What have I done! (R4 GTL)

[ecurb.renots]

Had to order small copper rivet (3mm in diameter) from china. They came long time before this corona. But i was to buisy to deal with it till the end.

View attachment 25469

Testing all together with rivet
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View attachment 25471

Finished
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Till next silly small job on my R4 stay good and keep safe

I decided to change cooling fluid in my car as this one become very brown and full of sludge

I think i would have cheated and soldered in a wire link rather than fabricate and shape a new link, not original or as satisfying though.

 

[petak]

Sometimes i like to go harder way to the goal.
Do not know why but i just like it that way.
It feels more satisfiing if i manage to repair it close to the original part.

 

[ecurb.renots]

Sometimes i like to go harder way to the goal.
Do not know why but i just like it that way.
It feels more satisfiing if i manage to repair it close to the original part.

I don't disagree but usually I just want to get things functional again as quickly as possible and therefore take the easiest route

 

[AdamWilkes]

Nice attention to detail and well done for keeping existing bulb-holder in use, not in the bin!

 

[AdamWilkes]

I had a knocking sound from the right side and found a small amount of play in the upper wishbone bolt - where it mounts to the chassis. New bolt helps.

 

[petak]

AdamWilkes....Where did you get new bolt?

 

[JdeW]

You are a real craftsman Hrvoje, that's what I call restoring

 

[petak]

TX Jdew! You surpprised me with writing my name.

Wish i could spend more time "playing" with this kind of toys.

I have opened gearbox some 4-5 months ago and it is still in pieces.

 

[AdamWilkes]

AdamWilkes....Where did you get new bolt?

I found them not available as a normal part (maybe through Renault though?), so I bought a hex-head high-tensile bolt of M12 x 190mm 8.8 grade; I can't remember if I needed to cut a little off to fit in from the end (think I did) - don't forget suitable matching nyloc nut, as the thread was coarser with the new bolt. Helped a little, but I also found some slop in the chassis holes.

 

[petak]

Thank you Adam.

 

[AdamWilkes]

Thank you Adam.

I remember I think that the length needed to be 190mm to get enough plain bolt inside the wishbone, although the thread then needs trimming a bit.

 

[petak]

I remember I think that the length needed to be 190mm to get enough plain bolt inside the wishbone, although the thread then needs trimming a bit.

This is crucial info.

Trimming thread is not an issue!

 

[Eccles60]

Had to order small copper rivet (3mm in diameter) from china. They came long time before this corona. But i was to buisy to deal with it till the end.

View attachment 25469

Testing all together with rivet
View attachment 25470
View attachment 25471

Finished
View attachment 25472
View attachment 25473

Till next silly small job on my R4 stay good and keep safe

I decided to change cooling fluid in my car as this one become very brown and full of sludge

Please post the coolant change report. I should do this (and probably change the top and bottom hoses too) but I've never done the job on an R4 before... Thanks!

 

[petak]

You can read more about filling up coolinf fluid in this same topic some pages back.
Here is link to that post.
https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/what-have-i-done-r4-gtl.3996/page-12#post-46692

To empty cooling sistem you can take lover radiator hose off and open bleeding valve

 

[petak]

Last two days i am taking apart coolant system on my R4.
First i have drained old antifriz and then fill it up with water and sodium bicarbonate. And run with that water for 15-20min. Idea was to soften particles in engine block, radiator and heater matrix.
Not sure will that help and how much.

Yesterday cleaned expansion bottle, radiator and waterpump.
It took me almost one hour to achive clean water coming out from radiator.
I was filling out radiator with water, shake it well and drane that water. So much mud and small particles came out.
After one hour i reached situation that no mud or particles are coming out except redish water. Will leave it like that.
Did not take any picture of that proces.
But did pictures waterpump that was leaking around gasket.

And it was full of antifriz cristals.

Inside pump is in good shape. Spinning easily and without play. I am going to put new gaskez and put it back on the car.

I made autocad drawing of the waterpump gaskets if anyone need it to make his own gasket let me know. Can send it via email.



I tried to flush engine block with water but not much came out. Actally very soon water came out clears almost same as it came in. I even opened that plug on the back of the engine beside chain. But no water came out from their. Did i done something wrong?

Today task drain heater matrix same way i drained radiator.

 

[JdeW]

[QUOTE="petak, post: 68744, member: 2260" I even opened that plug on the back of the engine beside chain. But no water came out from their. Did i done something wrong? [/QUOTE]
Maybe the block was empty or maybe it was clogged. That perticular spot is a know Cleon engine cylinder 4 hotspot, almost no circulation and always a buildup of hardening sludge.
This picture shows the buildup in my Cleon engine, on the left side the rockhard build up where the drainplug resides, on the right side you see the tip of a small screwdriver (red circle) sticking threw the sludge.


Reading your story about the mud and other particles, maybe there's a build up of debri and sludge at the drainplug location

 

[petak]

Very likely it is cloged Jdew as you say.

But i do not know of i can do something about that unless engine is opened and removing cilinders.

 

[JdeW]

Maybe an extreme coolant system flush which removes scale, rust and deposits might do the trick so you don't have to open the engine.
Opening the engine is the last resort when in doubt.
Strange that mud and other particles where present in the coolant in the first place.

 

[Cornish4]

If you are going to replace your top and bottom radiator hoses Eccles60, please be aware that the bottom hose on a RHD car, which I believe yours is, has a couple of extra bends in it to clear the steering column, not a problem on LHD cars. These RHD hoses are harder to find I think, and won't be available from the usual suppliers, so probably NOS is your best bet, or there maybe a kind soul on here selling one.
Regards Brian.

 

[Domsky]

Maybe an extreme coolant system flush which removes scale, rust and deposits might do the trick so you don't have to open the engine.
Opening the engine is the last resort when in doubt.
Strange that mud and other particles where present in the coolant in the first place.

But there is a risk , if the paper seals are gone , the sludge is the only thing keeping water out of the crank case.