What have I done! (R4 GTL)

[petak]

WIll get there...eventually.

 

[laxeian]

Wasn’t 42 the meaning of life in ‘ The Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy ‘?

 

[André4Renaults]

"The answer to life, the universe, and everything.....!"

 

[petak]

Yes it was.....
With "speed of light" we are strive to that figure.

 

[petak]

That time of the year again

 

[jjad]

Beautiful!

 

[petak]

Driveshafts on the repertoire again.

Left one i have renewed by polishing grooves started to knock.

So i change it with another renewed in same way just so i can drive it.

Summery for changed drive shaft. Lived 4 months and 6500km
I must say it was not easy life for it.

For someone who is making 5tkm in one years this could work, but for me i would like to forget about driveshaft.

I have located company that is renewing driveshaft and will send them mine to see what they can do (can they do it better to last longer)

Also find one Metelli driveshaft brand new (not original and not renewed) and order it.
Hope it will do better.

Good side of all this....I need less than one hour to change driveshaft and be back on the road again!

 

[petak]

Front kayaba shocks arrived today





Have to find time to change front and rear set. Hope rain, that is faling last 4 days, will stop to fall till weekend.

 

[Grenuj]

in Montenegro no one making them available..
At my R4, rear shock A must be replaced as soon as possible.
how much did you pay them?

 

[petak]

I bought them at autodoc.si web shop. German car parts web shop with Slovenian branch
Price was some 30€ piece + 15€ shipping. 75€ total.
Autodock have discounts everyday from 25 to 40%
Idea is to follow prices and try to buy them cheapest possible.

 

[Domsky]

I bought them at autodoc.si web shop. German car parts web shop with Slovenian branch
Price was some 30€ piece + 15€ shipping. 75€ total.
Autodock have discounts everyday from 25 to 40%
Idea is to follow prices and try to buy them cheapest possible.

Only problem is you wait ages to get your parts, but quality and prices are good

 

[petak]

That could be problem if you are broken down and unable to move with your car.
I know for some time that my shocks are in bade shape and that will need to be changed in some time so i watched and save my self some 30€
Or if you know that there is some bigger service on your car you can plan and purchase parts for good prices.

 

[petak]

Since New Year has begun it is fair to give you some figures about last year life with my R4.


This was 5th year since car is back on the road and it has 242200km on the clock. 69000 since rebuild.

In 2020 i have done 13800km and spend 800liters of petrol that cost me 960€

Whole year average consumption is 5,7l/100km


MOT and insurance cost me 295€
4 new shocks were 130€
Some parts that i did not needed but was opportunity to buy them 100€
Service, parts, repairs additional 300€

Plans for this 2021 are
- installation of all 4 shocks
- installation of repaired steering rack
- new water pump
- rebuilt of carb - this is something i have to do once a year
- do some interior and exterior detail.
- go for some longer journey with it.


It looks like i am missing some detail when rebuilding and setting up carb on the car and i cannot figure it out what.
After rebuilt car have poor warm start but drives and accelerate perfectly.
During winter times i have good cold start but it is hard to adjust choke to right position for drive and for stop at idle at junctions.
If i pull choke to work good when i am standing still then it does not want to pull while i am driving. If i return choke for good drive then engine turn off when i stop at crossection and need to start it again.

When engine get warm it works good. Really good.

 

[petak]

Another MOT done. With no remarks. 6th in row.


Lately had some issues with starting and misfiring. IT was rader cold. -2°C and "bura" - strong nortwest cold wind.

I was thinking elctrical part or fuel pump or carb.
This time i started from easiest repair possible.
So take of dizzy cap, after two years that i did not touch it.
Conectors inside was green from oxide, and there was slightly dust inside.
Cleaned that green stuf, dust away cap and put it back.
Unbeliable, how differance was noticable.

So, for now, it will stay like this. Won't bother with fuel pump or carb. If misfiring comes back will look other possible problems

Also checked waterpump which i renewed year ago (put new gasket on old waterpump) but under it was dry


But why then i lose coolant in the bottle?

Closer inspection find where problem is

Rusty side of radiator


And small pool of cooland under radiator


And here is drop from radiator


So new radiator must put instead of this one.
I was thinking my waterpump is leaking but leak was on other side.


It is always fun with this car

 

[Domsky]

Another MOT done. With no remarks. 6th in row.


Lately had some issues with starting and misfiring. IT was rader cold. -2°C and "bura" - strong nortwest cold wind.

I was thinking elctrical part or fuel pump or carb.
This time i started from easiest repair possible.
So take of dizzy cap, after two years that i did not touch it.
Conectors inside was green from oxide, and there was slightly dust inside.
Cleaned that green stuf, dust away cap and put it back.
Unbeliable, how differance was noticable.

So, for now, it will stay like this. Won't bother with fuel pump or carb. If misfiring comes back will look other possible problems

Also checked waterpump which i renewed year ago (put new gasket on old waterpump) but under it was dry
View attachment 27846

But why then i lose coolant in the bottle?

Closer inspection find where problem is

Rusty side of radiator
View attachment 27847

And small pool of cooland under radiator
View attachment 27850

And here is drop from radiator
View attachment 27848

So new radiator must put instead of this one.
I was thinking my waterpump is leaking but leak was on other side.


It is always fun with this car

I just got my radiator in after months of delays but it was worth to wait

 

[petak]

Where did you buy it from?
I can see that has welded sides. Aluminium?
Most common place where it starta to leak is jont between radiator tubes and plastic sides.

 

[mr-reno-139]

Where did you buy it from?
I can see that has welded sides. Aluminium?
Most common place where it starta to leak is jont between radiator tubes and plastic sides.

think it is special competition part from melun retro passion

 

[Domsky]

Dcl

Where did you buy it from?
I can see that has welded sides. Aluminium?
Most common place where it starta to leak is jont between radiator tubes and plastic sides.

piéces compétition véhicule historique et rallye - DECL CONCEPT

DECL CONCEPT commercialise des accessoires destinés principalement à la compétition automobile et restauration/préparation de véhicules sportifs d'époque

www.decl-concept.com

I also got exhaust from them

 

[JdeW]

6 MOT's that's good to read.
And radiator issues yes I've had that inthe old days as well. The original radiators are prone to malfunction after 200k kilometers or so because they are poorly fabricated.
I always install a solid brass one or do as @Domsky and purchase a race/rally type radiator

 

[petak]

Tx Domsky!

Jdew...This one have survived 250tkm so must be happy with it! Already have another one i have bought at some warehouse clearance for 15€ but is with plastic sides.
Will see with local craftsman if he could make sides and weld them to my old radiator.