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Clementine the Cat
 
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Yellow R4
 
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White 1990 Gtl repair - MOT completed successfully!

Yeah, sorry, i lack the terminology. It is indeed that one, on the top the steering rod, and the one on the ball joint under, that goes into the wheel (excuse my noobiness :D).
Anyway, i have managed to replace all of them.

So, now for the newly discovered issues.
No long lights, and turn signals on the front, bulbs seem ok, fuses replaced.
Upon driving straight, it turns right, and it did not do that before i changed the shock absorbers and tires. Perhaps i messed up something?
And, the front brakes seem to brake by themselves after braking.
That seems about it for now :)
 
No problem Teodor, sometimes I have to look up in my Heynes book to see what some parts are called.

Just take a photo next time, its easier:)

for your lights, I usually get some fine sandpaper and clean all contact points for the bulbs and also the earth connections. that usually solves the problem
 
Good morning campers.

Sunday update, out of all days.
After weeks of work, and a month of lazyness, White is back home. The remaining issues are as follows:
Still not able to make the lights and turn signals work properly. Sanded and cleaned all of the contact points and earth connections, checked all of the cables i could see for issues, none detected. The not visible parts have to be checked.
Fun fact: when the lights are in position on, the front left blinker does not work, the other 3 do, if i press for long lights, back right does not work, other 3 do, and finally, sometimes when the lights are in position mode, all of the 4 blinkers work. Also, long lights still not working, day lights do but right one shines brighter.

The wheels still need to be aligned, and that for now, is the last step.

I have begun with the rust on the floor: 20170820_164613.jpg then I'll move to the body on the inside and outside, for the inaccessible parts I'll wait for when i go to align the wheels.


20170820_164626.jpg 20170820_164753.jpg 20170820_164924.jpg


That should be it. The final touches like the paint job and possibly but not probably interior refreshing will be considered, but for the time being, I'll stick with driving it for a while and seeing how it goes.

Ps: i've been looking for locks, i wanted to replace both since the key i have only works for the ignition. After some research i concluded it's best if i use what i had already.

To make a lock without a key functional, you take it apart until you have only this: 20170820_170210.jpg

the key obviously does not unlock this lock, so you grind these pins out while the key is in, on both sides, and you should have something like this: 20170820_170233.jpg

it works flawlessly and does not unlock with other keys.


Have a nice day.
 
Last edited:
Greetings everyone.
So, after doing everything i could by myself, i went to the mechanic to check the brakes and some other small stuff i couldn't wrap my head around.
Blinkers and long lights as well as position now work (i feel kinda stupid since all it needed was a new handle-switch) although i will have to clean the connections again and possibly change the connectors. Breaks fixed, I've been told the will brake much better after a couple hundred kilometers. It does not steer on the right now, that much, just a bit when i brake. The engine still has hiccups (mechanic adjusted ignition and tweeked a bit) but I've also been told to drive it a few days to "unclog" it since it has been idling for so long, and then adjustments will be made again to smooth it.
While driving today, i noticed a loud sound (which becomes louder if the speed is increased, and even louder if going into a left corner) coming from the right side, front I'd say, and got informed it's probably a ball bearing.
The rust still remains as an issue to fix, but the car is now road legal, hurray :D
#ownedMoT
 
Small update.
Removed seats and started working on the rusty floor. Discovered more holes.
I have decided to go for the "easier" option and painted with an on rust paint that supposedly seals it and prevents it from spreading further or at least slows it down, after cleaning everything.


20170928_162841.jpg

I have been told to fill the holes with high grade silicone after that, and as a final touch, to re-paint everything with bitumen. I have meticulously filled every small little tiny crack with that rust paint, and then with silicone. Tomorrow i'm doing the final siliconisations(new word? :)) and then bitumen the hell out of it. When i have the chance, (soon, i hope) i'll do the same on the undercarriage.

When i make my own small garage with lifting capabilities, i will definitely cut out the old floor and weld a new one, and the same goes for every rusty part. Or perhaps i will then disassemble the 4 and do a complete restoration. ...
 
So, it seems i am done, with the floor. 20171002_141949.jpg

Decided to paint all the way up, i'll use this occasion to renew the bottom plastics since they're off. Wondering if i should just paint them or actually cover them with fake leather...

20171002_142159.jpg

20171002_142142.jpg

Also, the first thing i decided to do, before even getting a 4, was to procure a safe which i'd hide somewhere. I think it's pretty much safe to say that the 4 is not fort knox, pretty easy to break in.
And old post box was the perfect candidate, changed the lock, painted, and bolted it to the floor. The seat is always all the way back and it can not be seen.

20171002_142044.jpg
This isn't exactly what i planned, but for now it will do.
The original plan was to cut out the old rusty floor and while putting a new one, incorporate the safe which would indeed be the whole floor. Maybe a bit too high for legs, but there's noone to drive around with me so that would be fine.

20171002_141918.jpg

Somehow i went further than expected, so i didn't stop, and i like the result actually.

20170930_123835.jpg 20170930_123803.jpg

Gotta get rid of this too.

20171002_152146.jpg 20171002_152038.jpg
 
It seems that the taking off sound(airplane :D) was not coming from the front right, but back right bearing. Changed the front right anyway since i had already disassembled it. The original ones look in great shape, will be as spares. Since i took off the wheel, brakes and everything off 4 times in an hour, i mastered the disassembly, at least one good thing from this.
Peace.
 
Lol, yeah, have no time and place for a complete one yet, and it already hurts, petak :D
I am already working on that, waiting for sunny weather so i can continue..
 
I have had the same problem, no time and no place at home, and now 10 months busy doing my full restoration in a farmer's shed nearby home :D
And I must say it's very rewarding doing (almost) everything by yourself and in the PROJECTS section of this forum you can see all those magnificent restorations done by those who are infected by that same rare virus... Keeping the R4 alive and running ;)
 
Indeed. Good guy farmer for letting you :D
Always loved this car.
I remember driving with my grandpa to the farm. He said that it's a tank, and has always to be ready for action :D

When i finish mine, i'll start with his, red 1984(i believe) Red gtl.
Can hardly wait :))

Any tips on moving it and making it run for the first time in 10 years? Precautions and what not to do? :)
 
Niels Svane said:
I always get a shock when touching the ignition leads with the motor running :( Maybe I'm unlucky ;) But then again; it always happens by accident, when I'm doing something not related to the electrics. Seems to be a nice car you have bought - Have fun with the tinkering :)
Click to expand...
Wear a pair of 'Marigolds' rubber gloves, it stops you getting a shock from uninsulated leads
 
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