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look what I found

Probably brake limiter valve seized
2types one sealed unit one attached rear suspension on later cars
 
Thanks mr reno, let's hope that's not the case:(

I've read that the valve opens when there is extra weight at the back of the car. I know it's probably been discussed here before.

would jacking the wheel up and adding a lot of weight to the back of the car have the same effect?
 
Well, mr-reno was correct, something has seized inside:(

The funny thing is that I loosened the bleeder valves on both back wheels and blew air through the brake lines all the way to the master cylinder and it was clear. But the brakes still can't be bled, no fluid gets through.

What I did today, I never ever want to do again.

I removed the back brake compensator which took me 6 hours.

4 brake lines and 3 bolts/nuts and when I put it back, I'll probably have to take out the patrol tank first because one of the nuts is completely inaccessible.

such a difficult place to work even with the back wheel off. tomorrow I'll be cleaning and taking it apart.

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IMGP1545.jpg
 
The linkage could be seized or the piston itself need to dismantle valve from bracket to investigate further
2 versions of this type 3 or 4 holes
Also used R12 R16 great fun refitting metal pipes in the tiny muddy space
 
mojobaby said:
No Sutree, no welding and only a little surface rust.

Removed all the mud with a wire brush and it's looking a lot better. now I have to use anti-rust and then protective paint
View attachment 18512
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mojobaby said:
No Sutree, no welding and only a little surface rust.

Removed all the mud with a wire brush and it's looking a lot better. now I have to use anti-rust and then protective paint
View attachment 18512
Click to expand...

Good job Mojobaby
It Isn't look so rusty now!
 
Abosolutely brilliant!!!! Love the finished look, can't wait to see the completion. Keep at it ;)
 
After reading the Heynes manual, I thought that removing the fuel tank was going to be a quick job.

It really doesn't just drop down after the 2 bolts at the back and one in front have been undone. The bracket behind the tank definitely has to come out first

I removed the 3 bolts on each side of the bracket and it still wouldn't budge. Finally after another half hour, I discovered another 2 bolts on top. If you look into the boot space, the 2 bolts that hold the safety belts to the floor go right through into the bracket.

IMGP1556.jpg
 
Although there are plenty of previous post about fuel tanks and their senders, I can't seem to find any information on how to undo the cap that holds the sender.

Does it screw off or pull out or is it a twist first and then pull? Can anyone help please. I really don't want to break anything.

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Hi Mojo,

Dépose de la jauge d'essence ... place the end of a rod against one of the little notches and then gently tap it counterclockwise loose with a small hammer.
Described like here
And uhmmm take precautions incase of fire....:flame:
Greets, Joop
 
As Jdew sad. You must turn sender by tapping it gently until grooves on sender come in line with grooves on tank walls.
Then you need to pull it out and turn until it free.
 
petak said:
As Jdew sad. You must turn sender by tapping it gently until grooves on sender come in line with grooves on tank walls.
Then you need to pull it out and turn until it free.[/QUO

It looks like just turn it anti-clockwise.

Maybe i miss something, there´s any fuel inside? Take careful.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks JdeW and Petak, I never knew there was an outer ring on that cap; I thought it was just one piece. Thanks for your help and advice.:)

I hope my sender is in better condition than Sylvie.

Thanks sutree I will be careful.

Brake limiter looking a little better now
IMGP1560.jpg
 
Before and after photos. The top of the tank was previously unpainted and even after 34 years. there's no sign of rust. The inside of the tank was also rust free and still had a cup of old fuel with a lot of sediment, but that's been washed out with fresh fuel.

Taking the sender unit out was quite difficult, the hole should have been 2mm wider. I thought it would be difficult putting it back, but it slid in quite easily (at a slight angle)

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Good work Mojo the fueltank looks brand new again :clapping:
Indeed it's a bit of a pain to get the sender out, turning and getting the right angle...pffff.
Also make sure that the sender does make good contact with the resprayed tank and that the tank makes good contact with the chassis!
As the chassis is connected with the minus of the battery, the fuel tank is minus for the sender, it's all connected or otherwise the fuel indicator on the dash gives false or no reading.
Regards, Joop
 
shiiiiinnnnyyyyyyy.....ups.:D..not...but nice.....as new.

Yes, it is trouble to take out sender as you do not know where and how much need to tilt it.
 
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