Clementine's Garage
Clementine the Cat
 
Image of flower
Yellow R4
 
home my cars restoration tech tips guides forum
Réparateur d'automobiles

look what I found

The hole underneath the pump is a vent for the seals and it will drip from there if it has got a problem do not worry too much about WD-40 damaging your clutch the water should drain out of the slot under the flywheel and the WD-40 Will Speed its progress
Try the boiling kettle trick
Or spend €50 euros on a new pump
I know what i would do
This is common problem on engines been standing few years
 
Isn't it possible to open the pump and change the seal ? I did that on an old FIAT water pump where the seal was sold as a repair kit.
 
I tried the hot water trick and when I started the car I didn't get spray on the inner wings so I think that the vent has sealed.

However, I'm now getting quite a bad drip from somewhere else, maybe the gaskets, I can't tell. So I called it quits and emptied and removed the radiator for the 4th time so I can take off the water pump tomorrow. Just hope I can reuse the gaskets.

As a matter of interest, what is the best way to seal the water pump to the engine block. It has paper gaskets and I used grease before. Should I be using a silicon product?

Unfortunately I can't get close enough to see the leak while the engine is running. I've burnt my arms so many times on the exhaust and nearly blinded myself with the coolant spray.

I'm not too sure, Chudson, the seal might be available but not from our normal suppliers.

Having the silencer under the front wing is not the cleverest design as well. Because of radiant heat the inner wing heats up so badly that I can't rest my hand on it. Is that normal??
I wouldn't mind changing the exhaust system to the GTL design and have the silencer at the back. Has anyone done that?
 
Ok another tip if you have got a spare coolant bottle cap lever it apart and then use a tubeless tyre valve you can make a DIY pressure tester
Pump up to 15 psi
Bars equivalent?
Pic tommorow if needed
 
Mr Reno, I've just edited my previous post which you might have missed. I asked if there was any special way to seal the water pump paper gaskets. I used grease before.
and thank you, I would appreciate the photo to see how you connected it
 
Just read that you've taken radiator back out
Oops my tip want work then
Obviously I can't do 24hr support for every R4 but if you are on whatsapp or facebook messenger I can maybe resolve this issue easier ☺
Phone number on profile page
 
Many thanks, sorry to keep you up all night. I'll keep you posted after I remove the water pump.
What? you don't do 24hr support for every R4? I thought thats what we paid you for:)
 
Ok how about while radiator out remove fan blades and cowling put radiator back in place just a few bolts to keep in place
Then run engine it won't overheat as long as it's not more than 10 mins on idling speed
You should have better viewing acess
Gaskets I would ofeither fitted dry or thin smear hylomar
Silicon and gasket not my favourite
Silicon in its own if gasket not available
The later ohc megane etc engines don't have gasket from new just silicon btw
Other idea for pressure test system include taking hose off bottle and fitting directly to foot tyre pump especially if you have got Glass type
Photo of my home made one later this morning
How much is new water pump locally to you out of interest ?
 
Necessity is the mother of invention! What a great idea and design.

I'll see if I can figure out something like that. The cheapest water pump at the moment is from Oscaro. 35 Euro plus 2 Euro postage. If I get desperate I might be tempted
 
I ended up buying another water pump for 35 Euros. When I had the old one on the bench I could feel a little play in the wheel so I think that the bearing was probably worn, thus causing the leak.
IMGP1366.JPG
and here's my next problem........

As the engine was running I noticed that fuel was leaking from the little dome on top of the carb. Really shooting out!!

When I switched off, it sounded like the fuel was boiling in the carb. I'm sure that's impossible because the boiling point of petrol is 95 degrees Centigrade. How could it get so hot?

Perhaps the noise was only bubbles escaping from somewhere, I've no idea actually.

Can someone tell me what is the purpose of the dome on top of the carb. Can it be removed? Is there a seal underneath? Or is it a pressure release valve?

IMGP1369.JPG
 
There is a gauze filter under that tiny rivet
Have covered this and nearly every possible r4 problem in the last 10 yrs on this forum
If the carb is flooding it will drip into manifold which is hot enough to boil fuel
If your luck it may be a sticky needle valve in carb
 
Really appreciate your help, for a moment I thought the fuel was boiling in the carb, which confused me a little. I was also scared that it would catch alight! I'll have a look at the needle valve too.

I'm sure that every possible topic has previously been discussed many times. You yourself have said, "This forum is generally slow enough that lots of us are patiently clicking new post daily to get our fix of R4 gossip"

The reason that we put up current problems, is that it is just that. A current problem. And far more interesting than something that happened 5 years ago. While I always appreciate your help and advice, if its a hassle for you, just don't answer.
 
I can't ignore my renault 4 friends as you are like my extended family ☺
It is a very fine line to offer help and not become interfering with others ideas
I was on the phone to jonathon T at 23 45 helping advise on brake problems
Can't wait to get back on track with my Rodeo project
Always here keep so asking away ☺
 
mojobaby said:
I ended up buying another water pump for 35 Euros. When I had the old one on the bench I could feel a little play in the wheel so I think that the bearing was probably worn, thus causing the leak.
View attachment 16757
and here's my next problem........

As the engine was running I noticed that fuel was leaking from the little dome on top of the carb. Really shooting out!!

When I switched off, it sounded like the fuel was boiling in the carb. I'm sure that's impossible because the boiling point of petrol is 95 degrees Centigrade. How could it get so hot?

Perhaps the noise was only bubbles escaping from somewhere, I've no idea actually.

Can someone tell me what is the purpose of the dome on top of the carb. Can it be removed? Is there a seal underneath? Or is it a pressure release valve?

View attachment 16758
Click to expand...

I had also problem with petrol leaking from this vent when I tried to start red one Gtl for the first time. Losted plastic float holder caused it.
 
Her engine is running well, so I made a start on the back brakes today. When I worked on the front brakes, I had to borrow a drum puller and really struggled, but in comparison, the back brakes are so far quite easy.

The grease cap was knocked off by hitting it from different angles with a block of wood

Then came the split pin

I was surprised at how easy the nut came off. it's just finger tight

IMGP1394.JPG
Washer and bearing and then the drum just slid off without any effort
IMGP1395.JPG
Quite a mess inside and one of the shoes had no lining at all, I found it stuck to the inside of the drum:o

IMGP1398.JPG
 
Thanks Harbourseal, yes, both back wheels were seized and the brake cylinders as well. Its definitely time!

By the way, what type of grease do I use for the bearings. I think its Lithium, but I'm not sure
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Community platform by XenForo® © 2010-2024 XenForo Ltd.
Back
Top