Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
Réparateur d'automobiles

R4 TL restauration

I have been busy working on the rear support beams. Once upon a time the axle support plates haven been repaired. Unfortunately is has been a poor repair and I'm glad I decided to cut them out. It all started to rust on the inner side.
WP_20160109_17_46_49_Pro.jpg WP_20160110_001.jpg WP_20160110_12_11_38_Pro.jpg WP_20160110_12_21_41_Pro.jpg WP_20160110_15_33_18_Pro.jpg WP_20160110_15_33_25_Pro.jpg WP_20160115_16_54_49_Pro.jpg WP_20160115_16_54_49_Pro1.JPG
 
Last edited:
Bottom chassis primed in Epifanes Marine Primer:

03-03-16%20-%209_zpstdqcgnwp.jpg

03-03-16%20-%202_zpsota2e1gp.jpg


Next time primer the upper part. Then flipping over to start with the 2k paint.
 
Interesting use of marine primer. A lot of boats are being coated in epoxy now. My boat is epoxy coated and hasn't been touched for 7 years. I wonder how it would stand up being used on a car?
 
WP_20160326_11_11_15_Pro.jpg WP_20160326_11_11_24_Pro.jpg WP_20160326_11_11_31_Pro.jpg WP_20160326_12_03_20_Pro.jpg Noooo troubles!

Today I was working on the rear axle. I did some cleaning with a steel wire brush and I decided - before going on further cleaning - to remove the silent blocks on both sides. It was a dirty job but I managed. When cleaning the inner tubbes it seems rust had made some holes, bummer!!! :mad::mad:

I think this is beyond repair? What do you advice?
 
  • WP_20160326_13_14_06_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160326_13_14_06_Pro.jpg
    142.4 KB · Views: 1
  • WP_20160326_13_14_16_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160326_13_14_16_Pro.jpg
    136.9 KB · Views: 2
  • WP_20160402_15_46_00_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160402_15_46_00_Pro.jpg
    101.3 KB · Views: 2
Last edited:
If everyone stripped their rear axles this far I expect this would be a common sight
No way of knowing how bad they are until they snap normally
Have known people get a steel tube fabricated and sleeve internally
 
cote-c-changement-silentbloc-train-arriere-4l.jpg positionnement-palier-exterieur-train-arriere-4l.jpg WP_20160410_14_56_45_Pro.jpg WP_20160410_14_56_56_Pro.jpg WP_20160410_15_30_25_Pro.jpg WP_20160410_15_30_34_Pro.jpg WP_20160410_15_30_40_Pro.jpg WP_20160410_15_31_01_Pro.jpg Yeeeey I got a new rear axle. Some time ago it was restored (sandblasted etc.) but the owner got ill and the axle was set alone in storage.. I'm happy I got it! I'm doubting if I will replace the silent blocks, they seem on pretty good condition..
What is an easy way to line up new silent blocks? I think most easy (before removing the old ones) is to measure the distance between silent blocks (axle lying flat) and the floor. We also got a 'new' compressor, as old as I'm - hehehe - and still working fine! I can now sandblast the way it should be..
 
Last edited:
Fabulous work and progress. So envious of your facilities :D
 
Wow, I just love seeing this sort of thorough restoration in pictures. Tell me, when you've finished the chassis, presumably you'll be injecting something like Waxoyl into the chassis so that it lasts for years? Are there already holes in the chassis for this? When you weld in a new plate, how do you decide whether you butt weld the edges or plug weld them? Once you've spot welded a plate in, do you then follow up with a continuous weld or do you think that is unecessary? Excellent job! :-D
 
Paul,

I can't help you with any tips on welding. Others may be able to finesse the advantages of butt vs plug welding.

On the other hand, now that the body is removed from the chassis you will find around 23 captive nuts in the chassis where the body bolts to it. I reckon that will give enough access to pour in whatever brand of alchemy you can brew!

Fish (fish oil) vs Lamb (lanolin) vs proprietary concoctions (waxoyl). I've heard of people using used ATF as it's cheap and quite "wicky"
Ultimately, you have to decide what rust preventative technique you use.
It is imperative that you do some research into what people use (and are happy with) in your country when treating the SAME vehicle. (R4)
There are other access areas that will be revealed with any cut to repair rusted metal.


David
 
16-04-16 - 2.jpg 16-04-16 - 3.jpg 16-04-16 - 5.jpg The chassis has various holes to reach the inner areas. I will use Mike Sanders grease as rust prevention.

Today I had a longggg day sand blasting the suspension parts:
 
Last edited:
Jurgenz, What are you going to paint the suspension with? Are you familiar with POR15? Sold by Frost's, it dries to a rock hard gloss but once the lid has been levered open, the paint must be used up. By next day, you will destroy the can trying to get the lid open and the paint will have set. Use disposable brushes too ;-)
 
I don't know that brand, thanks for the advise! I bought epifanes 2K paint, hope that wil work too.
 
Cor those parts look great....can you do mine tomorrow please ? :D
 
I don't know that brand, thanks for the advise! I bought epifanes 2K paint, hope that wil work too.

Jurjenz, Have a look at www.frost.co.uk They are lots and lots of paints, etc, for car restorers. I painted the suspension of my Lomax 223 in light grey POR15 and it came up like glass. I bought a box of very small tins as I could throw each away after I had used them. They won't keep for a second day.

PS How I envy you your grit blasting cabinet.
 
WP_20160515_13_48_09_Pro.jpg WP_20160515_17_15_36_Pro.jpg WP_20160515_17_15_45_Pro.jpg WP_20160515_17_15_54_Pro.jpg
Oeff, we have been busy mounting the rear axle to the chassis. Definately a two man job!:waving:
After a few hours it was mounted, happy me!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top