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look what I found

This week, I started work on the cylinder head. I found it quite difficult to press down the valve springs with one hand and remove the collets (keepers) with the other, so I built a simple jig to help me. I expected the collets to fall out but they were firmly held in place by old thick oil. With the jig, I could use two hands to remove them.

Once the springs were removed, I also expected the valves to slide out through the guides, but they got stuck. The tops of the valves had mushroomed from contact with the rockers (incorrect gap settings.) After some advice from Angel, I polished the tops with 400 grit paper for about 15 minutes and that allowed them to slide through the guides.

Here are some photos of the jig, they might help someone. Took me 30 minutes to make and cost nothing.

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Yes an other example of "Boer maak plan" Clever engineering Dave. I had this done by the company that checked the head for me.
 
Thank you! I did in fact buy a valve spring compressor for 25Euro but it did not fit, which was a good thing because it made me think and make my own tool
 
a good piece of home engineering I don't normally use a spring compressor to dismantle valves from:st heads as a deep socket can be used providing the cylinder head is supported on wood clear of the bench to allow the valves to move down
simply using a quick blow from a hammer the socket will press down on the top plate and the collets will then jump out and remain inside the socket Saving Much Time
 
I've seen the hammer method before and it admittedly is very quick, but I wanted a tool that I could use to also replace the collets. Anyway, me and hammers are a bad combination.

I forgot that the rocker shaft is in two pieces, meeting in the middle.
Each end of the shaft has about 4mm of thread, ( I wish there was more thread), so its easy to screw in a bolt for extraction. I used a piece of wood to protect the aluminium head and as I undid the nut on the bolt, it pulled the shaft out.

Can anyone tell me how the rocker arm is lubricated? There is a pinhole size hole on the top of the rocker, is this to allow oil in? The shaft itself also has holes underneath that fall within the rocker shaft bearing, but I've no idea why the holes are there.

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Oil under pressure arrives from the block through a drilling near the center cylinder head bolt, then through the bolt hole in the head it is directed to the hollow rocker shafts. It comes out through the holes on the shafts, lubricates the rocker arms, and exits them from their holes.
 
Thanks for that, Angel. I found the hole eventually, the oil drops in from the roof of the bearing.
That is the reason for the inner ends of the shafts being open,(to receive the oil) and probably why it is important during restoration to ensure that the inside of those shafts and the holes are thoroughly cleaned of old thick oil.
My rockers were seized onto the bar

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And now we come to a small, but probably very important part of the valve assembly. And that is the seating washer that the valve spring rests on. Without the washer, the spring would sit directly on the aluminium head and eventually cause some damage.

When I removed the springs I found that No 6 valve didn't have a washer-luckily no damage to the head. I don't think that it would have left the factory like that, so I imagine that someone must have worked on the engine before me and lost the washer.

Looking for a replacement, I went to 3 or 4 car parts shops, a couple of garages and also contacted der Franzose. Even Renault said that they don't stock that part anymore.

I ended up going to a turner and had a washer made up at a cost of 10Euro. I was told that the washers are very hard steel, so they made the replacement using 30CND8 grade steel, which is apparently harder that stainless steel.

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The cylinder head has been cleaned and re-assembled with valves and springs, rocker bar and rockers, and looking a lot better than when I started.
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There is one thing that is holding up any further progress. A couple of Black Redstarts have decided to build a nest right above my head. The mother bird had been sitting on her eggs for about 2 weeks already and I can't get any work done. She gets a fright whenever I walk in, so I've decided to wait until the babies are ready to fly before I continue.

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In the meantime, I've started some work on the body. The area behind the engine was quite rusty, so I've sanded it smooth and applied a rust killer, then sprayed 2 coats of primer

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Another pair of Black Redstarts made a second nest on top of my fluorescent light fitting. All the baby birds have hatched and are now happily flying around our garden.
And after two lots of overseas visitors have finally left, I can get back to my workshop even after the discovery of a 5 foot snake under my work bench. I'm hoping it left on its own accord during the night!

My oil filter has been cleaned and is back in place.

Replacing the sump was more difficult than I thought. I used a silicon based gasket adhesive with a 5 minute workable time. Forgetting that it was a cork gasket, I overtightened the bolts causing the gasket to push outwards in some places.
I'm still trying to decide whether I should order another gasket or try and save this gasket and redo the job. If it leaks later I'll kick myself!!
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Silicone and Cork definitely do not mix I would of used blue hylomar or spray contact adhesive just to hold the gasket in place the bolts need nipping and not really tightening as the gasket will slide out as you have found
 
Thanks Mr Reno, I wish that I had spoken to you first. The product that I used is recommended for sumps and rocker covers. Its ok for temperatures up to 250 degrees and resistant to lubricants and antifreeze, but not fuel/petrol.

I didn't think about its compatibility with cork. What is the problem? Does it not adhere to the cork?

I didn't put a lot on, just a light smear with my finger basically to hold the gasket in place. Perhaps grease would have worked as well.
Any suggestions? Should I try and remove the gasket? I'm not too happy that it has been pushed out a little in places.

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Most moder cars renaults included don't actually use gaskets the product you have bought is intended to be used instead of a gasket but I would take it off and start again as another gasket not expensive
Taking it off in situ not funny
 
I've removed the sump again and found that the silicon peals off the cork quite easily. I don't think I could use the gasket again as it's fairly compressed, so I'll be ordering another one.

I'm not too sure what hylomar blue is and if its available in France. Before I did the job I went to 4 different auto places (Renault as well) and asked for a gasket adhesive and thats how I ended up using silicon blue.

after doing a bit of research, I've found that a lot of people use grease on older cars with the cork gasket. Some use Vaseline.

Because my engine is lying on its side the gasket tends to slip off so I need something to keep it in place.

You've obviously done 100's of cars so what do you usually do? Could I use grease? Please just tell me the whole procedure from A to Z. I need to hear it from someone who knows what they're talking about
 
This is the best thing I have ever used with gaskets or sometimes instead gaskets. It is sometimes even useful to stop leakage just by putting it on the place of the leak ( externaly - withouth removing the parts first )
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I've had the sump off my rodeo engine and I just used contact adhesive
Mine was from an aerosol.
I found a few gaskets today including 3 of these 20150724_170412.jpg
 
Haven't heard of that make Chudson, but I see once again that its a silicon product, like mine I think.

I'm obviously in the market for a new gasket Mr Reno, so if you have one available,I'll gladly buy it from you. I was going to order one from Oscaro tomorrow.
Sometimes the simple jobs become ridiculously complicated
 
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