Amazing share!!
- Thread starter petak
- Start date
Any tip to put the bar on the new rubbers?
petak
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- 1,894
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- Vodice, Croatia
Sorry DAA, did not understand you good!
Did you mean how to put rubbers on antiroll bar or how to put antiroll bar on car.
To push rubbers on antiroll bar it can be hard as holes are tight fit. It helps if you greas bar. When you sliding rubber accross bar swing it left-right while pulling. It will make job easier.
To putt antiroll bar on the car first you must lift bouth ends of the car (left and right) so that wheels are in the air. That way antiroll bar will be losen and it is much easier to work with.
I hope i did answer to your question. If not, please rephrase question.
Cheers
Did you mean how to put rubbers on antiroll bar or how to put antiroll bar on car.
To push rubbers on antiroll bar it can be hard as holes are tight fit. It helps if you greas bar. When you sliding rubber accross bar swing it left-right while pulling. It will make job easier.
To putt antiroll bar on the car first you must lift bouth ends of the car (left and right) so that wheels are in the air. That way antiroll bar will be losen and it is much easier to work with.
I hope i did answer to your question. If not, please rephrase question.
Cheers
petak
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,894
- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
Yearly report
In 2021 my R4 and I have done 17100km and spend 1006liter of petrol (48mpg average) and 10600kn (1410€ or 1178 GBP)
Beside petrol i have spent additional 3500kn (465€ or 390GBP). TAX, insurance and MOT took 1950kn (260€ or 216GBP) and rest is spend for repairs, oil change, parts and extra.
Total amount for using R4 in 2021 is 14100kn (1875€ or 1568GBP)
Not bad for 29 years old car.
This year my car turns big 30.
In 2021 my R4 and I have done 17100km and spend 1006liter of petrol (48mpg average) and 10600kn (1410€ or 1178 GBP)
Beside petrol i have spent additional 3500kn (465€ or 390GBP). TAX, insurance and MOT took 1950kn (260€ or 216GBP) and rest is spend for repairs, oil change, parts and extra.
Total amount for using R4 in 2021 is 14100kn (1875€ or 1568GBP)
Not bad for 29 years old car.
This year my car turns big 30.
, rookie 33.
Richnd1974
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 567
- Location
- Bournemouth
Mines done 243,000km they get better with age
petak
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,894
- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
One more year behind us.
It was stormy and heavy. For him (R4) and for me
I had to swap engine as original one started to leak coolant into oilpan....interestingly he was running perfectly still. I belive flushing i have done some time ago took all rust and mud that was holding paper seals under cilinder liners sealed. Lesson learned.
Aldo "new" engine is not some happines but will have to do for now.
That time i have swaping engines i took opportunity and lift front end up, but lifted it to much. Now i am strugling to find time to put it little bit lower. Eight monts strugling so far. It is not easy and simple job. If someone now how to.do it easily let me know. And how to get right height at first attempt
And 100000km start to feel little bit
Despite all the obstacles, this year two of us made 15600km with 900liters of petrol which cost 1400€. Drive was economical with avarade 5,77l/100km on yearly base.
Insurance and MOT was additional 225€, and maintaince (parts and labor) 265€ more.
It will have to go in "box" for height adjustment.
And for this year i would like to renew original engine. Best combination would be to do it b miself with assistance of someone who "knows the job"
To all of you i wish you to be merry and that your rides (R4s) start always with first turn of the key.
It was stormy and heavy. For him (R4) and for me
I had to swap engine as original one started to leak coolant into oilpan....interestingly he was running perfectly still. I belive flushing i have done some time ago took all rust and mud that was holding paper seals under cilinder liners sealed. Lesson learned.
Aldo "new" engine is not some happines but will have to do for now.
That time i have swaping engines i took opportunity and lift front end up, but lifted it to much. Now i am strugling to find time to put it little bit lower. Eight monts strugling so far. It is not easy and simple job. If someone now how to.do it easily let me know. And how to get right height at first attempt
And 100000km start to feel little bit
Despite all the obstacles, this year two of us made 15600km with 900liters of petrol which cost 1400€. Drive was economical with avarade 5,77l/100km on yearly base.
Insurance and MOT was additional 225€, and maintaince (parts and labor) 265€ more.
It will have to go in "box" for height adjustment.
And for this year i would like to renew original engine. Best combination would be to do it b miself with assistance of someone who "knows the job"
To all of you i wish you to be merry and that your rides (R4s) start always with first turn of the key.
petak
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,894
- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
Setting ride height
Starting measurements were
I wanted that top of my wheel arches are at 615mm on left side and 610 on right side
Left side need to go down for 11mm, and right side for 30mm.
Change of one splin on front and rear end of torison bar changes height for 3mm.
That meens that left side need to go down for 11/3=3,67 splins and right side for 30/3=10splins
I decided to go with 4 splins on left side, and 10 splins on right side.
To lower car left torsion bar must be turned counterclockwise and right torsion bar must be turned clockwise.
After all work i got what i wanted. (not quite but will left it for now)
I would be more satisfied if left side is little bit higher (615mm)
I should go with 3 splines on left side instead of 4 but not going to do that now.
It is really a lot of work to dismantle whole front end on both sides and i am not in the mood to do that again right now
Will see if car will drop slightly after some time. If so then i will do setting again.
What i am confused is information that you get everywhere when you look for ride height. Even in official renault manual.
H1-H2 should be 41mm (+/-10mm)
But if i tried to reach that figure my wheel arc would go up somewhere around 650-660mm from the ground.
And that seem to high to me
Looking at Malcolms table at this link
it looks that any R4 is set like manuals sugests.
Or i am not getting it right.
Starting measurements were
LEFT SIDE [mm] | RIGHT SIDE [mm] | |
H1 | 255 | 255 |
H2 | 195 | 201 |
R = H1-H2 | 60 | 54 |
TOP OF WHEEL ARCH | 626 | 640 |
I wanted that top of my wheel arches are at 615mm on left side and 610 on right side
Left side need to go down for 11mm, and right side for 30mm.
Change of one splin on front and rear end of torison bar changes height for 3mm.
That meens that left side need to go down for 11/3=3,67 splins and right side for 30/3=10splins
I decided to go with 4 splins on left side, and 10 splins on right side.
To lower car left torsion bar must be turned counterclockwise and right torsion bar must be turned clockwise.
After all work i got what i wanted. (not quite but will left it for now)
LEFT SIDE [mm] | RIGHT SIDE [mm] | |
H1 | 255 | 255 |
H2 | 177 | 179 |
R = H1-H2 | 78 | 76 |
TOP OF WHEEL ARCH | 610 | 612 |
I would be more satisfied if left side is little bit higher (615mm)
I should go with 3 splines on left side instead of 4 but not going to do that now.
It is really a lot of work to dismantle whole front end on both sides and i am not in the mood to do that again right now
Will see if car will drop slightly after some time. If so then i will do setting again.
What i am confused is information that you get everywhere when you look for ride height. Even in official renault manual.
H1-H2 should be 41mm (+/-10mm)
But if i tried to reach that figure my wheel arc would go up somewhere around 650-660mm from the ground.
And that seem to high to me
Looking at Malcolms table at this link
it looks that any R4 is set like manuals sugests.
Or i am not getting it right.
angel
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 2,506
- Location
- Athens, Greece
It helps a lot if you take anti-roll bar off before measuring and put it back after completing adjustment. This way you will prevent or detect previously unequal torsion bar tensioning.
Measuring at the wheel arch on a car with a separate body and bolt-on wings and wheel arches will give confusing results. For a quick check it's better to measure chassis under jacking points.
There was somewhere a "hidden" note that cars equipped with tripod inner joints - all R4s after around 1972, in fact - should be set so that H1-H2 is 5mm lower (46mm). It may now look high to your eyes because you have lower profile tyres - with 145/80/13 tyres at 23psi I get H1 figures of 258-262 mm.
Check out this post too: https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-set-front-ride-heights.5693/#post-72343
Measuring at the wheel arch on a car with a separate body and bolt-on wings and wheel arches will give confusing results. For a quick check it's better to measure chassis under jacking points.
There was somewhere a "hidden" note that cars equipped with tripod inner joints - all R4s after around 1972, in fact - should be set so that H1-H2 is 5mm lower (46mm). It may now look high to your eyes because you have lower profile tyres - with 145/80/13 tyres at 23psi I get H1 figures of 258-262 mm.
Check out this post too: https://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-set-front-ride-heights.5693/#post-72343
petak
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 1,894
- Location
- Vodice, Croatia
Tx Angel!
I was reading carefully your topic. There i have found information about that "hidden" note and 46mm.
But my H1-H2 are still to far from 46mm.
As wings are bolted to chassis and chassis goes up and down depending on position of torsion bars my logic was telling me that height of car is connected to height of wheel aches.
(it does not mean i am right)
Comparing heights (H1-H2) at Malcolm’s table there is no many R4's set to that 41mm (or 46mm)
Not sure where up in the "sky" would end my wheel arches if i have set ground height to 41 or 46 mm.
It is really confusing in my head and still do not get it.... I am trying to find logic in these figures but cannot.
I have measured height at front end of chassis behind wheel. (10 cm in front of jacking point) - check picture
Before lowering left was 255mm, right was 260mm
Now it is left 238mm, right 235mm.
This is also confusing
I can see that you have removed only anti-roll bar. Hub, driveshaft and shock absorber are left intact.
I have taken all this apart.
My tires are 155/70/13 which is same in circumference and height as original 135/80/13
I get what i wanted but not quite happy as i do not understand why is such big difference in H1-H2 measurement in my case and in books.
In other word....have i done it correctly....is something wrong with my car?
I was reading carefully your topic. There i have found information about that "hidden" note and 46mm.
But my H1-H2 are still to far from 46mm.
As wings are bolted to chassis and chassis goes up and down depending on position of torsion bars my logic was telling me that height of car is connected to height of wheel aches.
(it does not mean i am right)
Comparing heights (H1-H2) at Malcolm’s table there is no many R4's set to that 41mm (or 46mm)
Not sure where up in the "sky" would end my wheel arches if i have set ground height to 41 or 46 mm.
It is really confusing in my head and still do not get it.... I am trying to find logic in these figures but cannot.
I have measured height at front end of chassis behind wheel. (10 cm in front of jacking point) - check picture
Before lowering left was 255mm, right was 260mm
Now it is left 238mm, right 235mm.
This is also confusing
I can see that you have removed only anti-roll bar. Hub, driveshaft and shock absorber are left intact.
I have taken all this apart.
My tires are 155/70/13 which is same in circumference and height as original 135/80/13
I get what i wanted but not quite happy as i do not understand why is such big difference in H1-H2 measurement in my case and in books.
In other word....have i done it correctly....is something wrong with my car?
angel
Enthusiast
- Messages
- 2,506
- Location
- Athens, Greece
Difference in H3 is because your car still sits too low. It's not something wrong. It's normal for the wheel arch gap to be huge when ride height is correctly set. Many people find it quite unsightly, but that's how an R4 looks :-) .