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Rodeo Recommissioning

It's common to use plastic cages on low noise spec bearings. Certainly not suitable for wheel bearing application, though. I have seen them on gearbox input shafts on many modern cars, where it's very common to fail in exactly the same way as yours.
 
Yikes! Definitely not for wheel bearings.... Are there any part numbers engraved on them? Would be interesting to see what they were.
 
It's good to know the bearings weren't supposed to be there. They are SNR 10N6206 but it looks like there are some different types with that number and I guess my variety is U12.

The F111B variant would be good for a wheel bearing but I can't see that written anywhere so probably someone bought the wrong type.

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The bearings in the Renault old stock box that went back on are engraved with 10N 6206 F111 B. They'll be the steel cage ones.

What a pain of a job again - it's a drum brake car and the front brake hose had to be disconnected to remove the driveshaft. Noticed the brake pipe routing was wrong so made up some new brake pipes and tied the steering rack boot that had been pulled off back on. Then when finally back together noticed one of the new lower ball joints has a split boot and I'm out of stock. Delphi one on order (and a couple of spares) and I may as well change it before bleeding the brakes.

How are the brake pipes secured on the early cars? The old ones were unsupported and I couldn't see any holes for brake pipe clips where they are found on later cars.

Struggled to get the puller to stay under the bearing but it's OK as I got creative with cable ties. :-)

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malcolm said:
How are the brake pipes secured on the early cars? The old ones were unsupported and I couldn't see any holes for brake pipe clips where they are found on later cars.
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Mostly plastic pipe clips as used on later cars. I have seen sheet metal hook style clips at some points, too.
 
I had a lot of problems with driveshaft clearance to the lower wishbones with some new old stock driveshafts. After a year of messing and trying other lower ball joints I ended up hitting the lower wishbone with a hammer a little to make some more space.

Today the Rodeo came out of hibernation and set a new record by driving 14km without breaking down at all. I made it all the way home without breaking down even once! It stalls when it comes to rest and needs a little choke to run nicely. I'm going to guess vacuum leaks. That's next on the list to fix.

Thinking about cutting down on cars a bit. I want to build a new garage and it would be much easier if it was a 2 car garage. Maybe the Rodeo and R5 might be the ones to go.
 
malcolm said:
I had a lot of problems with driveshaft clearance to the lower wishbones with some new old stock driveshafts. After a year of messing and trying other lower ball joints I ended up hitting the lower wishbone with a hammer a little to make some more space.

Today the Rodeo came out of hibernation and set a new record by driving 14km without breaking down at all. I made it all the way home without breaking down even once! It stalls when it comes to rest and needs a little choke to run nicely. I'm going to guess vacuum leaks. That's next on the list to fix.

Thinking about cutting down on cars a bit. I want to build a new garage and it would be much easier if it was a 2 car garage. Maybe the Rodeo and R5 might be the ones to go.
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Not fun to scale down the car park, but you should definitely do what feels best now.
To have fun with the cars you need space, time and money. If some of these are missing we have to adapt or survive.
I'm an eccentric person so in hard times I survive with all my cars. Can't recommend it.
 
I did some more work on the Rodeo today and it only broke down once which is pretty good. This time it was rust from the fuel tank that had got past the fuel filter and settled in the float chamber blocking the main jet. I'll need to take the tank out and give it a good clean.

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I took the (standard) main jet out and ran a drill bit through - just holding a 1mm drill bit in a pair of pliers and turning the jet by hand. It didn't remove any metal but did remove a thick coating of white residue. Now the mixture seems about right.

Onto the timing I found a big difference between static and dynamic timing so set it statically like the book said. The idle was much better and it stopped stalling at junctions but didn't feel very eager and popped on over-run. I added a few more degrees of advance and the car runs much better but stalls at junctions again. I think the distributor might be a bit worn. I've increased the idle speed a bit to fix it.

I'm thinking about taking the Rodeo to work tomorrow. It'll be the longest trip so far. I'm taking tools!

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To prevent rust entering the carb I use a inline plastic see through filter with paper filter inside. I have it before the fuel pump cos it's a mesh filter there that also can clog. I have a spare one with me and tools to change if necessary.
Best is to clean tank very thorough, and then put an inline filter before pump second best just put in the filter.
I use Green One as much as possible, to sort out the car. Mine have to cope with 95okt (e10)
Good luck tomorrow.

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That's a good point. I chopped up the fuel filter (mine is after the pump) and there was a lot less sludge in the filter than was in the float chamber. Maybe I shouldn't buy cheap fuel filters. I've changed it for an old one that should hopefully last until the fuel level gets low enough to remove the tank.

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malcolm said:
That's a good point. I chopped up the fuel filter (mine is after the pump) and there was a lot less sludge in the filter than was in the float chamber. Maybe I shouldn't buy cheap fuel filters. I've changed it for an old one that should hopefully last until the fuel level gets low enough to remove the tank.

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Think you can use cheap paper filters. I do but you need to change before it looks lik yours. Mine have a mesh filter inside the pump that was clogged. Maybe you need to check yours (you can cheat and check flow from fuel line in a bottle when cranking the engine, it should come a lot).
If pump is ok then I should put a paper filters before pump and one after.
Best regards
 
I made it to work and back - a total of 50km! The Rodeo ran very well. It can keep up with trucks easily but won't go much faster than that.

Hopefully I can do another 100km this week to empty the fuel tank so I can clean it out at the weekend. That fuel filter was new and the float chamber clean half a tank ago. I don't know if it is rust or some additive gone wrong in the old petrol.
 
i have had success on using stuff from hardware stuff but forgot exact chemicals used
i have documented it online maybe my rodeo build thread or one of my Facebook posts elsewhere
 
The tank was very rusty inside. I ended up using brick cleaner - seems to be the same stuff as spirit of salts. I took some before and after shots.

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Unfortunately some of the pitting went all the way through the tank. I've ordered some tank sealer.

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A new tank would be about £400 after postage and import taxes. The tank is strong, it just has some pin holes from the rust. A tank sealer should seal the holes and prevent further rust.
 
malcolm said:
A new tank would be about £400 after postage and import taxes. The tank is strong, it just has some pin holes from the rust. A tank sealer should seal the holes and prevent further rust.
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Then it's just to seal it (guess you seen I'm not flooding my objects with cash, prefer to restore). I thought they were cheaper.
 
Personally, I would install a new strong steel fuel tank, instead of patching up the old rusted one with some kind of coating. Where there are already holes, there are many more potential holes and the old steel remains weak and crispy and we all know R4's rust from the inside out, the coating does not make it better or stronger.
Reading reviews about coating the inside of a fuel tank, many people are not convinced.
 
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I have got a spare Renault petrol tank from the rodeo 5 that I scrapped this is the deeper type which takes more fuel I suspect it may also be rusty but I kept it just in case there must be somebody else on the forum if you put a wanted advert up that's in the UK
 
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