- Thread starter Jurjenz
- Start date
JdeW
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,023
- Location
- Laarbeek The Netherlands
Hi Jurjen,
To me the engine sounds allright, although I don't have experience with the smaller Ventoux/Billancourt engines and 32 mm carbs.
I was always a fully dedicated GTL driver with the massive Cleon engines and Zenith 28IF carbs
Anyway good job so far and I'm curious when the marriage (bodyshell meets chassis) will be completed
To me the engine sounds allright, although I don't have experience with the smaller Ventoux/Billancourt engines and 32 mm carbs.
I was always a fully dedicated GTL driver with the massive Cleon engines and Zenith 28IF carbs
Anyway good job so far and I'm curious when the marriage (bodyshell meets chassis) will be completed
Jurjenz
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 468
- Location
- Groningen, Netherlands
hanks for your kind words! 
I did some small effort on the engine and I noticed when I shutt of the air bypass for idling, the engine runs much better (really much better). Though I did put in the restriction in the air hose, hmmm weird?
I also started working on the body! It took me 2 hours the get the side rear panels of... But it all seems in pretty good condition. Offcourse some minor welding needs to be done, but it is a very solid base to start with.
I did some small effort on the engine and I noticed when I shutt of the air bypass for idling, the engine runs much better (really much better). Though I did put in the restriction in the air hose, hmmm weird?
I also started working on the body! It took me 2 hours the get the side rear panels of... But it all seems in pretty good condition. Offcourse some minor welding needs to be done, but it is a very solid base to start with.
Last edited:
harbourseal
Renault R4 Lunatic
- Messages
- 1,045
- Location
- Breda The Netherlands
Good luck with the bodywork.
If the engine runs Much better with the air hose disconnected and blocked underneath the carburetor you have some air coming in somewhere.
To be honest idd start looking at the connections on the valve cover.
If the engine runs Much better with the air hose disconnected and blocked underneath the carburetor you have some air coming in somewhere.
To be honest idd start looking at the connections on the valve cover.
JonathanT
Not normal for Norfolk
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Wymondham Norfolk
Jurjenz I've just caught up with your video. Great intro and so good to put a face to a name. Your engine sounds great and some very nice work so far. Body shell looks very good too . Be careful though when you scrape some of the rust off on the top insides of the rear wheel arches as its easy to slip and Mark the body just above the wheel arch. Thoroughly check those seat belt fastenings too as they are double skinned and rust from the inside. I wonder how good your rear corners are where the boot floor meets the wheel arches? These were the trickiest part repair on my car. That's a lovely blue colour by the way. Do you intend to keep it blue? Oh and sorry for all this advice - make sure you don't leave any glass in the body or stored nearby where you will likely be using an angle grinder with a cutting disc. The sparks from cutting and grinding will make permanent marks on the glass if it touches it 
Jurjenz
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 468
- Location
- Groningen, Netherlands
Hi guys,
Free advice is always most welcome! Next time I will film a short walkaround on the body. For removing the rear side windows, is there a good & easy technique to remove them? Haven't done this before. (well tried the frontscreen, but that one broke..
)
About the engine, Harbourseal pointed out that the restriction in the vacuumhose should have a diameter of 1,3 mm. I put one in with a diameter 1,5 mm, so I will make a new one and see what happens. Sometimes it is just difficult to know what is true..
The Haynes manual says 1,5 mm
Lasylvie.fr i.e. says 1,3 mm
I also decided to buy a Velleman K2543 ignition set to improve the ignition. An affordable & useful improvement.
I have to say that my excitement is fully back! Feels real good to know that the engine is up & running and that I can now focus on the new chapter: working on outer body parts. I am trying to get the car done within 6 months!
Free advice is always most welcome! Next time I will film a short walkaround on the body. For removing the rear side windows, is there a good & easy technique to remove them? Haven't done this before. (well tried the frontscreen, but that one broke..
)About the engine, Harbourseal pointed out that the restriction in the vacuumhose should have a diameter of 1,3 mm. I put one in with a diameter 1,5 mm, so I will make a new one and see what happens. Sometimes it is just difficult to know what is true..
The Haynes manual says 1,5 mm
Lasylvie.fr i.e. says 1,3 mm
I also decided to buy a Velleman K2543 ignition set to improve the ignition. An affordable & useful improvement.
I have to say that my excitement is fully back! Feels real good to know that the engine is up & running and that I can now focus on the new chapter: working on outer body parts. I am trying to get the car done within 6 months!
Last edited:
petak
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,894
- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
There is no easy way to remove glass.
I have used 3-4-5 flat short screwdrivers with wide head and easily turn rubber from inside out.
Something similar to method when you remove tire on bicycle
Not in one move, but in few small moves.
First screwdriver put between rubber and metal edge, and then try to turn rubber over that metal edge and left screwdriver to hang stuck between rubber and metal.
Do the same thing with second screwdriver but 2 or 3 cm from first, then third screwdriver, and fourth.
Buy now you should have 10 to 15 cm of rubber over the metal edge.
Now remove first screwdriver, and put it behind fourth in same way.
And so on until you feel that it is possible to push glass away.
Press glass little bit form inside out just to hold it in that position for rubber not to get back.
Much easier if you have someone to hold glass from outside not to fall on the ground.
I start at the corner (rounded part of glass) and go over corner to the flat part of the glass. It is much easier to turn rubber inside out on that part of the glass.
Hope it is clear from word what you should do.
I have used 3-4-5 flat short screwdrivers with wide head and easily turn rubber from inside out.
Something similar to method when you remove tire on bicycle
Not in one move, but in few small moves.
First screwdriver put between rubber and metal edge, and then try to turn rubber over that metal edge and left screwdriver to hang stuck between rubber and metal.
Do the same thing with second screwdriver but 2 or 3 cm from first, then third screwdriver, and fourth.
Buy now you should have 10 to 15 cm of rubber over the metal edge.
Now remove first screwdriver, and put it behind fourth in same way.
And so on until you feel that it is possible to push glass away.
Press glass little bit form inside out just to hold it in that position for rubber not to get back.
Much easier if you have someone to hold glass from outside not to fall on the ground.
I start at the corner (rounded part of glass) and go over corner to the flat part of the glass. It is much easier to turn rubber inside out on that part of the glass.
Hope it is clear from word what you should do.
JonathanT
Not normal for Norfolk
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Wymondham Norfolk
Hi Jujenz Petaks method will work it's what I did too. The rear side windows are released by lifting the rubber on the inside. With one hand maintain even pressure on the centre of the glass while gently prising the rubber flange up. Start at a lower corner and work gently round the window. It will come out to the outside. A little washing liquid and water will help it slip out - apply this sparingly with a brush or it will get all over your hands and you might slip
JonathanT
Not normal for Norfolk
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Wymondham Norfolk
Looks remarkably good - agreed great colour too 
I see you've done the Wood Trick too! Keeping the front end together. Do be careful though as there is a lot of strain on the top inner wing where it meets the bulkhead and could split if the front isn't supported
I see you've done the Wood Trick too! Keeping the front end together. Do be careful though as there is a lot of strain on the top inner wing where it meets the bulkhead and could split if the front isn't supported
Last edited:
JdeW
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,023
- Location
- Laarbeek The Netherlands
It was in fact quite easy to remove the rear windows, thanks for your tips!
It was really satisfying to give the body a good cleaning! Love the colour!
Very nice GTL bodyshell
Jurjenz
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 468
- Location
- Groningen, Netherlands
Today I have been working on the body, and it was a long time ago I did some welding!
A short walkaround on the body with some good old party music
Cheers!
A short walkaround on the body with some good old party music
Cheers!
Last edited:
Millennium4can
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 27
- Location
- Spain
I am currently learning arc or stick welding not so easy well done.
JonathanT
Not normal for Norfolk
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Wymondham Norfolk
Nice work Jurgenz and great VIBE!
Great to have fun and take pride in your work too - Thanks for sharing
Millenium4Can - Stick or Arc welding is incredibly hard to master and I would suggest is not the right sort for a car body repair of this type.
However if you can do stick welding you most certainly will be able to do Mig welding, which is far easier in my opinion on thin bodywork.
See if you can borrow a Mig welder and have a go at it
Millennium4can
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 27
- Location
- Spain
Ah the welding is for a different project where functionality and durability are much more important than looks. Its great fun and very addictive. Mig welding you say. ...
