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help !

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there sure is..it's nuts! luckily I found this before buying one so every single number matches!
do you know what an A or a B stands for at the end of the numbers on the carb?
I'm in France btw
 
As Paul already pointed, it's normal for the dizzy to have two different springs. Don't mess with it, just make sure the bobweights are clean and free to move and -most important- the shaft has no lateral play in the body.
Your carburettor is not correct for your engine, these having the vacuum advance pipe were either to be fitted on 956/1008cc engines, or very late ('84-'86) 845s.
I assume you have at least plugged this pipe. Check carefully that there are no vacuum leaks at the carburettor base or at the inlet/ exhaust manifold.
 
Hi Angel, no my carb has no vacuum adv...i was given one (well 5 euros) which has same numbers bit a B after, which I assume is ref to that, but then I bought a nos one exactly the same. The new dizzy has arrived but you are both right 2 diff springs inside but mine has play in the shaft so I will try it then forwards to the tappets as Paul suggested & check for any leaks with the WD40. I like knowing how all the bits work, part of getting to know the car....even if I haven't sorted the lunge in idle yet!
 
I think both angel and myself have had the most experience over the longest time on Renault fours and we both have respect for each other and most of the time agree but unlike Facebook where you can tag another member I was grateful when he also agreed with me on the spring sadly I now have to do a lot of more modern Renaults and some of my knowledge on Renault 4 was is from a long time ago but given a choice I know what I'd rather be working on hopefully you'll get this sorted soon
 
Well I really appreciate all your expertise & help, thanks very much. Maybe they will get more popular with the MOT change..I sure know what I'd rather be driving!
 
mr-reno-139 said:
I think both angel and myself have had the most experience over the longest time on Renault fours and we both have respect for each other and most of the time agree but unlike Facebook where you can tag another member I was grateful when he also agreed with me on the spring sadly I now have to do a lot of more modern Renaults and some of my knowledge on Renault 4 was is from a long time ago but given a choice I know what I'd rather be working on hopefully you'll get this sorted soon
Click to expand...
I fitted the less wobbly shafted dizzy & things are sounding a tad better although the problem still there..had a quick look at the valve clearances..non are right they are all about .25 or more now I haven't done these for years..so trawled through here..Haynes has the usual slightly confusing explanation...my Q..how do you know the valve is completely depressed before you check the clearance..is it just a visible that looks as low as it will go thing? cheers for help.
 
There is an easier, in my opinion, technique of adjusting rocker clearances: bring one cylinder to TDC with valves "rocking" and adjust both valves of the other cylinder that is on TDC.
 
Angel, so you're saying that if No 1 piston is at TDC (which you can check by the timing mark on the flywheel) then the inlet and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 as well as cylinder 4 can all be done at the same time?
 
mojobaby said:
Angel, so you're saying that if No 1 piston is at TDC (which you can check by the timing mark on the flywheel) then the inlet and exhaust valves on cylinder 1 as well as cylinder 4 can all be done at the same time?
Click to expand...

Not quite youve misunderstood
Jack car up front one side only up put in 4 th gear turn front wheel and rotate engine till any pair of valves on one cylinder are rocking then adjust both valves on mirror image cylinder ie 1 adjust cylinder 4 2 adjust cylinder 3 etc
This is way ive done all pushrod engines for 40 years
This saves time as only 4 operations needed
 
Thanks for the explanation, it's a lot faster and less complicated than the Heynes manual. That's 8 operations!
 
I did the 1st method & then did haynes to check..2nd time loosened the plugs..so much easier! But Paul your method sounds like the best, no more noisy tappets but I still have erratic idle lunge, I've run out of things to change now so I might (very reluctantly) take her to a garage! Oh just the fuel filter, which I will do tomorrow. I'm wondering if the problem might be she wasn't driven much over the winter.
 
nope I haven't, but I bought new plugs & I've had to clean them twice, I think I'm just crap at carb tuning!
 
I thought I'd found the source of the problem when I found the needle had snapped off inside the carb in my old carb
 
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I ve said this earlier and will repeat with airfilter off looking into carburettor intake willing to bet you will see fuel literally flowing into manifold will match the lumpy idle moments
In theory adjusting carb will be fully in too weak engine stops
fully out too rich engine chugs and stops too
If at no point between in and out it improves to a sensible idle forget carb adjustment and try new one
 
mr-reno-139 said:
I ve said this earlier and will repeat with airfilter off looking into carburettor intake willing to bet you will see fuel literally flowing into manifold will match the lumpy idle moments
In theory adjusting carb will be fully in too weak engine stops
fully out too rich engine chugs and stops too
If at no point between in and out it improves to a sensible idle forget carb adjustment and try new one
Click to expand...
will do that tomorrow cheers
 
mr-reno-139 said:
I ve said this earlier and will repeat with airfilter off looking into carburettor intake willing to bet you will see fuel literally flowing into manifold will match the lumpy idle moments
In theory adjusting carb will be fully in too weak engine stops
fully out too rich engine chugs and stops too
If at no point between in and out it improves to a sensible idle forget carb adjustment and try new one
Click to expand...
I am listening..promise!
 
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