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Yellow R4
 
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What have I done! (R4 GTL)

Thank you Azazello and Angel. This pattex is similar to bostik. It is contact glue

Need to be applied on both sides (when gluing rubber) in tin layer, let to dry little bit and then connect with pressure for at least 30 min.
Curing time is 24 hours.

So i need method to keep rubber pressed to doors for 24 hours. Believe that masking tape will be good.

I would like to avoid removing doors from car. Had big job aligning them.
 
I did the job with the door still on the car with the help of my dad, without any trick to keep the gasket in place: the glue was sufficent, and the door closed gave the pressure needed to cure overnight...
 
Happy New Year to you Petak! Just found your post showing your amazing new wheels .....Roll on the New Year and lots of fun cool motoring in your fantastic R4:clapping:
 
Smart move Azazello!

Thank you JonathanT, wheels are cherry on top of my cream cake.

All the best to all of you in new year, my dear "brothers in cars" :D :waving:
 
Finally after 5 days of try and error system i have managed to level up my R4.

Took me 5 times to disassembled and assembled front torsion bars....rears i did not touched.
Very helpful was this two topics from this forum
1.http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/how-to-set-front-ride-heights.5693/
Very thank you Angel for it

and
2. http://www.renault4.co.uk/forum/threads/ride-heights-again.3643/
With associated table
Thank you Malcolm and thank you all for you numbers.....really helped me

Aldo it is still not leveled as factory prescribe it i will left it haw it is for now.

Believe that it will drop little bit in few next days after ride on roads start.

Front end is lower than factory is asking.
left side
H1 = 256mm
H2 = 180mm
H = -76mm (35mm lower than it should be)
right side
H1 = 256mm
H2 = 185mm
H = -71mm (30mm lower that it should be)

As it is my right side is higher than left for 5 mm (as i am driving right hand drive car :D)

Rear end is higher than it should be
left side
H4 = 256mm
H5 = 425mm
H = 169mm (42mm higher than it should be)
right side
H4 = 256mm
H5 = 432mm
H = 176mm (49mm higher that it should be)

Also have measured height from ground to the wheel arches according to this picture

Renault-4-GTL-729x486-015643a8cab6ab31.jpg

left side
A = 85mm
B = 615mm
C = 610mm

right side
A = 90mm
B = 620mm
C = 620mm

I did not aim perfect angle to the ground so one or two mm are error that everybody here must be aware.

I know that it can be done better (leveling).

For better job i need to make new tool as one that i am using now is made out of soft metal and hole that is getting on rear bracket is eaten down, and when i start to twist it to align holes to crossmember after some time it start to rotate inside of bracket.
It even fell down from bracket (turned over nut on bracket) one time while i was trying to lift left side.
Bar was so stiff at the end and i could not reach hols on crossmember.

Until i made stronger tool will height of the car will stay as it is.

Today job is to align wheels and next week hope to end up with documents, license plates and to drive it on road finally.

Last six mounts was terrible for my project as i could not find time to lift car up.
Even now i have stolen five days from job and family to do it, ass i could not look it like that in front of house.


Thank you for reading!

P.S. For all of you who will read this post i have one request (kindly asking :ashamed: ) . Can you measure distances A, B and C on left and right side and post it here or send me PM.
 
Few pictures from two days ago.

Car is at my friends garage for leveling, and i am using space for some other job that need to be done.

Preparation for gluing rubber on doors with Azazello's idea. Masking tape to hold rubber in place until is applied all around the doors

Boot door
20160127_181752.jpg

rear door
20160127_181814.jpg

rubber with adhesive (PATTEX TOTAL https://www.google.hr/search?q=PATTEX+TOTAL&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjOuarRntHKAhUGBywKHSOdA0oQsAQIJg&biw=1920&bih=984#imgrc=Wfe5Jcg9lka_qM:)
20160127_181801.jpg

Adhesive work fine. Applied in tin layer and left to cure for 10-15min (or more - depending on air temperature). Tested with finger. If it start to stretch as chewing gum than it is time to put it on door. If it is till moist than left it little bit more.

Ii must say that it is much harder to close doors now that thicker rubbers are on doors.
Hope it will settle after few days.

Front height
20160127_181826.jpg

rear height
20160127_181838.jpg

Have problem with my left brake caliper. Bleeding screw can not be tighten enough so it is constantly leaking brake fluid. Can not tell why it is.

will try to change bleeding screw and hope that will sort problem.
If not i need to change whole caliper.

I have another but do not know state of it. It is lying out on donor car for few years now.
 
Nice thread. This is exactly what I want to do to mine. Thank you petak
Next step for me is to find out which was the best year of the gtl, so I can buy another one.I think the 80s models had less problems and more HP., 45 I think.
Nice question to veterans..
 
Thank you Fernando!

I have never seen 45 hp model. heard about them and saw few on youtube but that model never came to Yugoslavia.

Believe that was Spanish model.

Would like to know more about it. What engine was put inside? Bigger cc? Or something else was done on 1.1 engine to get that HP?

If you are searching for GTL only i would look one from 84 to the end of production
 
I don't know much about it.Once some one told me that they had a different carburetor. But I don't know
What more differences they have
 
As far as I know there are 45 Hp 1108 engines in the R5 and R6. They have a different camshaft and a bigger bore carburetor.
I have a 44 hp 956 engine in my F6 It also comes from a pre '85 R5
 
I think the camshaft is the same. The difference between the 34hp and 45hp engines is in the carburettor and inlet manifold. (Hennessey Hot Up Kit.)

The more powerful engine was also more economical. The R4 engine was strangled by the little carb.
 
Wile I was checking this link http://quatrelle.wikia.com/wiki/Hennessey_Hot-Up_Kit I come to read this."Make sure your car is properly converted to unleaded or you are using an additive." I won an 1991 gtl I don't remembered
I had done that conversation ever. Does my engine came already ready for unlead "converted" or do I have to convert him ? where can I found info about this .?
 
Car is again outside.
Door rubbers are in place.....needed to adjust door locks as rubber is big and could not close door properly. Done that. doors are closing little bit heavy at hte moment but beleive it will be better as time passes.

Things left to do
Adjust headlights properly

Check why my battery light on dash is glowing.
I was thinking that it is alternator faulty, but pull him down and send to electrical specialist. He check it and told me that everything is like new on alternator and is working as it should.
So something other is causing this problem.
Anyone, maybe, know what i should check?

And heavy rain was falling down last night, this morning found pool inside car.
Passenger side front. Big pool.
Windshield is not holding water outside good enough. Not glass but rubber around it. On bottom right corner.
Does anyone have any idea what can i do to stop water getting inside?

Thank you for reading!
 
Few things done.
Battery light is repaired. Connected + wiring to wrong pin on alternator. I have connected it to RPM pin Switched positions and everything is working nice.

Light adjusted in front of house. After that little adjusted on instrument at MOT station.

Only thing "wrong" with the car are tires that i need to attest before can be put in documentation.
Next week plan is to attest tires and to get license plates.
Ordered special one (numbers and letter) + square rear plate.
Insurance payed



Need little bit more adjusting on dizzy and carburetor (to high rpm's at idle)

But biggest nightmare is leaking water thru rubber on my windshield glass.
Do not know what to do with it? How to fix this leaking?

Thank you for reading
 
Hi Petak, did you use any type of adhesive or sealant? When I did a windscreen in my VW Beetle many years ago I had to use a polyurethane sealant which came in a tube.

It was a bit of a messy job and I found the best way, was to install the window and then afterwards lift the rubber edge and squirt the polyurethane in and then press the rubber down again. I did it on the glass side as well.

You'll have to clean the excess off immediately before it dries.

I never had any leaks and even 10 years later when someone smashed my window for the fun of it, I didn't see any rust, so I think it worked well.
 
I did not use any adhesive as R4 originally did not have any on windscreen.
But that is only option that i have...or to take of glass again and to do something. i Do not know what
 
I use a butyl sealant like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windscree...al-/370454244790?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 It doesn't set like the PU sealant so you can wipe excess off with a thinner or T-Cut and the seal is reusable if it ever needs to come out again.

It is applied after the windscreen is fitted. Poke the end of the nozzle under the lip of seal that contacts the body and then squirt adhesive in all the way around the screen.

My concern would be water currently trapped between the seal and the body because it can cause rust at the bottom of the screen. I would be tempted to remove the screen to dry it out before replacing and sealing.
 
While i am waiting for my plates to arrive i am working on small details around car

Bought adapters for H4 bulbs
20160227_172717.jpg

But they did not fit perfectly onto headlight.

So i had to make some adjustments
Taken down edge one and half mm so it can fit nicely to the bulb holder on headlight.

20160227_172524.jpg
20160227_172611.jpg

Now i can use both bulbs on my car.

But find out today that there is H5 bulb that is actually H4 with round base so that you can mount it on cars like R4
h5-zarulja-slika-20332550.jpg

will try all three bulbs to see which give better lightning on road

Also my old R4 wheels are coming home form powdercoating

before
PC240001.jpg
PC240006.jpg

After

image-6046c709f26d44962a37ddb2c1cd597dda5ae56679c731f26024a739520e2dcd-V.jpg
image-9cc2791bdbbae783b448c76bc243b90d8cde441c724528e5e8e46aea7f1c3e79-V.jpg
image-ceecfd5707e0f9a325d530faedae6dc153e951a1597251048b66d9a2ed53ea53-V.jpg

winter tires 135/80/13 will be fitted on them
 
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