Sunday, well - it was a bit of a lazy day.. I organised my toolbox and I cleaned the workshop
I also did some smal thingies:
-sandblasting & painting the supportbracket for the carburator
-cleaning the front innerwing. Those were swedisch, so i had a 1 cm thick protection layer on it. Took me 2 hours to clean! (one more to go...)
-some 'pre-assembling' on the cilinderhead
This week is my last week of the summerholiday, dammit...
Ha ha I know that feeling. Getting some quality time in the garage with your R4 is difficult! There is ALWAYS something or somebody determined to shorten your time
Today I have been working on the steering mechanism. I find the cause why rotating was so hard.
This afternoon I went to another engineshop. What a difference! I was helped very friendly and the mechanic also checked the pistons & rings. Worn out to the bone.. He will polish the bearing areas (don't know correct word) on the crankshaft (it has some tiny scratches) and he will measure them so I can order the right bearings.
Funny, he was restoring a Mustung '67 and the owner of the company a 4CV. We had a pleasant talk!
Question:
I placed the front shock absorbers, is it correct I can't bolt them on the top due to the unloaded chassis? I'm not sure if the height is correct now.. Any advice? I didn't measure the distance from ground to floor when only the chassis was left... Lesson learned..
Harder to fit shocks as ther is no weight to stop the body lifting as you put a jack under lower arm
Assuming torsion bars refitted as original some helpers sitting on front of chassis wiil let you get top.nut in place
Don't worry about height until whole car all back together
Looking at steering bearing is the pinion shaft ok ?
Think it was discussed recently about how far to press sprocket on as there needs to be a small amount of end float
Hopefully your supplier will swap piston for correct type
Thought the engine code would identify them
I've got 3 with the 14 mm pin same as dauphine
Yes, you're correct Mr Reno. The end float between the back of the sprocket and the oval plate that holds the cam in place is between 0,06mm and 0,14mm
I have some updates to share. The engine work is a very slow progress. I brought the liners & pistons to an engineshop for installment on the conrods. Unfortunately thay made a mistake with one piston, aaargh. I brought it back so they attach it the correct way.
Hello Jurjenz your radiator looks like new again, but have you had it pressure tested or perhaps filled it with water to check for leaks? I spent a few hours cleaning mine and only after I fitted it did I discover that it leaked badly. So I ended up buying a new one.
The blockage in the little tube on your manifold is oil from the fumes from your rocker cover. If it stayed blocked, then the fumes would be sucked into the top of your carburetor and cause an oily mess inside. There should be a restrictor pipe in the rubber hose that leads to that little pipe. The restrictor has a 1,30mm hole in it to let the fumes through.
My engine actually ran better when the pipe was blocked, so I made my own restrictor with a 1,00mm hole in it and it now runs better.
Jurjenz this is fabulous work thanks for sharing with us. I found the forum a great way to keep my motivation up.
Keeping the workshop tidy helps too. ( not something I would be good at normally )
I did not test the radiator. I presume it has has no leaks because when I drained the cooling system clean water came out. The engine had not run for two years. So I hope it is still good!