozzle on this assembly.

Double circuit on Billancourt engine:

The oil vapor recovery hose is divided into 2 thanks to a plastic tee, one of the outlets being connected to the carburetor, the second being connected to the intake manifold.
A nozzle with a diameter of 1.3 mm is mounted either in the connection hose to the manifold, or drilled directly on the intake manifold.

Double circuit on Cléon engine:

The oil vapor recovery hose is divided into 2 thanks to a plastic tee, one of the outlets being connected to the carburetor, the second being connected to the intake manifold.
A 1.3 mm diameter nozzle is fitted in the hose connecting the carburetor and the intake manifold
On 688-11 engines only: A 5 mm diameter nozzle is fitted in the hose connecting the carburetor and the rocker cover


Attention: In all cases the nozzle is very important in the oil recycling circuit because if a nozzle is not fitted at the place where it is provided, this leads to a depletion of the mixture and therefore irregularities in operation of the motor. In case of adjustment problems, it is therefore imperative to check the condition of the hoses and the presence of the nozzles.
 
Tx Jdew..... This is very informative.
I know that for 688-12 engine there is no restriction in bigger pipe.

Will copy this text of yours in my data base. :D
 
Okay, if it should be in the small hose, it doesn't matter as it is blocked. As in "Oh the hole in the manifold has been welded shut." ;)
 
All is well now. There was something iffy with some of the new ignition parts, so I swapped it for the old ones again. New plugs are in though. AND ignition cable no 4 was apparently cut inside the insulation in the middle part of the cable - thus 3 cyl running on/off depending on the angle of the cable, and generally bad running in speed.
I'll make another post with some images and video with the sports exhaust.
 
Hope you solve the problem.
Check compression, mixture and timing. I do all that just listening to engine sound and rpm. Were it best its offen correkt timing and mixture. The fuelpump have overcapacity så check filter into pump somtimes rust debries there. I put paper filter before pump.
I want report on the performance parts.
Did they add hp what happened to milage. Have the same 845cc engine in my cars cos I live in Sweden
Best regards
 
Homegrown said:
Hope you solve the problem.
Check compression, mixture and timing. I do all that just listening to engine sound and rpm. Were it best its offen correkt timing and mixture. The fuelpump have overcapacity så check filter into pump somtimes rust debries there. I put paper filter before pump.
I want report on the performance parts.
Did they add hp what happened to milage. Have the same 845cc engine in my cars cos I live in Sweden
Best regards
Click to expand...
It's solved a while ago, the car is running great (just went for 1400 km around Denmark), and the setup is just the sports exhaust without the manifold, that needs adaption. All the rest is (and has been) spotless for a long time.

It goes 15-18 km/l on octane 100, depending on load wind direction, and if I'm driving with the luggage rack. Top speed is 110 km/h, and it pulls a bit stronger with the larger pipe.
 
Btw: welcome on the page
 
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