R4 GTL 1985 Restoration

[JdeW]

Again a few pictures about dismantling the engine.

The oil pump is later to be further disassembled and cleaned.


A peek behind camshaft sprocket. Chain and sprockets look good, usually go with 500,000 km (312500 mi) before having to be replaced.


Removing the camshaft, first remove the distributor shaft (which is very easy on Cleon type engines)


A peek on the crankshaft.


Connecting rod bearings on piston No. 1.


Extracting the piston with its liner.


Keep everything on sequence and to each other.


17 bhp left


And finally the connecting rod bearings on piston No. 4.


A peek at the connecting rod faces on the crankshaft and decided it will get a grinding and polishing turn.

 

[JdeW]

With an old clamp and a homebrew welded tool you can screw and detach valve springs.


Little carbon deposits but otherwise just fine.


Again, keep everything on sequence and to each other.


A peek on the cylinder head and cleaning job No. (I lost count)




Funny that the oil pressure sensor always did his job, given the sludge ...


When previously draining the coolant, nothing came out of the engine drain plug.


Only now you can easily see why not, a nice accumulation of stuff called ...


Meanwhile I received some repair material.


I'll have to wait for some first welding, untill I get my hands on a chassis jig from one of the dutch forum members.
For now I will get my hands dirty on cleaning and soda blasting all of the engine parts, as well as ordering new bearings, seals and so on.
This will keep me and my son busy for weeks

 

[Jurjenz]

Wow, it can definately use a good cleaning and it is going to be very rewarding! Can't wait to see a next update, keep it up!

 

[JonathanT]

With an old clamp and homebrew welded tool you can screw and detach valve springs.

Little carbon deposits but otherwise just fine as well as the valve guides.

Again, keep everything on sequence and to each other.

A peek on the cylinder head and cleaning job No. (I lost count)

Funny that the oil pressure sensor always did his job, given the sludge ...

When previously draining the coolant, nothing came out of the engine drain plug.

Only now you can easily see why not, a nice accumulation of stuff called ...

Meanwhile I received some repair material.

I'll have to wait for some first welding, untill I get my hands on a chassis jig from one of the dutch forum members.
For now I will get my hands dirty on cleaning and soda blasting all of the engine parts, as well as ordering new bearings, seals and so on.
This will keep me and my son busy for weeks

Thats a great descision with the complete rear chassis leg replacement. I was wondering how you would check the alignment following complete removal. A chassis jig would solve that

 

[petak]

pictures, pictures and writing down every step of the way is crucial thing to do if you want your car back again

I have full booklet drawing, measurements, and steps how to.......just in case.....

I did not have timeframe for the job and took me 5 and half years to do it.....aldo i could not buy every chassis parts but had to made it on my own.

It is good to have new car and project on the forum.

will follow your progress

 

[JdeW]

And now for something completely different...
The last couple of weeks I couldn't spent time on the R4 restoration, I was held up by a major domestic restoration as there was a water leakage in my kitchen and the whole oak wooden floor came to life .
So I made a decision to completely replace the 22mm full oak wooden floor for marble floor tiles.

 

[JonathanT]

And now for something completely different...
The last couple of weeks I couldn't spent time on the R4 restoration, I was held up by a major domestic restoration as there was a water leakage in my kitchen and the whole oak wooden floor came to life .
So I made a decision to completely replace the 22mm full oak wooden floor for marble floor tiles.

Found the source.

And the cause.

Remove old floor.

The dog is helpfull as ever, especially defending his favorite spot the wood stove.

The floor layout.

Adding some benefits.

Almost done.

Grouting.

And done

Nice Job!

 

[JdeW]

Thanks Jonathan, but I'd rather have greasy hands than hurting my knees on doing some masonry

 

[JonathanT]

Hmmm I know the feeling .....I'm on repainting the entire house duty

 

[petak]

It is not always good thing to have many skils like you do have.

 

[JdeW]

It is not always good thing to have many skils like you do have.

I know but all my mothers and both son in laws really are all thumbs, so I've got many households to maintain in DIY.
But extra help is on it's way as my oldest son is in training for Carpenter and the youngest son a megatronica student

 

[JdeW]

Spring has started and after spending too much time in household DIY's, it's now time to get things going on the R4

This means cleaning and cleaning... it's spring-cleaning time after all




As I mentioned earlier, spark-plug no. 2 was out of allignment. After cleaning it appears the thread had been refurbished and replaced. Luckely NOT a terrible heli- or v-coil.


More spring-cleaning...










To get rid of all the black sludge I decided to seperate the innerpart from the valve cover.


After a cleanjob I welded it together on 12 points.

 

[JdeW]

Sanding, priming, sanding, filling, sanding, priming, sanding, painting, painting, sanding, painting, painting, painting, sanding, painting, painting, painting, painting, sanding, painting ...

 

[Jurjenz]

Wow, lovely progress! Good choise to clean the valve cover. Keep it up!

 

[Sutree]

What a lovely job. Well done JdeW!

 

[JdeW]

And further and further we go and with the weather it's also going the right way.

Grinding valve seats,


and don't forget to grind the feet of the cylinder bushes.


Result before and after grinding so the cylinder foot seals will properly fit.


New springs for the pistons.


Piston and cylinder bush are reunited by means of a pushing piston compressor, and with some motivation of a soft hammer, reunification is a fact.


The various seals, the choice is huge.


Of course, the gap (clearance) is determined with a measuring instrument so that it is within their tolerance.


Placed and secured cylinder bushes, pay attention to Arrow at the top of each piston, pointing to flywheel side.


Turn the block a bit and continue with work on the underside, placed new bearings, placed crankshaft and crankshaft- and conrod caps.

 

[JdeW]

Aaaarrgghhh, a small disaster.
Of course, there's always a bolt that will fail during a massive 40Nm of violence.


It's only 1 but I replace all conrod bolts and nuts.
Can't live with the idea that one or more of the remaining 7 old bolts suddenly collapse under metal fatigue in a near future. Don't dare to play with Murphy's law
Fortunately, there is still enough NOS to be found, if you are patient and keep searching.


All 4 connecting rods are fitted with their NOS-parts and also fitted the oil pump.


The camshaft is in turn,


Sprocket placed and set the timing, timing chain and tensioner in place.


With the correct position of drive shaft for the distributor you need to be patient.


New head gasket placed and with the well-known home, garden and kitchen tools, the valves are returned.


Everything is getting shape again.




Torque wrenching nuts and bolts and also the cylinder head bolts get their first moment, they will be treated in the future.

More to come, next time

 

[Jurjenz]

Wow, good progress! Love to see to spin that engine!

 

[JdeW]

Again a small update.
The work consists of cleaning and revision of various components. The water pump has been done and the original Ducellier generator was already been revised at Valeo. But Valeo isn't Ducellier so still need to find the original, nothing beats originality.

I also found out that the installed distributor originated from a R5, and a R5 isn't a R4.


Fortunately I found an original Ducellier R4 distributor and gave it a well deserved cleaning.

Ready for assembly.


The original Ducellier starter engine is in turn, here a small exploded view.


The stator is kindly contaminated with some wear of the copper brushes.


Give it a cleansing.


The rotor also didn't look that fresh anymore.


Give it a cleansing.


The outer parts receive a layer of primer and slowly they regain color again.


Ready for assembly.

 

[JdeW]

A look around the gearbox ....


Disassembling which makes it easier to clean.


No words....


Upper lid and a peek in the gear case.


The front cover is also excused.


After a few hours we see again that the lids truly are made from aluminum and the cap of the vent valve is really original blue.


Next time more progress, for now I have a long weekend holiday.