- Thread starter Azazello
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Azazello
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Swapping the windscreen wiper mechanism for an earlier one with nicer chrome blades; I was wondering if mounting to the engine again is sufficient to change the position of the pantograph to have the wipers resting on the left side instead that on the right one as per the latter type.
angel
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The single speed wiper mechanism like this in your photo should have the arms parked at the left side of the windscreen (in front of the driver).
If not, it should be possible to change it by turning the crank 180 deg. on the motor spindle (it comes off after undoing the 10mm nut and levering it a bit).
The odometer can be reset by dismantling it but requires some patience and fiddling with small parts. If you are confident enough, go for it!
If not, it should be possible to change it by turning the crank 180 deg. on the motor spindle (it comes off after undoing the 10mm nut and levering it a bit).
The odometer can be reset by dismantling it but requires some patience and fiddling with small parts. If you are confident enough, go for it!
Azazello
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Today I refitted my distributor... moved the car until the flywheel showed the sign at the right place, opened the head cover and looked for both cylinder 1 valves to be closed. I tried to put my dist with the rotating head toward the 1st plug contact but it didn't fit, cause the lip is asimmetric and can go only one way...
So the way it went down was facing the 4th plug contact... it seems there is nl way of putting it different, but It seems I made something wrong...
So the way it went down was facing the 4th plug contact... it seems there is nl way of putting it different, but It seems I made something wrong...
Azazello
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Isn't it the same? Being the lip asimmetric. .. I turned just one revolution, so the dist made half a revolution and the rotor is pointing to the 4th cylinder...
Isn't it equally right?
Thanks for your patience letting a hard head like mine understand this little secrets of electricity. ..
mojobaby
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Sorry, I'm understanding your problem a bit better now.
You are correct in saying that the tip of the dizzy is not centred and will only go in one way
What I am saying is that if the flywheel mark is in the correct place, then No 1 piston should be at the top of its stroke. You can check this if you remove the spark plug. Maybe you can see it with a light, but I put in a small screwdriver to feel.
If the flywheel mark is correct, it might also be that No 4 cylinder is at the top. Thats why I said to rotate the flywheel one more revolution until No 1 is at the top
At this time, the rotor should point at No 1 lead on your dizzy cap. If it points at No 4, then your distributor is 180 degrees out.
You can see on the photo how the distributor fits to the gear. As you say, there is only one way for it to fit.
Perhaps the gear moved when you took out the distributor.
I removed the gear as well, it just pulls out with a strong magnet, and then positioned it the way I wanted so that the rotor faced the right way. When you put the gear back it turns because of the angle of the teeth. It turns about 20-30 degrees anti-clockwise.
You are correct in saying that the tip of the dizzy is not centred and will only go in one way
What I am saying is that if the flywheel mark is in the correct place, then No 1 piston should be at the top of its stroke. You can check this if you remove the spark plug. Maybe you can see it with a light, but I put in a small screwdriver to feel.
If the flywheel mark is correct, it might also be that No 4 cylinder is at the top. Thats why I said to rotate the flywheel one more revolution until No 1 is at the top
At this time, the rotor should point at No 1 lead on your dizzy cap. If it points at No 4, then your distributor is 180 degrees out.
You can see on the photo how the distributor fits to the gear. As you say, there is only one way for it to fit.
Perhaps the gear moved when you took out the distributor.
I removed the gear as well, it just pulls out with a strong magnet, and then positioned it the way I wanted so that the rotor faced the right way. When you put the gear back it turns because of the angle of the teeth. It turns about 20-30 degrees anti-clockwise.
Azazello
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I do not remember having played with that gear...
So you are suggesting to investigate better which cylinder is at top to know if it is right having the rotor pointing to 4th plug or not, am I right? Never thought that gear could have changed his position...
mojobaby
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Thats correct. When setting timing or distributor position, No 1 piston must be at the top when the flywheel mark is lined up.
Then make sure that the rotor is pointing approximately at No 1 on the dizzy cap. The fine setting of the timing can be done later.
If you have never disturbed that gear, then perhaps just check on flywheel position and No 1 piston position. The gear can only change position if its lifted upwards.
Then make sure that the rotor is pointing approximately at No 1 on the dizzy cap. The fine setting of the timing can be done later.
If you have never disturbed that gear, then perhaps just check on flywheel position and No 1 piston position. The gear can only change position if its lifted upwards.
Azazello
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I am figuring out where all the cables go... the electric system is quite simple inside the bonnet (a little more confusing behind the dashboard) but I have some doubts remaining.
No wires hanging under the regulator on the firewall, but a grey and green wires are joined together right in that point; are they just bypassing the regulator cause of the alternator fitted instead of the dynamo?
Along the left side of the bonnet there are two wires, a thin grey and a thick black, ending with a fast-on approximately at the steering box gaiter. They are prolonged (mofication of the previous owner) whit half a meter of yellow/green cable). The grey should be for clacson, but not reaches the clacson in the original lenght, so I wonder where the clacson was originally fitted. No ideas about the thick black.
And no wires connecting to the master cylinder sensor... (maybe the black one? But the extra lenght makes no sense an I thought a small wire was sudficient for that kind of signal).
I made a photo, if it is of any help.
When I dismantled all the ancillaries I put paper masking tape on wires writing where they should be connected again... but the ink magically disappeared!
No wires hanging under the regulator on the firewall, but a grey and green wires are joined together right in that point; are they just bypassing the regulator cause of the alternator fitted instead of the dynamo?
Along the left side of the bonnet there are two wires, a thin grey and a thick black, ending with a fast-on approximately at the steering box gaiter. They are prolonged (mofication of the previous owner) whit half a meter of yellow/green cable). The grey should be for clacson, but not reaches the clacson in the original lenght, so I wonder where the clacson was originally fitted. No ideas about the thick black.
And no wires connecting to the master cylinder sensor... (maybe the black one? But the extra lenght makes no sense an I thought a small wire was sudficient for that kind of signal).
I made a photo, if it is of any help.
When I dismantled all the ancillaries I put paper masking tape on wires writing where they should be connected again... but the ink magically disappeared!
mojobaby
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Does the thick black one not go to the solenoid? I don't know why its so long.
On my car, there is a red wire that comes out from the wires that are taped together( clipped to your inner wing) and is connected to the master cylinder. The wire to the claxon(hooter, horn) also comes from here.
By the way, the writing on my masking tape also disappeared
On my car, there is a red wire that comes out from the wires that are taped together( clipped to your inner wing) and is connected to the master cylinder. The wire to the claxon(hooter, horn) also comes from here.
By the way, the writing on my masking tape also disappeared
Otto96
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Nice idea. Love this project.Today I am a bit on the artistic side...
Azazello
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Any hint for the cables? On the master cylinder sensor there are 2 faston, maybe they are the 2 in photo? Don't know why te were prolonged, but there's nothing else they could be linked to...
All the lights work but for side indicators, I can't make them work... it's a full day since I am playing with flasher relay and trying to understand which cables were involved and if they were well linked... no result.
And no lights on on the dashboard when I turn on the key.
Maybe the problem is the ignition button installed by the previous owner?
I think I have fixed the key switch, so I have to undo all those bridged cables...
All the lights work but for side indicators, I can't make them work... it's a full day since I am playing with flasher relay and trying to understand which cables were involved and if they were well linked... no result.
And no lights on on the dashboard when I turn on the key.
Maybe the problem is the ignition button installed by the previous owner?
I think I have fixed the key switch, so I have to undo all those bridged cables...
Azazello
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Electrical faults solved, it was a mix of wrong connection to the led light (they have to be precisely connected to - and + cables), faulty direction relay and not enough ground connection until the dashboard was bolted to the body.
Now fitted front grill and dashboard.
Now fitted front grill and dashboard.
Azazello
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The only connection I miss is how the signal arrives to the 2 rear brake lights... I still have the strange prolonged cables in the bonnet, the one from the short grey wire was taken away and the grey wire is now connected to the brake master cylinder, since it was hanging above there. But there are 2 contacts...
But I had a strange button under the dashboard shelf which seems to be actionated by the brake pedal.
The two cables seems to be masses,since with tester they result to be linked to the car body.
But I had a strange button under the dashboard shelf which seems to be actionated by the brake pedal.
The two cables seems to be masses,since with tester they result to be linked to the car body.
If they are connected to a bulb , tester will also show connection to the body ( it will beep when set to beep function )
I had similar switch ( not connected) in my car and it wasn't stop lights because the original stop light switch was pretty close to it and connected.
I had similar switch ( not connected) in my car and it wasn't stop lights because the original stop light switch was pretty close to it and connected.
JonathanT
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Looking Fantastic!