look what I found

[mojobaby]

I have no idea why the previous owner welded the exhaust to the silencer.

The weld was underneath the pipe so I couldn't see it. After 30 minutes of struggling, thinking it was just rusted together, I removed everything and discovered the weld.

Seeing that the whole exhaust and silencer were disassembled, I sanded off all the rust and resprayed, but forgot to take a photo before I replaced it. Damn!

 

[mojobaby]

I took out my radiator today to drain the anti-freeze. There isn't a drain tap and I couldn't drain through the bottom hose because I couldn't reach the hose clamp to loosen it.
What should have been a quick job turned into a long job because of two nuts underneath the radiator. They're nearly impossible to reach!!

Can anyone tell me if the metal channel under the radiator is removable? I don't know if it's fixed permanently to the radiator or just rusted in place. It's a copper radiator

 

[Bobble]

I know the nuts are a pain to get to and then if they will come undone without breaking off you did well to get them off, i think that you will find that the bottom section is braised or welded to the radiator.

 

[pepper]

It's normally brazed to the bottom of the radiator, don't try getting it off.

 

[mojobaby]

thanks Bobbie and Pepper, I tried yesterday for about 5 minutes then gave up for fear of damaging the radiator.
It took me and hour to get the 2 nuts off- the drivers side was the worst!

Its a copper radiator and I've stripped the paint off to show the copper. Hopefully if I spray it with clear lacquer it'll keep the shine.

I was wondering why my 1980 GTL has a normal metal radiator and my 1983 850cc has copper. Perhaps copper is cheaper?

Photos to follow tomorrow

 

[pepper]

Car manufacturers get their supplies from many different sources, it just depends on who they got their supplies from at that time, hence why you can have different braking systems on our cars.

 

[mojobaby]

I've stripped the old paint off the copper and given it a bit of a polish. Looking a lot better now.
I put the nozzle of my compressor in the bleed plug on the bulkhead and blew out the rest of the antifreeze from the engine. Not much there.
Then I put a hosepipe in the hole where the lower radiator hose fits and washed it out.

 

[mojobaby]

I tried to start the engine today for the first time in 15 years, but it seems to have seized up. I think that perhaps the rings have rusted to the cylinders. They will not budge! I don't want to force anything to turn in case I cause further damage
Has anyone got any tips on freeing up the pistons? I read somewhere that diesel injected into the sparkplug apertures works well. Or is it best to remove the cylinder head and clean the cylinders. I don't have the facilities(or knowledge) to remove the pistons.

 

[Cyprus Andy]

I had a 100E ford pop with this trouble and your right.....I drained the oil and filled the cylinders through the spark plugs ( topping up as it slowly drained away) until the engine sump and cylinders were full to the top with diesel ( use the red heating oil/ agricultural stuff its cheaper) leave it for a few days and I found it had freed it off and when I drained the sump it had also cleaned the engine out .......The diesel, being a very thin oil creeps between everything with capillary action and frees anything off....just be patient with it, its better than having to do a head job !
Remember to turn the engine over without plugs in first, and something over the top to catch any diesel still left in the bores so you don't cause hydraulic pressure if you have the plugs in and blow the head gasket........Its been a long time since I ran a petrol engine car but it's all coming back like a bad dream haha must be getting my "petrol head" back on !

 

[mojobaby]

Thanks for that, Andy! Can you clarify something for me? Is it diesel fuel or diesel oil that I should use? I was assuming that it was diesel fuel, but you mention "diesel, being a very thin oil......"

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Thanks for that, Andy! Can you clarify something for me? Is it diesel fuel or diesel oil that I should use? I was assuming that it was diesel fuel, but you mention "diesel, being a very thin oil......"

Yes it is diesel fuel which is used, and it is a thin oil. If you have diesel on your hands you will feel the oil in it when you rub your fingers together.........why you should feel the need to do so is beyond me but you can

 

[pepper]

Whatever you do, be gentle, as the piston rings don't take much to break!

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Yes it is diesel fuel which is used, and it is a thin oil. If you have diesel on your hands you will feel the oil in it when you rub your fingers together.........why you should feel the need to do so is beyond me but you can

When you try to turn it to see if it is free ...turn it by hand ( there is no resistance with the plugs out ) just turn it with the starter handle or with the belts whichever is easier..if you feel any resistance leave it a little longer

 

[mojobaby]

After freeing the pistons, (See my thread- "Tool for Cylinder Head Removal"), I tried to turn the motor over with the starter motor, and the pistons got stuck again, in the same place!

I secured a bar to the wheel studs, jacked the car up, put it in gear, and stood on the bar to force the wheel around and make the pistons move. This worked for a while and then the clutch started to slip, and the pistons stayed still. I think I'll probably have to get another clutch, or clutch kit.

that's when I decided that the engine would have to come out---something I've never done before!

So the progress so far:-
Cylinder Head is off
Water Pump
Carburetor
Manifold
Alternator
Radiator
Steering rack removed (See thread-"Steering Rack Removal")
Drive Shafts removed

I had a look at a work shop crane and decided that I couldn't afford the 200 Euro, so decided to build my own.

I borrowed the block and tackle from a neighbour. So now you can see where I work; it's outside which is great in summer but impossible in winter:eek:
So maybe the engine will be out today or tomorrow

 

[mojobaby]

I'm happy to report that all went well on Saturday and the engine is now out!!!! Having a look at the photos, I think that the gear box is probably hanging a little bit too low. The rope at the back goes around the bottom of the timing chain cover.



At the time I was a little concerned that it might slip off, and shortened the front rope, but obviously not enough. When I put the engine back, I'll make sure that it's more level.

 

[Cyprus Andy]

Rather you than me :eek:..........better get cracking before winter starts ehh Good luck with it

 

[mojobaby]

I separated the gearbox from the engine today and while I was cleaning the outer, I noticed 2 plugs with what look like electric spade connectors. I've no idea what they are used for and can't remember unplugging anything while I was taking the engine out.

In fact I don't think they had been used as they were covered in oil and dirt.

They're just below the 2 bolts that hold the clutch lever in place on the side of the gearbox

 

[André4Renaults]

Two thoughts spring to mind:
1/ it's an sensor that's simply being used as a plug that happened to have the same dimensions as the original plug.
2/ Someone fitted the car with a gearbox oil temperature gauge......

 

[Alive]

Reverse light indicator?

 

[mojobaby]

Thanks Andrew, point no 2 was what I was thinking as well, but then I wondered why that would be necessary.

I hadn't thought about a reverse light! It's possible as the farmer who owned the car before me lived in the middle of nowhere, where it's black as pitch at night. I'll check for wiring tomorrow. The light could have been attached to the back bumper, which is missing!